Not sure what I need to “jump” exactly to test the clutch. I have these two wires that join into one a little back. I pulled off the end cap for I believe the low pressure side, not entirely sure, but its the one higher up to the right. There was no pressure or anything, I don’t know if that is normal or not. I bought the Jeep from a slight accident and the radiator, (now replaced) ac condenser, and transmission cooler, were all bent up slightly. Maybe the condenser developed a leak from the accident and just needs replacing and filling? I have no way of pressure testing it. And I need a little more help jumping the clutch the proper way.

 

I've had my '94 XJ since new and have replaced the AC compressor twice over the years. If yours is original and has more than 150,000 miles on it, then it's likely toast. You can see if the clutch engages when it's on, and if not, can shoot a can of R134 in there just to see if clutch engages. If it does, see if it blows cold. Will likely leak back out, but may take just a day to leak out, or may take longer to leak out and work ok til it leaks out. I have replaced just the compressor on mine and got several years of service out of the new compressor (albeit, most replacements are rebuilt Chinese junk, so don't expect too much). I have also replaced other AC parts in more recent years. I have a set of cheap AC gauges and a cheap vacuum machine.

 

I’m the second owner if this Cherokee, and it only has 94xxx miles on the odometer. I’m beginning to wonder if a can of r134a to pressure test and test the clutch wouldnt be a bad idea, maybe the culprit is just the condenser being warped from the accident. I have to finish getting it to pass smog, high o2, and then I can begin the pressure testing unless someone has a better idea before then.

 

That makes sense, and I've done just that on several used vehicles I've bought over the years, just shot a can in there to see what happens. I don't live in an area that requires smog/emissions testing any longer, but used to, and had to replace catalytic converter and gas cap once around 100,000 miles to pass the test. I recently replaced the exhaust manifold as it was cracked and leaking exhaust and noisy (a very common fail). Was easier than I thought to do, and now purrs like a kitten.

 

Is it true the r134a can ruin the internals of my compressor? Of course I want to find the leak but I also want to keep my compressor as it is…

 

This may ot be too complicated. If it is ice cold and then warm that is usually a symptom of low refrigerant. What is happening is that it is litterally ick cold and is pulling moisture out of the air ad then freezing it in the coil. If that is the case a little refrigerant will do the trick.