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Rust through lift

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:53 PM
  #1  
gajeepxj's Avatar
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From: Dallas, Ga/Katy, TX
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default Rust through lift

OK, I own 2 xjs, one is nothing but rust, but great drivetrain. The other is newer, half the parts are missing, drive train sucks. Well, this week end I was installing the RC 4.5 lift, and as I was jacking the forward spring eyelet forward into the torque Box, the eyelet disapeared into the body. Arg!!!

Ok, I guess it is rotted too. I dont mind wheeling it if you guys say yea, dont worry bout it, that torque box is attached fimly to the uni-frame. Or do I start looking for a new Body?? I really have no money to be spending, maybe in a month I will have about 2 hundred, and can set aside 100 every month after. The lift is on, 4.5 with 2 inch shackles in rear and the 4.5 in the front. If i do need to get a new body, other than craigslist, anyone know of a good place to look cause i will get a 98+ Body instead of my old crap?

But If it is safe to wheel, hell ya I will go radical now. Or should I try and weld new metal, who in ga can do this for me?
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #2  
98 JeepJeep's Avatar
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From: Stafford,VA
Year: 1998
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weld in a new piece of metal.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:27 AM
  #3  
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From: Dallas, Ga/Katy, TX
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how easy or difficult is it? I am not good tith my arc welder, never tig or mig welded before.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 05:48 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by gajeepxj
how easy or difficult is it? I am not good tith my arc welder, never tig or mig welded before.
Welds...

I prefer "ugly and strong" vs "pretty and weak"

If it has to be big and gnarly to be strong-enough, then fire up that stick welder and give it Hell.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #5  
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 soon to be gc ho 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by solderjunkie
Welds...

I prefer "ugly and strong" vs "pretty and weak"

If it has to be big and gnarly to be strong-enough, then fire up that stick welder and give it Hell.
a good welder can make a weld cosmetic and strong in most cases, make sure to get the area your welding grinded clean bare clean metal is best compared to dirty grungy rusty steel....thats one thing that will help you lay a consistant bead you want to do **** like this right the first time. big and gnarly doesnt mean its strong if it isnt burned in good. practice on similar pieces for a few it will help. shoot a pic i can help you ive been welding for years for a company that depends on its welds and strength. as well as making them far from an eye sore....if you can burn it in good but leave a bubblegum lookin weld behind go for it. otherewise practice a bit. goog luck
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 07:30 AM
  #6  
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I've made very few pretty welds with a stick welder.

My MIG... beautiful, fugghettaboutit!!!
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 07:32 AM
  #7  
XJ Stryker's Avatar
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From: Smiths Station, Al
Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Can we get some pics of what you are talking about.

I am having a hard time visualizing this for some reason.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 08:03 AM
  #8  
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From: central IL
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I would weld the floor on the body back up if your goin to wheel it you don't want to break more of the body loose from the frame and cause more problems in the long run good luck and happy wheelin man
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 07:57 PM
  #9  
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From: Dallas, Ga/Katy, TX
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Ok, great guys. I will post pics as I try and start this weekend!!
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