i mostly use rotella t5 0w30, i tried the t6 0w40 before that and i felt it was great, but went to the t5 to save a little $. i actually just changed to defy 5w30 to just give it a shot cause i read decent reviews on it on BITOG, and it was on sale. i'll be switching back to tractor oil though (t5 0w30). the rotella seems to take less time to get to normal operating viscosity then defy. and the motor is noticeably more clickety-clackity with defy. the rotella also gives me a little more pressure at idle.

 

Sorry, guess I missed that. 0W30. In the past he's mentioned that he runs Shell Rotella T5 synthetic. Must've gotten confused as the T5 down here on the shelves is only 0W40.

A large part of it has to do with the fact that Rotella is designed as a diesel oil that is also certified as a gasoline oil. It goes beyond the bare minimum in the API specs for shear strength, additives, detergents, and contaminant control. As it's an API SM oil (not SN) a lot believe that the higher levels of zinc are beneficial to our ancient flat-tappet cam engines. The Rotella brand is well-priced and highly available - it's one of the cheapest synthetics in my area, and everyone has it. Also, our recommendations are based on our experience. Generally we see fantastic results with the stuff. (Of course there are exceptions to every rule.) If you want to get more nitty gritty check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ where oil nerds really get into things.

Based on what exactly? Adding in some ultra-thick agent to get an extra week out of an extremely worn component is fine, but that **** isn't doing anything for your oil pump or valve train. It is simply too thick to be pumped properly.

Time and time again we've seen them cause more problems than it is worth. Failed anti drain-back valves, blown apart media, are not worth the dollar or two saved by getting the orange Extra Guard or it's rebadged OE ilk over a reputable brand.

I have nothing against Mobil 1. It is an excellent oil. It makes absolutely no sense to run such an expensive, high-quality oil just to cut it with a product that bears no certifications, additives, or detergents and is not the recommended viscosity; run it through a filter that can't even take advantage of the oil's qualities (run a Mobil 1 filter...); and then just throwing it all out before it's even approaching it's lifespan.

 

you can't get t5 0w30?

 

Probably can, it's just not out front at Crappy Tire so I forget about it. lol

 

i'm going to start telling everyone i'm on a 35k mile engine oil change interval. I don't actually fill the crankcase with oil. I use baby tears. and oil filters? ha. I use puppy skin.

try it.

 

Prius owners will take you seriously. lol

 

Shell Rotella T5 Syn. Blend 10w-30! Beautiful

 

use 10w-30 AMS synthetic in mine from what i have seen and read it does just as good as royal purple for cheaper

 

Club a couple baby seals and top off that transmission!

 

I hear the extra extra cute ones are the best for that..

 

I've always wondered how many babies they had to grind up to get one bottle of baby oil......

 

About 3.25 to make one, some times just 2 if they get a real chubby baby..

 

Thanks for clarifying that.

You seem up to speed on this stuff. How many does it take to make a small container of baby powder? And, do they use the stuff left over from making the oil?

 

I wouldn't use Quakerstate or Pennszoil. I use Valvoline. I have heard that Castrol is good. Mobil 1 is good but I don't think the 4.0 really needs synthetic.

O and for God's sake don't use a Fram filter!

 

Out of curiosity, why not?
QS and Pennzoil have had their share of rumors, most dating back a few decades when the base oil was pulled out of Pennsylvania wells. Oddly enough, those same PA wellheads are today producing one of the most respected high performance brands in the business (BradPenn).