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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Yeah, I thought I felt lucky but I was wrong... lol... got a magnetic flex rod and got it down in there but it didn't come out. Going to take the face plate off tomorrow and pray its right there. Got the sensor off though so that's progress.. God Bless my neighbor, he volunteered to help me check the spark and here we are... But I know my jeep is going to feel so much better when this is done... lol.. She's been a tough old girl up to this point, she deserves some TLC
Don't forget the cable to the starter is hot so disconnect the battery if you have to pull the starter (I think bolts will fit through that little space but not sockets-- guess we'll find out). You may have to bend the inspection plate a little to yank it out if you don't pull the starter (just something to consider if you're wondering why something that you think SHOULD happen, but doesn't).
At the least, inspect the flexplate for cracks and retighten the bolts. The "correct" way is
This is one of the places where you really should use a torque wrench. To prevent the engine from turning hold that bolt in the harmonic balancer with a socket and breaker bar.
just changed out the CPS and still have no start. already had gotten the socket out. just keeps cranking, but no start. Any suggestions to anything else I should look out for?
I assume you replaced the battery to block ground wire, there are other ground wires. You might double check that you put back all 4 wires back on that ground stud on the block. Sounds like your block stud is solid, but you could double check the stud on the motor block and make sure its not loose. I reinstalled that stud with blue loctite because it would come loose over time.
Just so you don't think your the only one pulling your hair out. I just had 2 parts go bad at the same time unrelated, alternator and idler pulley bearing. Alternator was whining and not charging, replaced it and the bad bearing whine was still there. Spent half a day deciding between ac compressor or idler pulley, $8 bearing sure sucked the day away.
Also #4 looks good. Shoot the parts cannon sparingly (although if CPS had bare wires that was probably a good move)(but it could have been tested beforehand)(and then just use electrical tape if it passed)(cause I am "frugal")("cheap").
Those diagnostic connectors are for a tool probably no one has anymore (well, one guy anyway).
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And I am that one guy . Well besides Cruiser anyways, he probably has the original DRB something something whatever they called it. A snap on mt2500 with a jeep 1 connector is what is needed, the Solaris might work if the connector fits the communication wire. There is a guy that made a monitoring device he sells but it is live data only too. Having said that, it is not any help in a no start situation, live data only, no ability to throw codes from a bad sensor. Renix is even pre OBD1. I believe 91 to 95 is considered OBD1. We renix guys and gals have to go old school and test with a multimeter.
To OP, i should mention you can test to see if the injectors are firing fuel a few different ways so you eliminate the fuel as a problem. You can use a stethoscope or piece of vacuum hose held to your ear on each injector and listen for a click at each firing. You can pull a spark plug and see if its wet with fuel. You can buy a noid light, it plugs into injector and then plugs into injector wire. It will light up at each pulse.
A little more background on the jeep; She's an old junkyard gem I got 6yrs ago when it was all I could get. I knew she'd been road hard and put up greasy..lol.. but the engine was smooth, not ticks are roughness. First thing I had to do was have the cooling system checked, the guy completely bypassed the holding tank on my closed system. Then I had to do tires, breaks and suspension, that's all done, all new plug wires, plugs, rotor and cap last year. New flue pump and filter last month. So now I get to play with the wiring. I'm going to spend the day today cleaning the grease off everything I can so I can get a better look then I'll go back over the ground wires first. Sure am glad its summertime while I'm having to do this. I'm going to start taking pictures of the process now, I'll post as I go. Thanks all
OMG OMG!!!! She's running!!!!! she's rough but she's running!!!! I found the missing ground wires!!!! I've got a vacuum hose that got broken in the process of replacing the crankshaft sensor but that's no big deal... Thank you all for your help and expertise.!!
So here she is. You can see what shape the connectors are. I think it still has the original head gasket on it and its so saturated oil is oozing out there. I don't use a lot of oil, I get an oil change about every 1500 miles, and am not more then 1/2 a quart low so its just barely a drip after the engine has been running for a few hrs. You can see how rotted the connectors on the fuel rail are so those will be coming up soon. She's a project, but she has been so faithful to me these past 6 yrs, I know she's worth every penny and hour I spend on her. 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 New cap and wires rot on fuel rail connectors 1990 Jeep Cherokee My "Junkyard Gem"
OMG OMG!!!! She's running!!!!! she's rough but she's running!!!! I found the missing ground wires!!!! I've got a vacuum hose that got broken in the process of replacing the crankshaft sensor but that's no big deal... Thank you all for your help and expertise.!!
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together?
06-16-2019, 09:16 PM
. Well besides Cruiser anyways, he probably has the original DRB something something whatever they called it. A snap on mt2500 with a jeep 1 connector is what is needed, the Solaris might work if the connector fits the communication wire. There is a guy that made a monitoring device he sells but it is live data only too. Having said that, it is not any help in a no start situation, live data only, no ability to throw codes from a bad sensor. Renix is even pre OBD1. I believe 91 to 95 is considered OBD1. We renix guys and gals have to go old school and test with a multimeter.
