Thanks for the tip! Im ditching the stock box however.

 

It's a Jeep. No need to paint the engine bay. Jeeps are supposed to work, not look good. I'm just happy if mine isn't greasy. Hate getting my hands filthy checking the oil or hooking up the air compressor.

Nice looking coolant bottle. Is that the stock one? I'm planning to convert mine to an open cooling system and will need to add an overflow bottle.

 

Just wait until i do my valve cover gasket, you'll be seeing a bright red cover. Maybe I'll do my diff covers and hub caps in spite of that comment.

It's a universal from Autozone, $9. Has three mounting spots and hooks up at the bottom. Fits perfect in that spot.
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Rock on. It's your style, live it. Me, I don't worry about a pretty underhood on the Jeep. The Camaro, that's another story. That one I keep polished up. Car looks like ****, but the engine bay is clean.

 

Got any pictures of the camaro?

 

I don't take many pictures. This is the only picture of the car I have on the computer:



That was taken about a year or so ago. That's the wife holding our daughter in front of the old house. That's the nose of my 02 Z28 in the left side of the pic. I sold that one last April (too many toys). It has 45k miles on it when I sold it. The 79 on the other hand has somewhere around 250k or so (depending on which part you are looking at).

 

Looking good!

I don't have access to the drill press right now as it's not working so I have to drill the holes by hand for the angle iron. I've read up a little and let me know if this makes sense to you:

• Use a punch
• Oil the area
• Smaller pilot hole, 1/8"
• Bigger pilot hole, 1/4"
• Drill out the hole to 1/2"

I've also read that instead of HSS use the cobalt bits and slow and steady wins the race. Does that seem right to you Mr. master fabricator? I know drilling a hole isn't rocket science, but it'd be nice to know the correct way to do it. I'm still learning.

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That’s pretty much it, except don’t use oil because it will contaminate the weld. Get you some Anchorlube (can be had on Amazon for just a few dollars). Anchorlube is water based, so it will not contaminate the weld. It also cuts much better than oil. Be VERY careful when stepping up bit sizes, the drill will want to catch and snap your wrist or break your bit. Cobalt bits are better, but they also cost more.

Considering how thin the material is, you could probably get away with skipping the 1/8” bit, just do 1/4 then 1/2.

 

See, what would I do without you. Contaminating welds, that's what.

Sneak peak of the Spectre install. Sounds awesome inside the cab.

 

 

One side angle iron for the rockers done

 

bad_idea you said you like uniformity, and I accidently cut one angle iron to 59.25" instead of 60" so I cut both to 59.25"

 

 

LOL on the 59.25". Best part of doing fab work on cars? No prints to follow or oversight to worry you to death about it. Most flaws can be hidden from the casual observer. Also, over engineer everything and when you fall short, it's still overkill.