91 Laredo

As you may have already seen I just installed a 3" lift. The rear is currently around 4"s (is an AAL so I am hoping it will settle some?). Anyway, when I first went on a test drive the driveline was binding so bad I could barely go over 5 mph. Drove around the block and went home and installed a homemade TC drop which seemed to have masked the problem.

My XJ is a 94 with an auto, NP242, and a 8.25 rear.

I was under the impression that with older XJ's TC drops are not usually necessary with minimal lift?

You think I could shim the rear end and pull the TC drop? I dont really like running TC drops , however I dont want to buy the shims and install and end up back where I started.

Any ideas?

XJ Stryker

I am not sure I was under the impression that you wouldn't need anything for a 3in lift with a 242 atleast both mine havnt needed anything. Sorry I got no help I would recheck all your pinion angles and make sure you are correct on them may need to unbolt the U-bolts and adjust your axle some.

okcjeeper

Check the pinion angles once the lift is installed. If a shim will do it in a 2 or 4 degree then go that route.

Rob92XJ

Driveline bind on a 94 XJ with a 3" lift you have a problem with a u-joint or something. The 96 and later XJ's with the external slip t-case are known for binding. Shim the rear axle, if you plan on wheeling it I would install a SYE. My 92 has a 242 and 8.25 and I had a slight vib when I lifted mine 6"

BuckB91XJ

I would have to agree with the guys. If you have binding from a 3" lift, you have a U-joint going bad or something, Bro. Although you did say that the rear looked at 4" higher. With a 4.5" lift kit that I bought. It came with a 1" TC drop kit and 6 degree axle shims. So, if you HB TC drop made the problem go almost all away. I'd still get like a 4 degree shim kit for the rear. That should make the vibes go away comepletely. Shims are pretty inexpensive and they will save your U-joints and your sanity. Vibes suck!!

MasterShakeXJ

put a bunch of weight in the back to help the leafs settle more and see if it still binds when it lowers a bit, or grease your ds. but as for shims or tcase drop, go with shims. tcase drops IMO negate the entire lift process. shims dont really hurt anything, just use steel ones, the aluminum ones will break.

sluggy

excuse the dum question but you all talk about shims???? can you eplain where they go and why.
j

okcjeeper

shims go in the rear between the leaf spring and the spring perch. The help adjust the rear pinion angles..Looks like a wedge.

mike37

OK I'm going to contradict every one

do not shim your axle it will change your pinion angle and make your drive line vibrate

you have the 8.25 and the pinion is lower than the D35 thats why you are getting drive line bind


if you don't want the TC drop you can
1 get a SYE
2 get a high angle yoke + a small DS shim at the axle
3 get a CV DS made and you will need to shim pinion angle up for this for proper harmonics

91 Laredo

So to make life easier do you think it would be pointless to install shims and pull the TC drop? Do you think I will still have some binding?

When the lift was done I could tell that the driveline looked like it would have an issue.

Here are some photos, didnt take any before the t-case drop.

91 Laredo

How do I do this as the leaves fit over the center bolt pin on the axle?

mike37

this is what you need

okcjeeper

That is exactly what I am going to do..

MPETE

how much does something like that run price wise and who makes them?????

MasterShakeXJ

AdvanceAdapter sye, PORC. tom woods makes a quality driveshaft. if you have a 242 tcase you can do a hack n tap.