Senior Member
Quote:
In there you can find, if you are really interested in upgrading for "future toys" as you put it, there is even beefier alt options, as well as other fun mods for future stuff.
For instance:
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
Your talking 100A option for future stuff, why not just go a little bit more and get 117A. (Just dont forget to upgrade wiring even with a 100A) Can never really have overkill, lol
You can get these at the Pull it yourself parts yard for almost nothing and the ones I go to give anywhere from 30days - 1 year money back / exchange warranty on the parts you pull. Totally worth the money.
Why spend $80 on a stock alternator from autozone(or wherever) when you can get bigger for less w/a warranty.
Just another option / my thoughts...
if you look again, i do believe i said DONT FORGET TO UPGRADE WIRESOriginally Posted by DocOrng XJ
As Well, in "OEM Tech" at the top of the page we have a JY Sticky that lists what other vehicles (can be found in the JY) that have parts that are bolt-on to almost bolt-on / slight modification needed for the Jeep XJ.In there you can find, if you are really interested in upgrading for "future toys" as you put it, there is even beefier alt options, as well as other fun mods for future stuff.
For instance:
3. ZJ V8 alternator = more power to run accessories (some grinding required) 136A
5. 2.5L Dakota Alternator = bolt in, upgrades to 117A
Your talking 100A option for future stuff, why not just go a little bit more and get 117A. (Just dont forget to upgrade wiring even with a 100A) Can never really have overkill, lol
You can get these at the Pull it yourself parts yard for almost nothing and the ones I go to give anywhere from 30days - 1 year money back / exchange warranty on the parts you pull. Totally worth the money.
Why spend $80 on a stock alternator from autozone(or wherever) when you can get bigger for less w/a warranty.
Just another option / my thoughts...
even if he goes with "stock replacement 100A" he will still need wire upgrade if he has anything smaller, being that it is an pre 90 model (which means limited power options), he should have something smaller unless an upgrade was already done before he got it
besides, i was just showing him another way for him to have increase in choices for upgrades.
upwinding a alt isnt a bad idea either, just forgot that was a choice, but he still will have to upgrade wires, either way
seeing as how you can get a 117A alt for $40+/- w/warranty & is going to have to upgrade wiring for a lil bit more with a upwind or bigger upgrade such as a dakota or zj, i just done see how its a bad idea to go a lil cheaper
CF Veteran
Quote:
even if he goes with "stock replacement 100A" he will still need wire upgrade if he has anything smaller, being that it is an pre 90 model (which means limited power options), he should have something smaller unless an upgrade was already done before he got it
besides, i was just showing him another way for him to have increase in choices for upgrades.
upwinding a alt isnt a bad idea either, just forgot that was a choice, but he still will have to upgrade wires, either way
seeing as how you can get a 117A alt for $40+/- w/warranty & is going to have to upgrade wiring for a lil bit more with a upwind or bigger upgrade such as a dakota or zj, i just done see how its a bad idea to go a lil cheaper
Then he must get an external regulator - which (for a decent unit) can be another forty bucks or so.Originally Posted by DocOrng XJ
if you look again, i do believe i said DONT FORGET TO UPGRADE WIRESeven if he goes with "stock replacement 100A" he will still need wire upgrade if he has anything smaller, being that it is an pre 90 model (which means limited power options), he should have something smaller unless an upgrade was already done before he got it
besides, i was just showing him another way for him to have increase in choices for upgrades.
upwinding a alt isnt a bad idea either, just forgot that was a choice, but he still will have to upgrade wires, either way
seeing as how you can get a 117A alt for $40+/- w/warranty & is going to have to upgrade wiring for a lil bit more with a upwind or bigger upgrade such as a dakota or zj, i just done see how its a bad idea to go a lil cheaper
And the Delco is more rugged than the ND in the first place. Besides, then ND will not directly swap in place of the Delco! At all.
Your advice is generally sound, but the specifics need work. If he had a 1991-up, you'd be spot-on. But, the ND cannot be considered a "drop-in swap" for the Delco. You have to install an external regulator, you have to wire the regulator up (which usually means modifying the OEM wiring to hit the added regulator,) and the mounting may not match up anyhow (I haven't checked, so I don't know specifically.)
Therefore the Dakota/Durango/ZJ/WJ/WK swap is not a workable idea - it costs a good deal more than the alternator itself will! This is why the ND replacement for the Delco isn't a first-line upgrade choice - it's more work than most people want to get into, and it's just not something I recommend.
Seasoned Member
Quote:
2) Alternators are rated in Amperes, not Watts. (Watts = Volts x Amps, in case you're wondering. Therefore, a 100A alternator would generate 1200 Watts, a 65A alternator would be good for 780 Watts.)
3) There are actually three options for the RENIX (1987-1990) 6-242 engine - 61A, 80A, and 100A. All may be used readily with the OEM mounting location and wiring - but if you are going to make effective full use of the 100A (by adding consistent electrical loads,) upgrading your wiring is recommended.
The 61A CS130 would be the "base" model alternator - found in vehicles with "power nothing" and basic trim packages (Base, Pioneer, probably Chief.)
The 80A would be the "mid-grade" alternator, found in Laredo trim, base vehicles with trailer tow, or the low-end Limited. Power windows & door locks is a potential giveaway here.
The 100A unit is the "high-end" unit - typically found in either the Limited with trailer tow, Laredo with all power options and trailer tow, or any trim level with heavy-duty alternator and trailer tow.
If you really want to know what you've got, you can find the OEM number on your current unit - if it's still there. It's probably an eight-digit number starting with a "1." This assumes, of course, that it's the original alternator - if it's been replaced before, that idea is right out the window! (Although, if there's a sticker with the standard Cham/Lester aftermarket number, that can be checked as well. It will be a four-digit number starting with "7" that will have a one- or two-digit suffix after a dash - the suffix indicates "clock position" of the connexions on the rear case half.)
The difference between the three output levels is internal, all three will swap freely.
Any chance you can de-code this one for me?Originally Posted by 5-90
1) I'm going to have to assume (which I really don't like doing) that you're talking about the 1989 in your profile - it really helps to post what you're dealing with "in the clear" - in your question.2) Alternators are rated in Amperes, not Watts. (Watts = Volts x Amps, in case you're wondering. Therefore, a 100A alternator would generate 1200 Watts, a 65A alternator would be good for 780 Watts.)
3) There are actually three options for the RENIX (1987-1990) 6-242 engine - 61A, 80A, and 100A. All may be used readily with the OEM mounting location and wiring - but if you are going to make effective full use of the 100A (by adding consistent electrical loads,) upgrading your wiring is recommended.
The 61A CS130 would be the "base" model alternator - found in vehicles with "power nothing" and basic trim packages (Base, Pioneer, probably Chief.)
The 80A would be the "mid-grade" alternator, found in Laredo trim, base vehicles with trailer tow, or the low-end Limited. Power windows & door locks is a potential giveaway here.
The 100A unit is the "high-end" unit - typically found in either the Limited with trailer tow, Laredo with all power options and trailer tow, or any trim level with heavy-duty alternator and trailer tow.
If you really want to know what you've got, you can find the OEM number on your current unit - if it's still there. It's probably an eight-digit number starting with a "1." This assumes, of course, that it's the original alternator - if it's been replaced before, that idea is right out the window! (Although, if there's a sticker with the standard Cham/Lester aftermarket number, that can be checked as well. It will be a four-digit number starting with "7" that will have a one- or two-digit suffix after a dash - the suffix indicates "clock position" of the connexions on the rear case half.)
The difference between the three output levels is internal, all three will swap freely.
CF Veteran
in 98 90 amp was most common there is a 120 amp option i believe
CF Veteran
Quote:
96's came with 90amp normal and 117amp heavy duty charging.Originally Posted by Solomon7
Anyone know how I ended up with a 117A alt on my 96?
CF Veteran
Quote:
I can run it through my catalogue, if you can give me a better view (or get in there with a mirror and write down the number.)Originally Posted by waltermitty
Any chance you can de-code this one for me?
I can't quite read it in the picture, and I don't want to screw it up for you. The number under the printed line on the sticker (the line ends in "12V" - but that isn't part of the number, AFAIK) is the one we want, methinks.