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1988 4.0L 6-Cyclinder Injector Upgrade Question

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Old May 17, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by redrooster
How? You mean,take pics to show them? Please be more specific as I am a novice here, thanks!
Email this link to him suggesting he read the Tip numbers I specified in the earlier post.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...x-tips-153657/
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 10:05 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by redrooster
I have done #1 for sure – ground refreshing. I went to Jon www.kelleyswip.com and bought their grounding kit. My mechanic – Tim Sutter – is very meticulous about all things electrical. I had an electrical problem some years ago that 2 repair shops could not locate the source of – and he found it. He is famous for having built an entire electrical system for a ½-track – from scratch.
I don’t know what else under your categories have been done.

These are what I know:
-rebuilt the transmission
-every vacuum tube has been replaced
-the headlight bulbs have been upgraded to H2
-manual electrical fan switch installed (installed before AC was rebuilt)
-heavy duty clutch fan installed
-new 3-row radiator installed (I drive from California to Texas once a year, usually summer)
-2 water filters installed from jaguar (one to heater core, one to radiator); I clean out these filters regularly
-new overflow tank – the aluminum one that doesn’t explode!
-kill switch installed
-headliner and front seat recovered with near original materials
-new AL wheels
-Hesco hi-flow thermostat housing (more efficient water flow than stock)
-extra ignition switch installed
-steering column replaced (it broke!)
-4-wheel drive serviced and fully functional now
-tailgate cylinder replaced
-largest transmission cooler I could find installed
-extra serpentine belt kept in truck with necessary tools
-throttle body cleaned and the electronics on the TB were replaced
-some kind of upgrade to the either the CPS or TPS – my original shop found a “bulletin” in his hard copies from 1990 that addressed some issue – he had to cut into the harness to make the upgrade and I can’t remember what it was – I’m sure it’s on an invoice – which I have – just don’t want to locate just right now
-all water hoses replaced w/stainless clamps
After the injectors are installed, I am going to address a drifting issue. On my last trip to Texas, I noticed that the truck started drifting to the right and when I got home I have excessive tread wear on the right front tire. I had two shops – one was a racing shop (Roger Kraus) – try to fix it. The alignment was within spec when checked and I was told that it was probably either a slightly bent frame or the knuckles and associated suspension parts on the right front needed replacing (they could tell unless they pulled the suspension apart). My brother is a race car driver (SCAA etc.) who builds his own car, including suspensions. He talked with a fellow racer who has my exact model/year and he said to replace (least expensive route) the rear suspension parts, the ones supporting the leaf springs. So I bought those bushings and new bolts etc. (~100.00), all Mopar, and will have those installed and the car re-aligned (the shop uses lasers, front-to-back/center-to-center alignment).
Wow – that’s just off the top of my head but pretty much covers things. After the injectors and suspension, you would have a recommendation for the next thing (by priority) to address? I have to proceed slowly as I am on a fixed income. Thanks for reading.
Ok - yesterday I put the Volvo injectors in and yes!!! The Jeep runs solid. My old injectors had been completely rebuilt a few years ago but these 4-pintle ones make a difference in the smoothness of the running engine. I will post later (days) re any noticeable gas mileage increase. I also replaced the track bar and the left/right sway bars (the passenger side sway bar was severely worn, creating extra play in the horizontal movement of the right tire).

Thanks Cruiser54!

Next - the left balljoint is worn so I am going to replace both sides (I'll check on the control arms too), AND the right rear stabilizer is shot (almost no rubber left in there). Shocks are ok, no leaks. BUT - Cruiser, I like to go on road trips to Texas from California, and to Colorado.
-can you recommend a shock that will give me a stable, but more "passenger-car-like" ride?
-what would you suggest next from your tips (after I get the suspension stuff done)??

Thanks again Cruiser and everyone here.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 05:13 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by redrooster
Ok - yesterday I put the Volvo injectors in and yes!!! The Jeep runs solid. My old injectors had been completely rebuilt a few years ago but these 4-pintle ones make a difference in the smoothness of the running engine. I will post later (days) re any noticeable gas mileage increase. I also replaced the track bar and the left/right sway bars (the passenger side sway bar was severely worn, creating extra play in the horizontal movement of the right tire).

Thanks Cruiser54!

Next - the left balljoint is worn so I am going to replace both sides (I'll check on the control arms too), AND the right rear stabilizer is shot (almost no rubber left in there). Shocks are ok, no leaks. BUT - Cruiser, I like to go on road trips to Texas from California, and to Colorado.
-can you recommend a shock that will give me a stable, but more "passenger-car-like" ride?
-what would you suggest next from your tips (after I get the suspension stuff done)??

Thanks again Cruiser and everyone here.
Way to stick with it!!!
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 06:24 PM
  #34  
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I'm not cruiser but I would reccomend bilstein 4600 shocks. They are a bit softer than 5100 and actually available at factory height.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 02:14 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by toasterknight
I'm not cruiser but I would reccomend bilstein 4600 shocks. They are a bit softer than 5100 and actually available at factory height.
Fuuny, those are the ones that the Chat guy at Quadratec recommended also.
I get parts from here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/bilstei...-24010467.html ; they are the best price I can get with free shipping on 4. I'll get the right numbers.

BTW - yes, you are not Cruiser54, but your contribution helps (we can't all be Cruisers anyways).
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 10:37 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by redrooster
Fuuny, those are the ones that the Chat guy at Quadratec recommended also.
I get parts from here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/bilstei...-24010467.html ; they are the best price I can get with free shipping on 4. I'll get the right numbers.

BTW - yes, you are not Cruiser54, but your contribution helps (we can't all be Cruisers anyways).
We can try.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 10:56 AM
  #37  
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Default Old Injectors

What are my options for unloading my old injectors? Isn't there someone around here who rebuilds them or something? Or should I just chuck em? Thanks all.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 04:16 PM
  #38  
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After I discovered the 746 do indeed work well, I sold my 703's on ebay. I haven't bothered with the originals...suppose they could bring something as well, some folx like to stay stock.
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Old Sep 26, 2015 | 07:12 AM
  #39  
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I have presumed that with the injector upgrade and more efficient gas distribution, that subsequent smog tests would be ok if not "better". So NOW I ask the question I should have asked BEFORE I installed the new injectors: all else being equal and the same, what differences should I expect on a smog test with the new injectors over the stock injectors?
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Old Sep 26, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #40  
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Cruiser - regarding your C101 (#27): if the wires are hard-wired together (solder, shrink, etc.), will this cause a problem if I wanted to take the engine OUT for a rebuild, i.e., would I have to unsolder those wires to get enough wire slack for engine removal?

Also - on the CPS (CKS) mod where the hole is drilled out larger, how do you get a drill back there since it is so close to the firewall? And how do you prevent metal filings from going into that hole?

Thanks for everything.
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 04:12 PM
  #41  
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I found a great picture of the TCU for my vehicle:
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 04:30 PM
  #42  
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Default More things completed.

From the list, I had my mechanic do the trans plug refreshing; ICU/Coil contact refreshing; C101 connector refreshing - there was lots of "tar" in there; and finally the 10-pin connector for the front lighting system.

I gave the mechanic a can of air, cans of De-Oxit and De-Oxit Gold to use. It took him 2 hours to complete the cleaning as the C101 connectors were very dirty and the tar was hard to remove.

Looks like what is remaining on the list are the following:
-Checking sensor grounds
-Improve the instrument panel ground
-Oil filler cap mod
-TCU refresh

This has been expensive so far since I am not a DIY-er. I may not do all of these, but probably will swing the oil cap and TCU refresh.

The OP title of this thread was centered on the injectors so getting back to that, I have used a full tank of gas yet and may have to go through several tanks to see what my mileage is after installing the new injectors.

This has been an update . . .
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 05:37 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by redrooster
Cruiser - regarding your C101 (#27): if the wires are hard-wired together (solder, shrink, etc.), will this cause a problem if I wanted to take the engine OUT for a rebuild, i.e., would I have to unsolder those wires to get enough wire slack for engine removal?

Also - on the CPS (CKS) mod where the hole is drilled out larger, how do you get a drill back there since it is so close to the firewall? And how do you prevent metal filings from going into that hole?

Thanks for everything.
Eliminating the C101 has no negative effects or limits engine removal ever.

You remove the CPS and drill it in a vise.
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 11:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Eliminating the C101 has no negative effects or limits engine removal ever.

You remove the CPS and drill it in a vise.
OK - Thanks for the C101 clarification.

Having seen pics of the CPS, does the drilled, bigger hole in the upper bracket allow the electronics part of the CPS to be moved closer to the flywheel, i.e., it is now more flexible to be moved closer?
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 12:16 PM
  #45  
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The CPS bolt has a shoulder that fits snug in the hole in the CPS. By drilling the CPS hole bigger, that lets you mount the CPS a tad closer to the flywheel by pressing/holding it down as you install it. Nothing is really "flexible"....
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