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Took redmuck out last week, after that mini blizzard and put her in 4hi, went thru all the snow covered alleyways. She said what snow ❄️. Anyways yesterday I finally put a new battery in, I decided to look at the blower motor fuse and it was 25 Amp. The manual shows 30 Amp, so I put a 30 Amp in, probably didn't matter though. Oops I still have to secure the battery.
Took redmuck out last week, after that mini blizzard and put her in 4hi, went thru all the snow covered alleyways. She said what snow ❄️.
My XJ was the best in snow. My favorite thing after a heavy snow night was being the first one down the road before the plows and other traffic hit (benefit of working the early shift). It was like an extra comfy snowmobile.
Had to buy an alternator for it and sourced some shorter springs for it. Got tired of the 7.5-8" lift and want to lower it to around 4.5-5.5" instead.
"Getting old sucks, but everybody's doing it." -Bowling for soup.
My XJ was the best in snow. My favorite thing after a heavy snow night was being the first one down the road before the plows and other traffic hit (benefit of working the early shift). It was like an extra comfy snowmobile.
Yesterday, finally changed out the blower fan resistor, have all three speeds now. Hopefully it lasts until April or so. Have my battery secured now too.
Replaced water pump after it exploded and filled engine bay with hot coolant. Trying my best to get coolant smell of it.....
how yall like the fishbone bumper? Just got that unit on 2 weeks ago.
The locker was starting to act weird and has been parked.So.8 have taken my time and pulled it . Now with new bearings,seals, and spider gears are in. Brakes will go on next week when the shop that can turn drums.
Replaced water pump after it exploded and filled engine bay with hot coolant. Trying my best to get coolant smell of it.....
how yall like the fishbone bumper? Just got that unit on 2 weeks ago.
Lower is better! Uptravel is for the weak - downtravel is for the informed.
With injuries to my back, neck and leg, it's getting harder to get in and out of. So she's been parked for quite some time. Besides, I really don't do the mudding thing anymore.
Last night, I replaced my motor mounts with Prothane motor mounts off Amazon.
First the good.
Others' reviews of these (like on youtube) mention that you need to grind the mounting bracket. Once the offending piece of casting is ground off these fit nicely and firmly. They seem to hold the engine steady, and now I can move on to replacing a very cracked exhaust manifold - which cracked because the motor was moving around so much in the engine bay. These fit directly into stock location after grinding. They also do not transmit overwhelming vibration into the cab above about 1500 RPM, or while idling under NO LOAD. If you drive a manual trans. then you'll have a lot less vibration, but still more than stock.
Now the not-so-good.
The vibration is tremendous while idling at a stoplight under load (in gear). I recommend you just save up and get brown dogs. Every trim piece in the cabin rattles while the jeep is sitting idle at a stop - again, it is only while in gear and stopped. The vibration is so loud I can no longer hear my Banks Monster Cat-Back exhaust while stopped - it's a flipping straight through muffler! Grinding was required on the driver's side motor mount bracket. (Some others mention grinding some of the rubber on the bushing away, but I think that may cause premature failure of the rubber).
Finally, I-don't-know-what-to-do-with-this info:
My steering is now more accurate...? I noticed immediately that when I took this out for a test drive, the slack in the center position of my steering is nearly gone (there used to be about 1-1/2" of steering wheel 'dead-zone' between giving steering input towards the left vs towards the right). Notably, my old driver's motor mount was completely broken through, offering no support laterally, or as the motor torqued while accelerating. The best I can figure is the whole motor is now acting as a brace between the 'frame rails'. That means the driver's side 'frame rail' has been supporting the majority of the steering stress, which makes sense since that's the side the steering box is located on.
Last edited by cannothas; Jan 3, 2026 at 03:34 PM.
Last night, I replaced my motor mounts with Prothane motor mounts off Amazon.
First the good.
Others' reviews of these (like on youtube) mention that you need to grind the mounting bracket. Once the offending piece of casting is ground off these fit nicely and firmly. They seem to hold the engine steady, and now I can move on to replacing a very cracked exhaust manifold - which cracked because the motor was moving around so much in the engine bay. These fit directly into stock location after grinding. They also do not transmit overwhelming vibration into the cab above about 1500 RPM, or while idling under NO LOAD. If you drive a manual trans. then you'll have a lot less vibration, but still more than stock.
Now the not-so-good.
The vibration is tremendous while idling at a stoplight under load (in gear). I recommend you just save up and get brown dogs. Every trim piece in the cabin rattles while the jeep is sitting idle at a stop - again, it is only while in gear and stopped. The vibration is so loud I can no longer hear my Banks Monster Cat-Back exhaust while stopped - it's a flipping straight through muffler! Grinding was required on the driver's side motor mount bracket. (Some others mention grinding some of the rubber on the bushing away, but I think that may cause premature failure of the rubber).
Finally, I-don't-know-what-to-do-with-this info:
My steering is now more accurate...? I noticed immediately that when I took this out for a test drive, the slack in the center position of my steering is nearly gone (there used to be about 1-1/2" of steering wheel 'dead-zone' between giving steering input towards the left vs towards the right). Notably, my old driver's motor mount was completely broken through, offering no support laterally, or as the motor torqued while accelerating. The best I can figure is the whole motor is now acting as a brace between the 'frame rails'. That means the driver's side 'frame rail' has been supporting the majority of the steering stress, which makes sense since that's the side the steering box is located on.
If you don’t want to feel vibration, don’t get the Brown Dog mounts either. I have them in my ‘91 and after a few years’ use they are still transmitting vibes at idle. I should have gone with Crown OEM style.
Snow wheeling
