10 inch 1100cfm factory e fan replacement. w/pics
#1
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10 inch 1100cfm factory e fan replacement. w/pics
Phase 2 of my cooling upgrade is now complete. Phase One was the install of the 14.4k btu trans cooler from b and m 2 days ago. (I posted a thread with pics) Phase 2 took a good bit of research, planning and experimentation. I wanted to replace the stock e fan with a MUCH higher cfm using the stock shroud also adding an override switch. I wanted the override switch to function as normal with the ecu AND with me being able to flip a switch and turn the fan on at any time.
I finally found a fan i hoped would work. the stocker unit is 11ish inches and rated at 550 cfm. I found a 10 inch unit rated at 1100cfm.
I started by pulling the old efan from the xj and taking the motor/fan out of the shroud. 8mm bolts btw. Use a wrench from underneath.
then to my surprise the 1100 cfm unit dropped right in with a little space to spare.
I had to reverse the fan on the motor and reverse the polarity on the electrical connection to get it to suck the air the right way.
Believe it or not its A LOT quieter than the stock on and pulls TONS more air through the core.
I found a thread on another forum about a specific wire to look for in the main loom in the engine bay to splice into a switch to ground. i did so and it works perfectly. ignition switch ON i can switch the new efan on or off, and the ecu will still turn it on when it's supposed to. One thing, the way i did the switch taking it directly to ground WILL cause a CEL in some newer xjs. You can run it through a relay to avoid this, I dont really care, bc my inspection is due in february when i wouldn't have touched this switch in 4 months.
i do plan to put the relay in eventually....
I finally found a fan i hoped would work. the stocker unit is 11ish inches and rated at 550 cfm. I found a 10 inch unit rated at 1100cfm.
I started by pulling the old efan from the xj and taking the motor/fan out of the shroud. 8mm bolts btw. Use a wrench from underneath.
then to my surprise the 1100 cfm unit dropped right in with a little space to spare.
I had to reverse the fan on the motor and reverse the polarity on the electrical connection to get it to suck the air the right way.
Believe it or not its A LOT quieter than the stock on and pulls TONS more air through the core.
I found a thread on another forum about a specific wire to look for in the main loom in the engine bay to splice into a switch to ground. i did so and it works perfectly. ignition switch ON i can switch the new efan on or off, and the ecu will still turn it on when it's supposed to. One thing, the way i did the switch taking it directly to ground WILL cause a CEL in some newer xjs. You can run it through a relay to avoid this, I dont really care, bc my inspection is due in february when i wouldn't have touched this switch in 4 months.
i do plan to put the relay in eventually....
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Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by kyledye25
Where did you pick the fan up at? I was planning on swapping my clutch fan for an electric one as well.
#5
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its a zirgo brand, model zfb10. You can buy it directly from them for 69 bucks, and then shipping from oregon.
http://www.zirgo.com/fan_selector_op...php?item=ZFB10
I got it for 55 using my new google shopping app. also shipped from oregon.
http://www.esavingswarehouse.com/pro...FB10-DSD444988
took them for damn ever to ship it though. like 6 days, then 5 for it to get here from oregon.
.... am i spelling oregon right?
http://www.zirgo.com/fan_selector_op...php?item=ZFB10
I got it for 55 using my new google shopping app. also shipped from oregon.
http://www.esavingswarehouse.com/pro...FB10-DSD444988
took them for damn ever to ship it though. like 6 days, then 5 for it to get here from oregon.
.... am i spelling oregon right?
#7
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#8
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Year: 1996
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Originally Posted by stev-o
Would that give more mpg
#11
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more reliable and informative than this forum proved to be... I also saw another forum a guy measured the factory fan at 1300 cfm, so who the hell knows. But, I can tell you its a BIG difference both in how long it takes the engine to cool down once i switch it on the the ac is SOO much colder now.
I cannot measure the amp draw b/c my multimeter tops out at 10 amps on dc.
I cannot measure the amp draw b/c my multimeter tops out at 10 amps on dc.
#13
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no i cut them off after the fact even with the shroud. I have since closed the 1/2 inch gap between the fan and the shroud with high temp foil tape. Now every bit of air has to be sucked through the core. a/c blows DAMN COLD now with that fan switched on.
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Thats the one post i was referring to "testing" it at 1300 cfms. I am searching for the one I found stating 550 but i cant find it right now. One thing i thought of, maybe the 550 cfm is the dinky 6 blade old one and the 10 s blade one is 1300. but again who knows.