Krak

Hi All,

New to the forum, but I've been reading up on all the great info on here for about a year. Purchased my XJ last year around this time - she's got 97k right now, all stock, and is mechanically sound, but she's starting to rust in all the usual (and unusual) places.

Over this 4th of July weekend I want to tackle the tailgate. More specifically, the bottom corners of my window seal have peeled away, water got to the bottom of the gate, and now I have a nice rusty hole (also a non working wiper which I will attempt to tackle along).

I plan on taking the gate off, getting that big dent out, patching the hole and painting the bottom.

From what I've read on here, the rear window is glued to the gate, so I am trying to figure out if it's possible to replace the seal without taking the window out? As the current seal is still in OK shape, I was thinking about peeling it all off, cleaning the gap around the window up, and placing the seal back on silicone. I'm not sure if this is possible or a good/bad idea.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jeepwalker

Can't comment on the window adhesion, but seems like you already know that you'll need to cut out all that rust and weld in a new metal patch. IDK your bodywork skills, but cut it out with a cut-off tool, then cut a matching piece of metal, 20ga should be enough. Then weld it up. Be extremely careful to weld it in 'bites' so you don't warp the tailgate metal (from the heat). That means stitch an area, then quit and work on the other rusty area. I can't tell how bad they are, You might be able to sand blast them and get away with just repainting. But you need to let the metal you stitched, cool completely down ...not just a little down. Then stich some more and so on till it's completely welded up. You might just want to take the door off competely and set on a pr of saw horses so you can weld the pinch on the backside.

Once you get it all welded and painted up, the last step is probably the most crucial: rust-preventitive. I personally would put oil on the inside. It's a great rust preventative. You can use more expensive means. What doesn't work are those $5 spray cans of black crap. You need something that'll seep into the seam and protect over time. Good luck!!

lhpdiver

Almost looks like at one point your Jeep was used to move some (salt water) scuba tanks :-)

I know nothing about welding and such - but having owned a (salt water) boat for many years I can highly recommend a product call 'Corrosion Block'. I used to spray it all over the engines (it is electrical safe). When we sold the boat, the 10+ year old engines looked new. It actually 'eats' rust/corrosion.

Here's a link for westmarine.com, but I think you can find it at home depot as well.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/corro...17?recordNum=1

Jeepwalker

He's from Illinois, they use salt on the roads to melt snow/ice in the winter. So, you're correct in the 'salt' analysis.

I'm from the rust-belt too and I can say, don't bother spraying any 'miracle cure' on it. You're not going to convert the rust ...don't try fiberglassing the hole. Those might buy you a year or two. Do it right: Cut out the rot and replace with good metal. Or find a buddy with a welder who can weld it for you. I worked at a bodyshop for years. Otherwise the rust will metastasize like cancer and spread and get much worse. While you're at it, apply some oil to the bottom of your doors and rockers too, and the torque boxes (front of leaf springs) ...areas where Jeeps commonly rust. Prevention is a lot easier than repairing.

Note: If you DO weld a patch in it, I recommend removing the inner plastic panel first (inside of rear door) in case any rubber sealer happens to catch fire (which often happens), and you can easily extinguish it with a rag or light spray of water ....before it burns the vehicle up. Just have someone watch or check it periodically. It's just safe welding eddicate. Also, cover the rear glass BEFORE welding and grinding. Any weld/grind sparks, even from a grinder will imbed themselves in the glass, and ruin the glass and you can't get them out (classic rookie mistake!). Same goes for existing paint ...cover it up. A welding blanket comes in handy for that, but other means will work.

Krak

Thanks for the suggestions. The pictures don't necessary show it well, but the bottom strip of the hole is relatively healthy metal, I plan on cleaning it up well, cutting around, and working some reinforced bondo in. It doesn't have to be perfect as I plan to have undercoating on that bottom strip of the gate, as well as top of the bumper. I will definitely fill the gate up up w bunch of oil . I don't have a welder and not really willing to pay anyone to get this done.

Before I do all of that, I just need to figure out how to deal with that seal....

lhpdiver

Sorry - I was not suggesting to use spray as an alternative to your welding suggestion but rather as a preventative measure in the future. Having lived on the water in Florida for many years I used the spray on a lot of things...

Krak

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Absolutely. It was actually my intention to use undercoating as paint (aside from all the preventative) from the begging as i knew i wouldn't be able to make it perfect w bondo and I would have to get it welded up. But I'm planning on spraying the rockers (starting to rust), a possible a strip of front bumper, and I'll be adding matching front brush-grill and taillight grills (both undercoated).

And yes, I'm from Illinois. The lady who I got the car from had it in the garage for all but last two years, but the damage was already done when I got it.

Good thing about undercoating.... you get any sign of rust and just spray it over. For now I'll most likely try to buy some time and prevent further damage. I'm assuming the rockers and bottom doors will rust in a couple of years and I'll just knock them out all together at that time.


Edit:

Ended up peeling back a little more of the seal and it turns out there is rust on the bottom right side of the window frame - so looks like I'm taking the whole thing out - now i just need to find a post on how to replace the whole seal and take the window out.

Jeepwalker

That's goiing to work like crap (bondo)! And not only that, the spray undercoating is about as worthless as can be. If you look closely as you apply it, you'll see tiny holes in it. Moisture (salt water) can work through it .. most of that spray stuff is crappy. Works great if ya live in CA. Oh well, it'll give you about 2 years. Now's the time to bone up on your welding skills and do a pro job that lasts. It doesn't take that much more extra work. Oh well ...I had to learn the hard way too,....