CF Veteran
Quote:
If u installed a '91+ rad, u installed the open system, not ditched it.
I highly advise investing 150 bucks or so and making life easier on ya.
I think there are a few detailed posts here telling your what to do, how to do it and what parts are needed.
I did not do the entire upgrade and only bought the new 91-up radiator ($110) and got a overflow bottle and hose from the bone yard ($10) If ya call a parts store just ask for a 1991 and up radiator. (ask if it comes with a cap and if not, you'll have to buy one)
What would the entire upgrade be?.....other than the rad, the bottle, the rad cap and hose?
I also wired my electric cooling fan to a under dash toggle switch ($3) and can flick it on whenever she gets a bit too hot. Some times on very hot days sitting in traffic I have to use it but that's rare. Just make sure you wire up the fan so that when you shut the key off it ain't still running.
IMO that sensor to kick on the fan comes on way too damn late. I also run a 170 t-stat instead of a 190.
Also, the 4.0 likes to air lock easily. Make sure you bleed her out.
Unless one knows they will be intentionally driving thru really high water, why mess with success, just let the computer turn the fan on/off. Where do u guys get those 170 and 190 t-stats? I'm not sure about that "4.0L likes to air lock easily" statement.......the XJ cooling system is as easy a cooling system to "bleed" air from as I've seen and I do believe the closed system will "bleed" air sooner than the open system will. The closed cooling system will "bleed" air the moment the motor starts. The open cooling system won't "bleed" air until the rad cap releases it and that won't happen until the cooling system reaches +/-16 psi.
Again, the open system will cool zero, zip, nada better than the closed system. Any new/clean radiator will cool better than a old/crudded up radiator. It's that simple.Originally Posted by mister k
When I first bought my 89 Jeep Cherokee I had similar probs and I monkeyed around with it to no ends. I finally did the 91 and newer upgrade and ditched that open system piece of crap set-up. If u installed a '91+ rad, u installed the open system, not ditched it.
I highly advise investing 150 bucks or so and making life easier on ya.
I think there are a few detailed posts here telling your what to do, how to do it and what parts are needed.
I did not do the entire upgrade and only bought the new 91-up radiator ($110) and got a overflow bottle and hose from the bone yard ($10) If ya call a parts store just ask for a 1991 and up radiator. (ask if it comes with a cap and if not, you'll have to buy one)
What would the entire upgrade be?.....other than the rad, the bottle, the rad cap and hose?
I also wired my electric cooling fan to a under dash toggle switch ($3) and can flick it on whenever she gets a bit too hot. Some times on very hot days sitting in traffic I have to use it but that's rare. Just make sure you wire up the fan so that when you shut the key off it ain't still running.
IMO that sensor to kick on the fan comes on way too damn late. I also run a 170 t-stat instead of a 190.
Also, the 4.0 likes to air lock easily. Make sure you bleed her out.
Unless one knows they will be intentionally driving thru really high water, why mess with success, just let the computer turn the fan on/off. Where do u guys get those 170 and 190 t-stats? I'm not sure about that "4.0L likes to air lock easily" statement.......the XJ cooling system is as easy a cooling system to "bleed" air from as I've seen and I do believe the closed system will "bleed" air sooner than the open system will. The closed cooling system will "bleed" air the moment the motor starts. The open cooling system won't "bleed" air until the rad cap releases it and that won't happen until the cooling system reaches +/-16 psi.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Most likely because aux fan cam on .Originally Posted by CJO
Awesome well at least i know it is possible and fairly easy. Again I was hoping that would be a last resort and now its looking like something I'll be changing anyways (hopefully down the line I'm very limited on money this month). everyone seems really happy after the swap. As for your question the AC may or may not be making it run cooler, kicking the heat on brought it down a little no surprise there.
Quote:
Be very cautious/careful and follow those instructions carefully IF u convert from a closed to open cooling system. With the open system, how the rad cap functions AND how the bottle fills/empties is critical.
A open system will not cool any better than a closed system.
Both raditaors cool equaly but if your gonna buy one why not upgrade to eliminate the troublesome pressure bottle and cap.Originally Posted by djb383
That pic is very toasty but 6.25 degrees shy of 241.25 degrees......the overheat red zone.Be very cautious/careful and follow those instructions carefully IF u convert from a closed to open cooling system. With the open system, how the rad cap functions AND how the bottle fills/empties is critical.
A open system will not cool any better than a closed system.
CF Veteran
Quote:
I agree with u 1000%, a leaky bottle/cap is not good......it just seems that a lot of misinformed folks bash the closed system in "overheating threads" rather than "leaky bottle/cap threads". Gotta be very careful when doing the conversion because as u know, there's a little more to it than just dropping in a '91 up rad.Originally Posted by freegdr
.......Both raditaors cool equaly but if your gonna buy one why not upgrade to eliminate the troublesome pressure bottle and cap.
Presuming the XJ closed system rad is good/clean/etc., to me, it would be better, maybe easier, to replace the bottle and cap or southern engineer/adapt a bottle/cap from some other make/model vehicle. Of the 4 family vehicles I maintain (not XJs), 2 of them ('06 Saturn and '09 Toyota) have closed cooling systems and to be honest with u, I prefer the closed system over the open system........but I may not say that if I start having problems with leaky bottle/caps and hopefully I won't.
2 things I really like about a closed system are, 1. u can remove the cap (slowly) on a hot motor and not get scalded by hot coolant blowing everywhere (as long as there's air between the coolant level in the bottle and the cap) and 2. if u see coolant in the bottle (motor hot or cold) u know the cooling system/rad is full to the top of coolant.
With a open cooling system, the only way u can be positive the rad is full is by removing the rad cap and the motor better be COLD when removing the rad cap.
Visible coolant level in a closed system bottle is always reliable, regarding how full the rad is. Visible coolant level in a open system bottle is far from reliable, regarding how full the rad is......u gotta remove the rad cap (motor cold) to check.
Bottom line is, if the rad ain't full to the top, chances of a overheat increase.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Presuming the XJ closed system rad is good/clean/etc., to me, it would be better, maybe easier, to replace the bottle and cap or southern engineer/adapt a bottle/cap from some other make/model vehicle. Of the 4 family vehicles I maintain (not XJs), 2 of them ('06 Saturn and '09 Toyota) have closed cooling systems and to be honest with u, I prefer the closed system over the open system........but I may not say that if I start having problems with leaky bottle/caps and hopefully I won't.
2 things I really like about a closed system are, 1. u can remove the cap (slowly) on a hot motor and not get scalded by hot coolant blowing everywhere (as long as there's air between the coolant level in the bottle and the cap) and 2. if u see coolant in the bottle (motor hot or cold) u know the cooling system/rad is full to the top of coolant.
With a open cooling system, the only way u can be positive the rad is full is by removing the rad cap and the motor better be COLD when removing the rad cap.
Visible coolant level in a closed system bottle is always reliable, regarding how full the rad is. Visible coolant level in a open system bottle is far from reliable, regarding how full the rad is......u gotta remove the rad cap (motor cold) to check.
Bottom line is, if the rad ain't full to the top, chances of a overheat increase.
Agreed I up graded mine having owned it 15 plus years I had bought my last bottle...lol...Originally Posted by djb383
I agree with u 1000%, a leaky bottle/cap is not good......it just seems that a lot of misinformed folks bash the closed system in "overheating threads" rather than "leaky bottle/cap threads". Presuming the XJ closed system rad is good/clean/etc., to me, it would be better, maybe easier, to replace the bottle and cap or southern engineer/adapt a bottle/cap from some other make/model vehicle. Of the 4 family vehicles I maintain (not XJs), 2 of them ('06 Saturn and '09 Toyota) have closed cooling systems and to be honest with u, I prefer the closed system over the open system........but I may not say that if I start having problems with leaky bottle/caps and hopefully I won't.
2 things I really like about a closed system are, 1. u can remove the cap (slowly) on a hot motor and not get scalded by hot coolant blowing everywhere (as long as there's air between the coolant level in the bottle and the cap) and 2. if u see coolant in the bottle (motor hot or cold) u know the cooling system/rad is full to the top of coolant.
With a open cooling system, the only way u can be positive the rad is full is by removing the rad cap and the motor better be COLD when removing the rad cap.
Visible coolant level in a closed system bottle is always reliable, regarding how full the rad is. Visible coolant level in a open system bottle is far from reliable, regarding how full the rad is......u gotta remove the rad cap (motor cold) to check.
Bottom line is, if the rad ain't full to the top, chances of a overheat increase.
Ok so after all the help you guys have given me I think I finally fixed it! Very last thing I changed was the coolant temp sender. I installed the (with light) sender first, didnt work. Pulled that out and put in a (with gauge) sender, seems obvious now but i didnt know. AND NOW THIS
No matter what I tried this was the hottest i could get it.
I think I solved my issue there but surely enough I got down under my jeep and noticed the undercarriage has lots of oil on it, I will be posting more questions shortly as soon as I can pinpoint my new issue a little more. For now its been a long hard day and I couldnt be happier, thanks again!
No matter what I tried this was the hottest i could get it.
I think I solved my issue there but surely enough I got down under my jeep and noticed the undercarriage has lots of oil on it, I will be posting more questions shortly as soon as I can pinpoint my new issue a little more. For now its been a long hard day and I couldnt be happier, thanks again!
CF Veteran
Quote:
No matter what I tried this was the hottest i could get it.
I think I solved my issue there but surely enough I got down under my jeep and noticed the undercarriage has lots of oil on it, I will be posting more questions shortly as soon as I can pinpoint my new issue a little more. For now its been a long hard day and I couldnt be happier, thanks again!
So what parts exactly did you in stall ? As fr oil leak clean motor with degreaser then keep a eye on it just remember liquids run dow not up . Good job on the fix Originally Posted by CJO
Ok so after all the help you guys have given me I think I finally fixed it! Very last thing I changed was the coolant temp sender. I installed the (with light) sender first, didnt work. Pulled that out and put in a (with gauge) sender, seems obvious now but i didnt know. AND NOW THISNo matter what I tried this was the hottest i could get it.
I think I solved my issue there but surely enough I got down under my jeep and noticed the undercarriage has lots of oil on it, I will be posting more questions shortly as soon as I can pinpoint my new issue a little more. For now its been a long hard day and I couldnt be happier, thanks again!
Quote:
Originally Posted by freegdr
So what parts exactly did you in stall ? As fr oil leak clean motor with degreaser then keep a eye on it just remember liquids run dow not up . Good job on the fix
The part that actually fixed my problem and i mean immediately was "Coolant Temp Sender (with gauge)" it WAS 24.99, NOT the one for 9.99 (with light)
Fix was quick and easy just had to let the engine cool and refill a little coolant that drained out (normal for changing this)
As for the oil I will clean her and take a picture I noticed something with my naked eye that does look right I'm sure I will get an ear full as soon as I can get the picture up I'll make a new thread for it watch for my name and thank you all so much again cant wait till I can actually start helping someone instead of ask ask ask!!!!!!
Seasoned Member
Having my oil leak fixed in the shop today was dripping oil down the back of the motor all over the tranny and exhaust at first thought rear main as everything else was checked and dident appear to leak.
Went to a garage and the guy climbed under it and noticed the oil pan was leaking and had a rust hole in it id bet on one of those rear main or oil pan leak.
you can check the oil filter where it screws in if you dont notice any wet oil around the oil filter adapter area then id say its not that.
A lot of ppl will say valve cover ect but what you don't realize is the back lower end of the motor just below the drain plug is where most of the Cherokee's oil drips from. so you could have some slight cancer on the oil pan and it could be seeping out and running all underneath the car down to the drain plug and while driving running off even farther dripping all over the exhaust and tranny.
These things are 20 something years old. So if you find out it could be the rear main might as well not waste time and just put in a brand new oil pan too with a one piece felpro gasket maybe even a high flow oil pump aswell.
You should get 300 thou out of the Cherokee no problem
Went to a garage and the guy climbed under it and noticed the oil pan was leaking and had a rust hole in it id bet on one of those rear main or oil pan leak.
you can check the oil filter where it screws in if you dont notice any wet oil around the oil filter adapter area then id say its not that.
A lot of ppl will say valve cover ect but what you don't realize is the back lower end of the motor just below the drain plug is where most of the Cherokee's oil drips from. so you could have some slight cancer on the oil pan and it could be seeping out and running all underneath the car down to the drain plug and while driving running off even farther dripping all over the exhaust and tranny.
These things are 20 something years old. So if you find out it could be the rear main might as well not waste time and just put in a brand new oil pan too with a one piece felpro gasket maybe even a high flow oil pump aswell.
You should get 300 thou out of the Cherokee no problem