If it was me....

Get a loaner fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure at rail.

Allow you to test pump and regulator and perform leak down test.

30 psi without regulator and 30 with if memory serves. Only have to remove vacuum hose from regulator to check.

 

Yes, there's a history that's what started the fuel pump and filter replacement, but if I've got good pressure in my fuel rail there's no vacuum. I got an inline spark checker and my plug socket and multimeter, I'm waiting for my neighbor to come turn the key for me to check spark. I'll let you know what I find... Thanks for the help.

 

I guess I'll just buy all new relays, it needs to be done anyway..

 

Did you have spark?
I don't think that it is likely, but unplug and replug the wire from the coil to the distributor's cap. If you brushed against that while feeding the negative cable to the block, then it could have uncoupled and prevent sparking.

I like to pour a teaspoon of gasoline into each cylinder thru the spark plug holes to test for spark. Sometimes it is very easy to do like on our older Cherokees.

Did you find that the positive lead from the battery didn't need changing also? I've found that positive corrodes before negative corrodes in my experience.

 

Well, replaced the coil, no spark at distributor, tracked back to the crankshaft position sensor, this had about 3" of bare wire so I got a new sensor and went after it, I now have a socket in the bellhousing and I'm screwed... Picture a 5'4" 120lb woman kicking and screaming... ughhh.

 

replaced the relays, put in new coil, tracked it back to crankshaft position sensor, about 3" of bare wire there so I got a new sensor and went after it, I now have a socket in my belhousing…. I don't know what I'm going to do now..

 

Pull the inspection plate off the front of the bell housing. While there may not be enough room to pull the socket out (depending on where it is right now), you may be able to see it and direct a string, wire, magnet. etc. to get a hold of it and pull it back out of the top.

 

If you can't see it, turn the engine over and it should drop into a more favorable position.

 

Or pull the starter off which will give you a larger escape route.

 

Also please note that I don't write multiple posts instead of a single, complete post just to get my post count up to get to the next level.

 

With a socket on the bolt of the harmonic balancer. If that's too hard pull the plugs out to relieve compression and try again.

 

After you get the socket out don't put the inspection plate back. This will be a good time to check the flexplate condition and flexplate bolts (not like now, but after you get the important stuff done).

 

LOL... I have no idea what you are talking about when you speak of post points, and I just became active on here so I didn't realize that each reply wasn't direct to person, just noticed that when I came back to check if anyone responded. I'm taking the day off and will start with the magnet to try and retrieve the socket then work from there. Glad this is happening in the summer so I'm not dealing with nasty weather while I'm doing this. God Bless and Happy Father's Day to all of you

 

You need to pull the inspection plate first. If you drop the magnet down there blindly it will just stick to the flywheel or flexplate. The inspection plate is only 4 bolts and will go quick and the socket may just be sitting right there. I believe it's too big to get by the flywheel but should be able to come out if you pull the starter. It's not a deep socket is it? IMO pulling it out from the top will only work if you can hook up your gimmick to the socket from down below (like the magnet should be between 2 strings so 2 people can move it up and down, or thread some twine through the socket -- the use of any retrieval gimmick will probably require 2 people).

If you can't get a gimmick to work in a couple of tries, it's probably best to pull the starter and pull it out that way.

 

OTOH, maybe it's sitting right there on top. Do you feel lucky?