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1987 wagoneer cranks but wont start

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Old 12-21-2021, 10:37 AM
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Default 1987 wagoneer cranks but wont start

Hi, last week I went to start the wagoneer and it started, then stumbled and died. This is not a daily driver and is occasionally driven, when not regularly driven it is started at least once a week. It has never been a problem to start until now. In the past I did cruisers tips 1-5,11,14 and a few others I went through 1-5 again when it wouldn't start, plus checked distributor cap and wire connections. I did not hear the fuel pump kick on when turning the key to start. I also pulled a spark plug and grounded it while my wife cranked the engine and there is no spark.

After reading through some posts, I figured the CPS was the next step as it had died randomly the last time it was driven. Another time the tack went to 0 while going 45mph-ish and then went back up, the jeep stumbled but kept running. So, after a few mix-ups the new CPS came yesterday. I replaced it (a job I hope to never have to do again). I know some of you have it down, but it was a couple hours, much swearing, and some bumps and bruises for me. Anyway, the new CPS is in, and fingers crossed I tried to start it. It didn't However I do hear the fuel pump kick for a second or two the first time I crank it. After that I'm assuming it senses enough fuel and I do not hear it on further cranks.

I am just wondering where to go next. Connections in the coil look good, I cleaned them per cruisers tip. Battery is charged. What else would cause a no spark condition.?

Also by chance does anyone know a mechanic in North central Florida who works on jeeps, particularly renix era ones. This may be out of my league. Usually when a vehicle has electrical issues it is dead to me. Not something I easily grasp.

Thanks, Mike
Old 12-21-2021, 12:42 PM
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If CPS is the crank sensor, it is possible that you didn't install it right, or it is faulty. It is also possible that the ignition coil is bad. Try getting the codes by turning the key to on (not start) and off about five times and see the check engine light flashing. Each flash adds one more, and a pause goes to the next digit.

Last edited by evil_goat; 12-21-2021 at 12:47 PM.
Old 12-21-2021, 04:06 PM
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The fuel pump runs for a few seconds at the initial key-on. It will then shutoff after a few seconds unless the engine computer thinks the engine is rotating. If you're not seeing the fuel pump kick in again when cranking, that points to a bad crank sensor or damaged wiring to the sensor. Inspect the wiring to the CPS and much it didn't get melted against the exhaust manifold. The aftermarket sensors have a high failure rate, so don't assume the new one is good.
Old 12-21-2021, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
The fuel pump runs for a few seconds at the initial key-on. It will then shutoff after a few seconds unless the engine computer thinks the engine is rotating. If you're not seeing the fuel pump kick in again when cranking, that points to a bad crank sensor or damaged wiring to the sensor. Inspect the wiring to the CPS and much it didn't get melted against the exhaust manifold. The aftermarket sensors have a high failure rate, so don't assume the new one is good.
I installed the new sensor and it still won't start so no melted wires. It looks visually fine although after reading on here about high failure rates it looks like that nasty job may need re-doing, I forgot to mention that I tested the old before removing and only showed .2 , I read it needs to be above .5. I haven't tested the new one yet but will when my wife is home to turn the key. On the new one I also drilled it out to 3/8ths as per cruisers tip so probably won't be able to return it. My bad lol,

Old 12-21-2021, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lawsoncl
The fuel pump runs for a few seconds at the initial key-on. It will then shutoff after a few seconds unless the engine computer thinks the engine is rotating. If you're not seeing the fuel pump kick in again when cranking, that points to a bad crank sensor or damaged wiring to the sensor. Inspect the wiring to the CPS and much it didn't get melted against the exhaust manifold. The aftermarket sensors have a high failure rate, so don't assume the new one is good.
I installed the new sensor and it still won't start so no melted wires. It looks visually fine although after reading on here about high failure rates it looks like that nasty job may need re-doing, I forgot to mention that I tested the old before removing and only showed .2, I read it needs to be above .5. I haven't tested the new one yet but will when my wife is home to turn the key. On the new one I also drilled it out to 3/8ths as per cruisers tip so probably won't be able to return it. My bad lol,


Old 12-22-2021, 06:04 AM
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Go to www.cruiser54.com and complete Tips 1 through 5 before doing anything else.
Old 12-22-2021, 07:26 AM
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Hey cruiser, so far, I have done tips 1-5,11,14,25,36 and 37. Most of these have been done over the past 3 years. I went through 1-5 again the other day to double check although on tip 1 I would like to upgrade to Paul's cables eventually. I am going to try tip 5 today to see if anything is loose. Actually I may run through them all again before I give up on the new crank sensor I installed. Also, I have done tip 4 (twice) but is there a way to test the coil? Don't think I'm getting spark to the distributor let alone the plugs. I'm kinda all thumbs at this.
Old 12-22-2021, 09:01 AM
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You have tested CPS output?

There is a test for the ICM/coil but I can't find it. Internet search?

Old 12-22-2021, 09:32 AM
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[QUOTE=cruiser54;3663575]You have tested CPS output ?


I did on the old one, only showed .2. I have not tested new one yet. When wife gets home will check that, I did do the 3/8ths hole mod to it. Also working through the first five tips again and on tip 5 I registered 005 but it was consistent while wiggling all the wires and even the c101. Does this have to be at 0 or is there an issue somewhere in the wiring?
Old 12-22-2021, 09:36 AM
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I forgot to mention also that the new sensor is a NAPA premium one. I haven't been able to track down a mopar sensor. I did find aa NTK on Rock Auto so may get that ordered so it's here if were looking at a potentially bad sensor.
Old 12-22-2021, 05:42 PM
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Well, just tested the new cps and got 0,nada,nothing. Could it actually be this bad the old one at least read a .2. I will order another one anyway. I went out to the shed to get the parts cannon ready; this is where we seem to be heading. I will start with a new cps then throw in a new coil. Not really sure if it continues after that. I have an engine control unit out of an 89 as I had planned to do that upgrade. I don't want to try it until I get this issue sorted first. Also, not sure about the new unit, it is a different number than the ones shown in the video on cruisers site. Also, the 4-digit number on the other end is 9051, If this is in fact a date code it could be a 90 (still OK) or maybe even a 91 (not OK I'm assuming), so just a little leery of trying it out until I can learn more. It did come out of an 89, but who knows if it was originally from that jeep.
Old 12-30-2021, 12:21 AM
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Well, the new coil and CPS arrived and I installed them. Now when I crank the engine I can hear the fuel pump for several seconds rather than the quick burst I had before, Also, it will do that more than just the one time like I had before. There is even a bit of a stutter while cranking, it wants to start. It seems to be so close, and I can even smell the fuel. Not sure what I am missing but will pull the plugs tomorrow and check them. Any other ideas?
Old 12-30-2021, 05:59 AM
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Check the integrity of the hose/tube from throttle body to MAP sensor.
Old 12-31-2021, 07:18 AM
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Map hose looks good, no cracks or anything broken. Also sprayed out the connector to the sensor with electric cleaner. Will probably do tip 31 anyway so it is done.
Old 01-03-2022, 01:34 PM
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I went ahead and put a new cap and rotor along with plugs and wires, so everything is fresh and new. It cranks really well and acts like it wants to start. It seems really close, stuttering like it's going to turn over but doesn't. I hear the fuel pump kick on and after I few seconds it shuts off with a loud buzz sound. I am not sure if the pump is bad but I do smell gas after cranking several times.

Along with plugs, wires, cap, and rotor I have done Cruisers tips 1-5 again, 11,14,25,36, and 37. Also crank position sensor (twice). Could this be a fuel pump issue even with the gas smell?


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