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1986 Cherokee 2.8l No Start

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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:00 PM
  #31  
beardenbulldog7's Avatar
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Year: 1996
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Alright, so I went to the jeep again today and re-top dead centered the engine, this time taking extra caution to ensure i was on the correct stroke and lined the mark up on the engine. Yet again, it's the deep score and I lined it up under the flute. Only this time, the rotor was pointing almost 90 degrees towards the passenger side.

By the way, the firing order i posted above was incorrect. It was just one that i found for an '87 blazer. It's not the one in the haynes manual.

I already replaced the ignition coil so i know it's not that. The ignition module was replaced in October and I know for a fact it's good. I'm not taking the distributor out, as there's no need. My prognosis is a jumped timing chain. I will begin the tear down process tomorrow evening after I get off of work.
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 11:53 PM
  #32  
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Year: 1994
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The local auto parts stores usually have the rental tools to remove and install the harmonic balancer/damper, which will have to come off to remove the front ( timing) cover, after removing the water pump.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:15 AM
  #33  
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Firing order stamped on intake manifold some where look for that b4 tearing any thing apart what I would do.

Last edited by freegdr; Jan 20, 2015 at 02:21 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:48 AM
  #34  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Originally Posted by beardenbulldog7
Alright, so I went to the jeep again today and re-top dead centered the engine, this time taking extra caution to ensure i was on the correct stroke and lined the mark up on the engine. Yet again, it's the deep score and I lined it up under the flute. Only this time, the rotor was pointing almost 90 degrees towards the passenger side.

By the way, the firing order i posted above was incorrect. It was just one that i found for an '87 blazer. It's not the one in the haynes manual.

I already replaced the ignition coil so i know it's not that. The ignition module was replaced in October and I know for a fact it's good. I'm not taking the distributor out, as there's no need. My prognosis is a jumped timing chain. I will begin the tear down process tomorrow evening after I get off of work.
Firing
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Old Jan 21, 2015 | 03:52 PM
  #35  
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Alright, i pulled the timing cover and (drumroll) the timing marks match up perfectly. The engine never skipped time. The camshaft gear is pretty chewed up so ill go ahead and install the new set anyways, but i'm almost positive now that the problem lies within the distributor as once again it is pointing in a different direction.
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 08:22 AM
  #36  
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[QUOTE=beardenbulldog7;3017659]Alright, i pulled the timing cover and (drumroll) the timing marks match up perfectly. The engine never skipped time. The camshaft gear is pretty chewed up so ill go ahead and install the new set anyways, but i'm almost positive now that the problem lies within the distributor as once again it is pointing in a different


Should of could of would of but now test that distributors pick up like I told you and the rest of the components. One guy mentioned a plastic gear on the distributor or aomething and if that got wiped out the distributor would be off even when you lined up #1 on top dead center. I never seen a coil fix anything unless it was proved to be a coil but those hardly fail. Think ahead and prove something before throwing parts at it and labor. That pick up is important inside the distributor and tells the coil when to fire....
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Old Jan 22, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #37  
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Well it's got a pretty damn strong spark so I highly doubt it's the pickup coil. However, the timing gears were pretty chewed up so it wasn't such a bad idea to pull it anyway. The distributor is off kilter, so I will be pulling it over the weekend.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 03:41 AM
  #38  
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by beardenbulldog7
Well it's got a pretty damn strong spark so I highly doubt it's the pickup coil. However, the timing gears were pretty chewed up so it wasn't such a bad idea to pull it anyway. The distributor is off kilter, so I will be pulling it over the weekend.
Theres 2 tdc , exhaust and compression . since your timing addjustable it might not point directly to no 1 on cap . When on compression. Did you ever see if egrs stuck ?
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 10:54 AM
  #39  
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There is a side top center and a reversal synchronizer combination switch that transduces power back through the valve trane to produce a barometric pressure transducing effect that can cause errattic combustion and fuel atomization in the intake or cylinders lol....
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 02:22 PM
  #40  
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I've had really bad problems with the "new fuel" separating and causing problems in carbed engines. (from the dozer to the generator). Just a thought. If it's been sitting, both the fuel pick-up, and the jets may not actually be in fuel, but a mix of ethanol and water. (it separates to the bottom) Frustrating that some work sometimes. Maybe on 1/2 choke...I keep a supply of extra starter pull cords for 1/2 a dozen engines...For the dozer I just pack another battery out to it on foot through the mud. (usually it's somewhere I don't want to drive) Yea, gotta love that fuel.
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Old Jan 24, 2015 | 08:43 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Theres 2 tdc , exhaust and compression . since your timing addjustable it might not point directly to no 1 on cap . When on compression. Did you ever see if egrs stuck ?
How do you check the egr valve without the engine running? Tomorrow I am going to adjust the distributor because that's what I think is it. I mean i understand the rotor isn't going to be all the way on par, but for the love of all mankind if the engine is TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor is halfway between number 1 and number two, then it's safe to say it's not firing on time. On the bright side, it now has a new timing set, new belts, and the radiator has been flushed.
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 04:35 AM
  #42  
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 04:38 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by beardenbulldog7
How do you check the egr valve without the engine running? Tomorrow I am going to adjust the distributor because that's what I think is it. I mean i understand the rotor isn't going to be all the way on par, but for the love of all mankind if the engine is TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor is halfway between number 1 and number two, then it's safe to say it's not firing on time. On the bright side, it now has a new timing set, new belts, and the radiator has been flushed.
Ignition fires btdc .....Unless dist gear foobar it ran where its at now ...Remove cap and crank engine see if rotor turns .Dont need to pull dizt ya jus loosen it and turn it rotor stays staionary .

Last edited by freegdr; Jan 25, 2015 at 04:42 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 12:21 AM
  #44  
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I could tell you but you wouldn't listen to simplicity... if its not hard most want do it first lol
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 12:25 AM
  #45  
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Lesson #1 always prove something before spending money and never throw parts at a vehicle to discover a fix ...
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