Need Help. Lost for words 2000 laredo
#1
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Year: 2000
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Need Help. Lost for words 2000 laredo
Hi guys. I'm new to this forum and to owning a jeep. I just purchased a 2000 laredo 4.0 and was running fine until a week ago. When I was driving home I suddenly lost electrical power and acceleration. The dash lights would cut on and off for awhile along with the response from the gas pedal. When I got it home and parked it, it started idleing really rough and would not rev at all. Now when I start it, I see the battery gauge all the way down along with the gauges cutting in and out. It started backfiring while running and someone told me its running rich. I have replaced the CPS, TPS, MAP, changed the spark plugs, and had the battery and alternator tested to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Old fart with a wrench
Welcome to CF!
If you're still running those molded lead battery cable clamps, check for corrosion inside the lead, especially on the smaller red wire that goes to the fuse/relay box under the hood (PDC). It acts like a loose connection from the battery. The larger red wire goes directly to the starter solenoid and that's why you can crank it. That smaller red wire supplies all the juice for everything BUT the starter. Do yourself a favor and replace both the cable ends if they are original. If you noticed, I'm driving one of those.
BTW, it's not running rich. The ignition is cutting in and out.
If you're still running those molded lead battery cable clamps, check for corrosion inside the lead, especially on the smaller red wire that goes to the fuse/relay box under the hood (PDC). It acts like a loose connection from the battery. The larger red wire goes directly to the starter solenoid and that's why you can crank it. That smaller red wire supplies all the juice for everything BUT the starter. Do yourself a favor and replace both the cable ends if they are original. If you noticed, I'm driving one of those.
BTW, it's not running rich. The ignition is cutting in and out.
Last edited by dave1123; 08-23-2016 at 12:04 PM.
#3
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Welcome to CF!
If you're still running those molded lead battery cable clamps, check for corrosion inside the lead, especially on the smaller red wire that goes to the fuse/relay box under the hood (PDC). It acts like a loose connection from the battery. The larger red wire goes directly to the starter solenoid and that's why you can crank it. That smaller red wire supplies all the juice for everything BUT the starter. Do yourself a favor and replace both the cable ends if they are original. If you noticed, I'm driving one of those.
BTW, it's not running rich. The ignition is cutting in and out.
If you're still running those molded lead battery cable clamps, check for corrosion inside the lead, especially on the smaller red wire that goes to the fuse/relay box under the hood (PDC). It acts like a loose connection from the battery. The larger red wire goes directly to the starter solenoid and that's why you can crank it. That smaller red wire supplies all the juice for everything BUT the starter. Do yourself a favor and replace both the cable ends if they are original. If you noticed, I'm driving one of those.
BTW, it's not running rich. The ignition is cutting in and out.
I checked for corrosion and all is clean. Clamps are not original. I unplugged the alternator while it was running and it went to a steady high idle without any type of hesitation.
#4
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Check the battery for a dead or failing cell.
I had a similar problem with poor starting / poor running - traced it to a failing cell on a battery that was only a few months old.
Unstable voltage plays havoc with the electrics.
I had a similar problem with poor starting / poor running - traced it to a failing cell on a battery that was only a few months old.
Unstable voltage plays havoc with the electrics.
#5
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I had the battery retested, checked out fine. Just in case I switched it with my buddy's battery from his jeep, same thing.
#6
Old fart with a wrench
I still think you have a bad connection in the primary battery supply to the PDC or to the fuse panel under the dash.
I had the same problem with my WJ but it was the battery cable. When it started, the gauges would go nuts, the volt gauge was usually bottomed out. the tach needle going full scale and back to zero like a butterfly, all kinds of weird stuff. The engine barely ran and stalled if I put it in gear.
I had the same problem with my WJ but it was the battery cable. When it started, the gauges would go nuts, the volt gauge was usually bottomed out. the tach needle going full scale and back to zero like a butterfly, all kinds of weird stuff. The engine barely ran and stalled if I put it in gear.
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