Replacement YETI WJ
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 449
Likes: 5
From: Schenevus, New York
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.0/4.7
Old yeti and new
So, as some of you may be aware, I have a few jeeps, one is my 99 wj, lifted 3" with a stroker 4.6, 50k on the engine.. 250k on the body. Well it shows and the jeep has major subframe rot in the rear so she had to be put out to pasture. Anywho, I got a replacement for a grand, that's fully loaded. 155k on the body, spun bearing in the engine. Has a 2" Puck lift.
Question I have is , is it a bad idea to join the lifts together and get myself roughly 5" of lift?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 449
Likes: 5
From: Schenevus, New York
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.0/4.7
Thought about just leaving it as is, but also kinda have the viewpoint that for off roading, taller is better. Just not sure on combining pucks and spring lift together, and the actual durability of that combination. #1 is getting cut in half and turned into a jeep trailer so retaining a lift in the rear of that would be nice but I just don't know. But then again I'm not even positive that yeti 2 is only a 2" it may be 3" at this currently time they look to sit at the same height. Maybe is just the ground they're on tho.
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Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3,538
Likes: 416
From: SoCal
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Just keep in mind, going from a 3" to a 5" lift, there are going to be a lot more little things involved. Do you already have longer shocks, brake lines, adjustable arms, adjustable track bar and so on all made for the 5" height?
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CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
If you are going to 5" you should not do it with short arms. Get some long arms for it. Not so bad in the back, but the front will be very harsh when you hit anything bigger than a tar strip
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 449
Likes: 5
From: Schenevus, New York
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.0/4.7
Lol okay and as of now it has IROR rear adjustable control arms in it and I figured I'd need longer shocks, (buddy did the same lift on his wj with 3" shocks and ate the bushings all to hell, as well as running stock control arms all the way around.) Yeti 1 still has stock fronts and the other jeep has stocks all the way around.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 449
Likes: 5
From: Schenevus, New York
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.0/4.7
So another random question, my 4.6 stroker is running like *** and I can't figure out why. Changed plugs, cam sensor, coils, still runs horrible. Pops, farts and doesn't want to run for **** when you're trying to move.. injectors are out of a taurus...don't know if they're plugged up due to the 4000 watt amp and 4 12inch subs rattling everything or if it's another issue?? Help plz
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 449
Likes: 5
From: Schenevus, New York
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.0/4.7
It's got a coil pack and cam sensor. Tried turning the gear 180 and rotating the sensor while running. Idk, still only barely runs and runs like **** the whole time


