I think the Lebaron vents took OEM on a Cherokee

 

The headlights are now discontinued Morimoto Bi-LED lights. The fog lights are Rigid Industries DOT legal LED fog lights, and the driving lights are Rigid Industries R2-46 Hyperspots.

 

I used an aluminum riser block to clear the fuel rail then an m90 conversion plate. The m90 bolts down to The plate. A conversion plate on the SC intake allows the stock TB to bolt directly with all sensors to the SC. 36lbs injectors with an AEM FIC 1913 run the system in boost. W/m injects at 5psi and runs up to 10psi. In vacuum it performs just as a stock jeep would.

 

Napier Hood Vents have been excellent for me.

 

I put the Napier's on mine, I love them!!

 

Awesome looking XJ!

 

Two points:

1. As others have pointed out, be sure your mechanical fan clutch is working properly. Also, I've wired up a switch to my electric fan, so I can leave it on while sitting in traffic if necessary. I'll also leave it on for minute after parking and turning of the engine in hot weather to push out some of the hot air. It definitely helps.

2. If you go the hood vent route, remember that there's an area of high pressure that develops near the base of the windshield as you gain speed, so vents mounted too far back (or especially hood spacers) will actually try to push air down into the hood rather up and out. It's fine if you're stopped or going slowly (or sideways, which is why drifters use hood spacers), but can be detrimental while driving, especially at highway speeds. Ever notice how hood vents on race cars tend to be located fairly far forward?

 

What you are saying about the high pressure area @ the base of the windshield is true....but if the pressure is high enough to force air down under the hood, it will also have no choice but to force the hot air down and under the firewall and fenders.....so you still get rid of the hot air just not as efficiently.

 

Interesting point. The primary problem is it reduces flow through the radiator.

 

I like the idea of hood vents, and many look cool. But the reality is if your engine and cooling system are operating properly then they are not needed. Mine runs around 210 at 65mph or at 5mph. As it should be. If it runs cooler than 210 it is not operating at optimal temperature. The Jeep engineers were not stupid and your Jeep is not supposed to run cooler than that.

 

But would it ??

You'd still have the same high pressure area in front of the radiator...the only difference is now instead of going thru the radiator and out the hood, it goes thru the radiator and out under the body, which is what it does stock anyway.

So you'd still have just as much flow thru the radiator as stock, as I can't see the area at the base of the windshield being any higher pressure than the one in front of the radiator.

 

You know there is one thing you might want to consider because of where we live. I found something about mine when I tore it down to rebuild it. The inside of the oil pan next to the exhaust was cooked bad. And I mean cooked as in it had even changed the color of the metal and had burnt oil carbon buildup type cooked. I am absolutely sure this is not good for the oil at all. And I think it might be unique to very hot areas like ours for these to do this as bad as I found it to be on mine. So I am going to wrap the lower half of the exhaust with insulation where it comes down along side the pan.

 

" If you go the hood vent route, remember that there's an area of high pressure that develops near the base of the windshield as you gain speed, so vents mounted too far back (or especially hood spacers) will actually try to push air down into the hood rather up and out."

"What you are saying about the high pressure area @ the base of the windshield is true....but if the pressure is high enough to force air down under the hood, it will also have no choice but to force the hot air down..."

Also forces foreign debris and dust into the engine bay. That's the main reason I lowered my hood.

"But the reality is if your engine and cooling system are operating properly then they are not needed."

Thinking the same way as time goes on.

"

 

I read about that a while back. Maybe it was even you who brought the subject up. Seems the distance there varies to the point that some theirs are darn near touching. Can't be good.

 

It is the first I have brought it up because I only noticed it recently, but it was very pronounced and had even burnt the paint off of the pan. But I think it might have to do with just how hot it really does get here that aids with this problem. Our "cool air" intake can be 120-125 degrees during the summer so this just might add to the temp at that particular location.