stephenobe

So I am pretty new here and even newer to Cherokees. I did a ton of research on them before I bought mine and consider myself pretty capable as far as repairs go. I found a 1990 Cherokee and have finally got it running in good condition again.

Now I would like to start adding all the fun stuff. So I know that a 3 inch lift requires no mods or changes. All you do is install it and maybe some lockers in the front and you are good to go. However, the 4.5 inch lift seems to get tricky.

First Question: I know the SYE would need to be installed to make it work, but do i really have to change my rear drive shaft?
Next: Do you have to drop the tcase if you use the SYE? I have seen mixed opinions on that on the forum.
Final: Is doing a full front end locker kit better than lunchbox lockers? Or am I confusing some concepts here.

I am seeking opinions! I am looking at lifts by RE. Is the 1.5 inch lift difference worth all of the trouble? I wouldn't mind spending the money on either, and I wouldn't mind doing some pretty good off roading. It is definitely a fun Jeep, not so much a daily commuter.

First thread, so I hope I asked the questions correctly. Thanks for any suggestions in advance!

jbsjunk

You can either drop the t-case or do a SYE. Not both. And you need to do that with a 3" kit too.

Fred/N0AZZ

The higher you lift the more the costs increase in all that goes with them. I used my 3" leafs and coils from my original lift when I went to 4 1/2" but still paid between $4-$5K to all the extras to do it right not including the extra 1 1/2" of lift.


For example tires larger/gears/lockers/SYE/Driveshaft/HD Adj U/LCA's/Steering/ shocks etc. the list is long to do it right and I'm not finished yet, still a short arm.

stephenobe

So is a short arm system not really a good go then? I know it has to do with flex. And you did re gear for your 4.5? So did you just rebuild a forward driveshaft or did you buy a reinforced rear driveshaft? I want to do this all right, and I want to be able to have fun. Is the difference worth it?

srb53150

you dont regear for lift size , you do it for tire size. of course more lift usually means bigger tires for more ground clearance.

WillyXJ

First: Yes. Something has to change length for when the axle moves up and down. Mopar decided it would be the yoke; offroaders decided it should be the driveshaft (CV). If you do a SYE and keep your stock driveshaft, then your axle will not be able to move up and down very well.

Next: There's no point in dropping the tcase with a SYE installed. One of the benefits of a SYE is you can keep your tcase tucked up for more clearance and less strain on your motor mounts.

Final: There are several opinions and mine is to have a selectable locker for the front. Here's a pretty good explanation of the different types of lockers and when to use which kind:


The control arms not only help with axle flex, but also helps with ride quality. It's all geometry. The further you separate the body from the axles, the more angles of several components change that you need to account for otherwise you'll end up hating the vehicle.

This really depends on what your requirements and intentions are. For some people, fitting 35s without trimming the fenders is their requirement. For others, it's getting the most out of a small budget. While others want to run Carnage Canyon without dragging their drivetrain the whole way through it.

My personal opinion is to not rush into changing your suspension until you know what is required of it. Wheel it stock for a while. Then consider smaller lifts where you aren't required to change a lot of other components.

Also, start with this thread.

stephenobe

That video is awesome. Thanks alot. I used a bleeping jeep video to do a Renix conversion. So he was saying redoing your gears in the front with selectable lockers. Do lockers require specific gears for different components? Is that why you can't use your stock gears?

As far as my tire size, I was hoping to get away with 30 or 31s to be able to stay with the Dana 35 as long as I could. Of course at this point, maybe regearing wouldn't hard, go hard or go home right?

The main reason I wanna jump in a lift is because the suspension needs work anyway. The bushings are bad and I've got a bit of float going on when cruising, so I figured id just knock it all out at once.

She's old too, so a lift might be late summer anyway. Its getting some tuning up first for sure.

Thanks for all the help, I'm still getting the hang of all this.

andrewmp6

Here is the lift chart https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ it shows everything you need.

Fred/N0AZZ

Don't spend any money on the D35, just pickup a Chy 8.25 from a 97-01 XJ they are 29 spline axles and a direct bolt-in good for up to a 35" tire if you take it easy on the skinny peddle.


A 4 1/2" lift is about the min. size for a long arm kit to be effective. My 3" lift a basic entry level Rustys full leaf/coil, shock, hardware kit runs about $438 I think. An adj track bar would also be required with it also.

WyoCherokee

IMHO, Go 4.5 and dont look back. Save up for a lift and a SYE and shaft to do it right. you will thank yourself in the end.

stephenobe

So Ive pretty much decided for a 4.5. Again, it will be a while, engine and body needs work now and that's critical. So far I'm hearing SYE, long arms, probably a steering conversion as well. Also, be on the lookout for a Chrysler 8.25 for the rear end. Ive heard the dana30 is solid enough to keep. Also, gona go with a manual selectable locker myself. K.I.S.S method approved. Thanks for all your help guys, glad I found this forum. Will start a build post myself this summer. Might be asking plenty of questions as well.

scbrooks87

Sounds like a fairly solid plan! If you're sticking with 31" tires, you can easily get away with using a ZJ steering setup for pretty cheap. ZJ tie rod/tie rod ends, and maybe a drop pitman arm if needed, just gotta check the steering geometry after the lift to see if that's needed.


If you save up and do a long arm kit, it'll be awesome! I did short arms for my 3.5" lift, and while the ride is nice, and it flexes really well for a short arm kit, long arms will pretty much always provide a better ride and some pretty monster flex.


A locked Dana 30 will be fine for 31" tires, even for 33" most likely, but I don't think I'd go bigger than that with a locker involved. The selectable locker will be great if you plan to daily driver this thing. It's open on the road, and locked when needed.


I like your plan, and eagerly await the build thread!!

Fred/N0AZZ

If you look at many of the 4 1/2" lift kits they come with 3" leafs and a 1 1/2" shackle and a 4 1/2" coil. That was my reason for starting with the Rustys 3" kit then using an 1 1/2" Boomerang Shackle for good flex. For the front I wanted to keep my 3" coil that was made for a winch/bumper setup and used an ASOS for it.


A selectable locker for the front is a good idea and the OX lockers are the most reasonable with no air or electric required to make them work (that's good in my book). For the rear its hard to beat a full case locker like the Detroit Locker very strong, high quality, quiet.


Good luck and keep us posted on your build.