1990 XJ.. Conked out
12-10-2015, 06:16 AM
#16
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Yep, I had seen them before, but to be honest, had forgotten they were there.
I played around with the beast yesterday and found a couple of lines that were not correctly connected, so I knocked that out.
It still idled rough as hell, so I did another check of the MAP line, and sure enough, it was cracked.
I changed that out, plugged it in, and she immediately dropped back into her normal idle.
The only problem left (I think) is the 4WD light on the dash isn't illuminating when I put it in 4WD.
Off the top of your head, do you know where the switch is that lights that puppy?
I didn't get a chance to test the 4WD, but I'm pretty sure it's engaging.
I played around with the beast yesterday and found a couple of lines that were not correctly connected, so I knocked that out.
It still idled rough as hell, so I did another check of the MAP line, and sure enough, it was cracked.
I changed that out, plugged it in, and she immediately dropped back into her normal idle.
The only problem left (I think) is the 4WD light on the dash isn't illuminating when I put it in 4WD.
Off the top of your head, do you know where the switch is that lights that puppy?
I didn't get a chance to test the 4WD, but I'm pretty sure it's engaging.
Last edited by freegdr; 12-10-2015 at 06:20 AM.
12-10-2015, 07:00 AM
#17
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
12-10-2015, 03:03 PM
#18
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Mine has a rubber "block" with two of the three vacuum lines that go to my "disco", on the right front axle. Now that I have a zip-tie (loosely) holding it on, it's been fine for years.
Clever design that. It will "shunt" vacuum to the 4 WD light switch only after the sleeve has moved over connecting the axle. That's why it has three lines.....
Clever design that. It will "shunt" vacuum to the 4 WD light switch only after the sleeve has moved over connecting the axle. That's why it has three lines.....
12-10-2015, 07:08 PM
#19
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Mine has a rubber "block" with two of the three vacuum lines that go to my "disco", on the right front axle. Now that I have a zip-tie (loosely) holding it on, it's been fine for years.
Clever design that. It will "shunt" vacuum to the 4 WD light switch only after the sleeve has moved over connecting the axle. That's why it has three lines.....
Clever design that. It will "shunt" vacuum to the 4 WD light switch only after the sleeve has moved over connecting the axle. That's why it has three lines.....
12-10-2015, 08:45 PM
#20
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
It's not all that difficult to ditch either get the shafts from a 97+ from the jy and install them. It's a strength upgrade as well.
12-10-2015, 09:22 PM
#21
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Wonder if it bothers Pete that I'm happy with mine, always have been since 2002. Other users also appreciate not having there stuff spinning for no reason as well. The front drive-line and into the TC spinning pointlessly is why it's there. A whole lot of stuff wears 1/2 or less with the disco. (which was eliminated by Chrysler in 91). Now they are selling more parts, and saving $ in manufacture. Granted the re-done fork was needed, (one broke in my 84), but with the new fork and the vacuum lines held on it seems to work fine. If I were to "sell" the mod for some valid reason, I'd include a way to divert vacuum to the 4WD switch/light . I only use 4WD when I need it, I don't intentionally get stuck....
Btw, the mod might not help with the old fork.
12-10-2015, 10:32 PM
#22
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Wonder if it bothers Pete that I'm happy with mine, always have been since 2002. Other users also appreciate not having there stuff spinning for no reason as well. The front drive-line and into the TC spinning pointlessly is why it's there. A whole lot of stuff wears 1/2 or less with the disco. (which was eliminated by Chrysler in 91). Now they are selling more parts, and saving $ in manufacture. Granted the re-done fork was needed, (one broke in my 84), but with the new fork and the vacuum lines held on it seems to work fine. If I were to "sell" the mod for some valid reason, I'd include a way to divert vacuum to the 4WD switch/light . I only use 4WD when I need it, I don't intentionally get stuck....
Btw, the mod might not help with the old fork.
12-11-2015, 02:28 PM
#23
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Couldn't a guy run one of the lines from the vacuum switch on the TC to the blue 4 WD light switch there on the right fender by the expansion bottle?
12-11-2015, 05:04 PM
#24
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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why? Cause they can't see where the lever is?
12-11-2015, 08:16 PM
#25
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Year: 90,84
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Well.... why not? I my POS 242, no lights work. Used 4wd one stormy night to come home and didn't find I was still in part time till later the next day. The light is not a bad thing to have, a no brainer there. Thinking of adding an oil idiot light as well. It leaks and I don't normally watch the oil pressure gauge while I'm driving.
Btw, that 242..."full time" is just neutral in that new white 90. No mater how I shift it there, if it's on the green full time, it's in neutral.
I need to do some "knoggen poken" There is some chance someone put a 231 in there, and left the 242 shiftier.....Or some gear in there is toast?
Btw, that 242..."full time" is just neutral in that new white 90. No mater how I shift it there, if it's on the green full time, it's in neutral.
I need to do some "knoggen poken" There is some chance someone put a 231 in there, and left the 242 shiftier.....Or some gear in there is toast?
12-12-2015, 09:29 AM
#26
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Year: 1990
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Well.... why not? I my POS 242, no lights work. Used 4wd one stormy night to come home and didn't find I was still in part time till later the next day. The light is not a bad thing to have, a no brainer there. Thinking of adding an oil idiot light as well. It leaks and I don't normally watch the oil pressure gauge while I'm driving.
Btw, that 242..."full time" is just neutral in that new white 90. No mater how I shift it there, if it's on the green full time, it's in neutral.
I need to do some "knoggen poken" There is some chance someone put a 231 in there, and left the 242 shiftier.....Or some gear in there is toast?
Btw, that 242..."full time" is just neutral in that new white 90. No mater how I shift it there, if it's on the green full time, it's in neutral.
I need to do some "knoggen poken" There is some chance someone put a 231 in there, and left the 242 shiftier.....Or some gear in there is toast?
12-13-2015, 08:20 PM
#27
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Doesn't matter a nit whether I shift it on the fly, parked, or any other way. If My TC lever is on the green "full time" position, it's in neutral. Like I mentioned, it may have a 231 in it....Short of pulling the FILLER plug and having it flood out from there, I don't know much about the TC in my "new" White 90. It has a 242 bezel, and no lights work. Does 4wd on the others.
A question for any who might understand the innards of a 242 is, does "full time" use a different gear, (in the TC)? Second question, short of the bezel or reading the tag, is there something easy to see to differentiate the 231 from the 242?
A question for any who might understand the innards of a 242 is, does "full time" use a different gear, (in the TC)? Second question, short of the bezel or reading the tag, is there something easy to see to differentiate the 231 from the 242?
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-13-2015 at 08:48 PM.
12-13-2015, 08:59 PM
#28
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Doesn't matter a nit whether I shift it on the fly, parked, or any other way. If My TC lever is on the green "full time" position, it's in neutral. Like I mentioned, it may have a 231 in it....Short of pulling the FILLER plug and having it flood out from there, I don't know much about the TC in my "new" White 90. It has a 242 bezel, and no lights work. Does 4wd on the others.
A question for any who might understand the innards of a 242 is, does "full time" use a different gear, (in the TC)? Second question, short of the bezel or reading the tag, is there something easy to see to differentiate the 231 from the 242?
A question for any who might understand the innards of a 242 is, does "full time" use a different gear, (in the TC)? Second question, short of the bezel or reading the tag, is there something easy to see to differentiate the 231 from the 242?
Do this after verifying the engine mounts, trans mount, and shifter bushings are in good shape.
12-13-2015, 09:12 PM
#29
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 150 L4
After reading a bit from Novak Adapt that there's a difference from the D30 disconnect NP 231's and the rest have in sector gate. That the neutral position doesn't disengage the axles from each other and the vacuum disconnect creates a neutral in the front axle by disengaging it.
My NP 231 is alright and I have no need to tear down a functioning unit to just upgrade the sector gate. I just R&R the vacuum disconnect on my 87 and it works just as it should. Before it would take a while before it would disconnect and ended up staying engaged in 2-Hi and grenaded my front driveshaft to the point it was no longer serviceable.
The 4WD light still turns on and off almost instantly just as the axle is changed modes. The new vacuum disconnect wasn't expensive at all and quick to replace. All of the hosing on mine is intact and holding vacuum.
My NP 231 is alright and I have no need to tear down a functioning unit to just upgrade the sector gate. I just R&R the vacuum disconnect on my 87 and it works just as it should. Before it would take a while before it would disconnect and ended up staying engaged in 2-Hi and grenaded my front driveshaft to the point it was no longer serviceable.
The 4WD light still turns on and off almost instantly just as the axle is changed modes. The new vacuum disconnect wasn't expensive at all and quick to replace. All of the hosing on mine is intact and holding vacuum.
12-13-2015, 10:48 PM
#30
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Year: 90,84
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Neat Cadha13.
Well, I guess nothing is "wrong" with mine. It seems the 242 it had fried, for some reason, and a PO put a 231 in it.
Pete, in the vid he does not position the TC link into 4 low.
Well, I guess nothing is "wrong" with mine. It seems the 242 it had fried, for some reason, and a PO put a 231 in it.
Pete, in the vid he does not position the TC link into 4 low.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 12-13-2015 at 10:58 PM.