Wow man, I think it's time to invest in a media blaster!

 

More like blasting caps...grenade this sucker and start on a new one.

 

Rear Hatch Rust Project:

Here's the rear portion of the cargo area, driver side. The passenger side is fine, so we won't be inspecting that today.


Looks much worse when I remove all the loose stuff.


Pile of rust and sheet metal bits I trimmed.


Here are the tools I used: Hammer, Chisel, Wire brush, Tin Snips.


The gas tank is right here! Maybe I should remove it to take care of this rust...I'd like to remove more of this metal, but it is resting right on the tank, and I don't know how to cut it. I'd use the angle grinder, but again, the tank is right here.


I estimate about six license plates to cover these holes. Maybe 7?

 

lol... hey man, for 200 bucks, you can't really complain too much.

 

Yes, I was joking. This is an awesome vehicle, and I'm having a blast tinkering on it. I can't wait to actually drive the thing. Winter's coming up, and I want to play in the snow.

 

1. Passenger Side Rear Shock, Lower Nut.

This shock didn't want to slide off of the post. So I tried using my medium BFH to lever it off...


2. ...and I broke my main BFH.


3. Snapped that sucker right at the head. I'll install a new handle.
(I'm gonna look up how to change a hammer handle...)


4. I still have my Huge FH, my Rubber FH and my regular Claw FH.


5. Here's my access panel for the passenger side shock.


6. Another angle of the passenger side shock access panel. This view it's easier to see the nuts.


7. Here's me making vertical cuts into the nut/bolt combo.


8. Here's the nut/bolt with a bunch of slots cut in it.


9. Here I've chiseled the cuts off, but the nut isn't as smooth as I got it on the driver's side.


10. Lemme try this grinding wheel. Yes, I've been alerted that my grinding disk is mounted backwards. I've fixed the issue.


11. I ground one nut flat and punched out the bolt.


12. Here's the other nut, ground flat. You can see the bolt in the center. A couple hard whacks with a punch and hammer and...


13. That bolt punches right out of the nut.



14. Rust paint.



15. Rust Paint



16. Rust Paint


17. The project so far.

 

Why'd you put the grinding wheel on upside-down?

 

Cause I'm an amateur. Should I flip it over?

(I've been trying to do stuff lately without looking up every freaking step, like I wanna just figure it out on my own. Apparently I messed this one up. Maybe when it comes to dangerous equipment I really should look stuff up first.)

 

Oh haha! Yeah, the domed side is supposed to face you when you're grinding. Keeps the arbor from making contact with your work piece.

 

Makes sense. Thanks. Done.

(UPdate) I've added captions to my post from a few days, ago, and I explain the broken handle.

 

Things are moving forward. Been putting things back together and removing/hacking/cutting away rust.

Bought some anti-seize for putting hubs back together.
Bought a vise so I can install my axle u-joint.
Bought a grease gun to greasing things
Bought more rust conversion paint.

Installed Driver-side ball joints.

Ordered shocks.



Need to:
Measure sway bar and order bushings.
Install axle ujoint.
Install BPEs
Install shocks
Install hubs
Put wheels brakes back together

Order tires.

 

anti-seize every bolt on that thing, I live in maine used about 2 bottle build my jeep, around ball joint, u joint caps everything that will be replaced later

 

Thanks!

I was going to loctite (blue) my bar pin eliminators, since those aren't coming off.

And I was just going to anti-sieze the hub/knuckle joint and the bolts. I saw Pabst boys do it, and I'm on board.

Should I anti-seize EVERYTHING? Shock mounting bolts? Track Bar? Sway Bar Bolts? Caliper Mounting Bolts?

Mike

 

Rear fender, Under Bumper Cap:

So I'm still dealing with the rust issue on this bad boy. I thought I'd pull the bumper caps and fender flares, and of course it's a disaster.

There's not even enough material to cut and fold, and I'd have nothing to bolt it to anyways, because the whole internal structure is gone. Just a frame rail with a leaf spring attached to it. No body.

Non-Rusty Fender Example:

Here's what an in-tact fender should look like under the bumper cap.

Gas Filler Neck

I was wire brushing rust off of the gas filler neck and the smaller tube snapped. So I clamped it off, surgeon style.



Gas Filler Neck

The filler neck is held in by four little screws through the gas door. I removed the screws, but I didn't want to unhook the neck without having the replacement ready. (Junk yard trip!)

Hatch Strut Mount:

Look at these rear lift strut mounts - it's a mini Bar Pin Eliminator! ADORABLE!

 

Hmm.. I'll have to remember the mini-BPE for the hatch when my hatch mounts rip out of the fiberglass...