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Those shocks are a little too long for stock ride height... definitely too long for sagging springs.
Those shocks are PERFECT, however, for a 2" BB or even a 3" lift with BPEs. The 31's will rub the LCAs on those stock wheels and will contact the fenders if you go offroad with them unless you trim up all the way (no lip remaining).
I'm running the JK rubi red shocks on a ~3.5" lift with BPEs and have had no issues. They ride nice.
Thanks for the input, guys. I really appreciate it. I'm not interested in lifting at this point - I just want to get it back on the road.
I'll likely go with just whatever Monroe shocks from the local NAPA. My rear BPEs are on the way. I've got to remove the rear shocks next. It'd be cool if my torch fit up there to heat the upper shock bolts, but I'm not against breaking the bolts and punching the nuts out from below. But I don't have an air hammer/punch (or any air stuff) so I'll be using a BFH and punch. With how rusty this thing is, the hammer may punch itself right up through the body.
With the nuts punched out, I'll drop new bolts in from above and install the BPEs. I like the trick where you fish the bolts into the hole using wire.
I'll hit the local Ace Hardware for bolts and such when my pieces come in.
Next step:
- Remove rear shocks
- Punch-out Rear Upper Nuts (if necessary)
- Order new shocks
- Install new shocks
I know, I was just giving my opinion on the shocks. I like 'em.
Ah ok lol.... yeah Dukie564 runs those shocks on his. Says they're great. He's lifted about 4.5" though I think.... but I think he's got BPEs too.
Originally Posted by MWMahoneyJr
Thanks for the input, guys. I really appreciate it. I'm not interested in lifting at this point - I just want to get it back on the road.
I'll likely go with just whatever Monroe shocks from the local NAPA. My rear BPEs are on the way. I've got to remove the rear shocks next. It'd be cool if my torch fit up there to heat the upper shock bolts, but I'm not against breaking the bolts and punching the nuts out from below. But I don't have an air hammer/punch (or any air stuff) so I'll be using a BFH and punch. With how rusty this thing is, the hammer may punch itself right up through the body.
With the nuts punched out, I'll drop new bolts in from above and install the BPEs. I like the trick where you fish the bolts into the hole using wire.
I'll hit the local Ace Hardware for bolts and such when my pieces come in.
Next step:
- Remove rear shocks
- Punch-out Rear Upper Nuts (if necessary)
- Order new shocks
- Install new shocks
That's cool man.... my biggest piece of advice there is to get good quality spacers. Like Spider Trax, Alloy USA, or G2. Stay away from the ebay and overseas made junk.
That's cool man.... my biggest piece of advice there is to get good quality spacers. Like Spider Trax, Alloy USA, or G2. Stay away from the ebay and overseas made junk.
Totally. And they'll be hub-centric. IF I need them.
I've been leaning towards a capable/kinda rugged but still stockish look. I'm not really interested in lifting more than a couple of inches, if at all. Like, I'll be replacing my leafs with the HD stock ones. Anyways, I don't want to modify it other than what is necessary, so I may stick with my factory wheels. Though those old-school ones from CL are pretty cool, and they are stock, too.
And I didn't even get in the garage last weekend for Jeep time. Baby time is more important.
I'll get out there this weekend to get the rear shocks off, and maybe vacuum it out.
Also, here's an article I wrote for Stainless Works. It is about their Camaro exhaust system. Part 2 explains how we design headers. I like the people there, and I'm learning a lot about exhaust systems. Friggin' fascinating. Camaro Exhaust
Mike
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 07-28-2017 at 06:26 AM.
Wow... This thread is just gold! Crazy what a little bit of money and hard work can achieve.
Thanks! Work continues on the Jeep.
Yesterday I:
. - swept under Jeep.
. - pb blasted rear suspension bolts
. - unbolted driver side lower shock mount.
Upper shock bolts are rusted, bad. I couldn't get any bit to grab. Oh, 13mm slips, must be 12mm. Wait, 12mm slips? Better try 11mm - nope, 11mm won't fit over the bolt head. 1/2- inch, 7/16-inch. - No dice.
I can't get vice grips up there. I'm wondering what my next step is.
Maybe I need a set of those extractor bits...Harbor Freight, here I come!
I'm gonna cut the floor and go at these bolts from above. I'll grind the nuts in half and chisel them apart. Then pop the bolts down. I just have to be careful not to cut the body, AT ALL. It's already rusty. I'll drop new bolts through, with fat washers. The new BPEs should be here on Thursday.
I better order shocks!
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 07-31-2017 at 07:48 AM.
Reason: Fixed the link.
This guy is my hero.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/curious-howd-you-fix-your-rear-shock-bolts-210932/#post3293968
I'm gonna cut the floor and go at these bolts from above. I'll grind the nuts in half and chisel them apart. Then pop the bolts down. I just have to be careful not to cut the body, AT ALL. It's already rusty. I'll drop new bolts through, with fat washers. The new BPEs should be here on Thursday.
I better order shocks!
why not just hammer or chisel them out and then use something like this? That seems a lot easier then chopping your floor.
The problem is that I can't get the bolts off, or out, or even break off the bolt heads. If I had the shock off, and the bolts out or broken, then yes, the plan would be to punch the nuts out from below. Then drop bolts in from above, or use the rough country nutsert thing. But I can't get any grip on the bolts.
I figure I'm gonna pull the carpet anyways to see how ruined the whole floorpan is. And I don't mind cutting into this Jeep, at all. I know I need to cut out and replace the floor up front. I'm a little excited to hack right into the floor for the shocks.
Upper bolts won't budge. I can't get any socket to grab.
Probably because the bolt rusted into a barnacle with the bar pin.
As I mentioned in my previous post, I'm going at this problem from above. First, clean out the back of the XJ. (It was getting too comfy sitting in the garage. Stuff was starting to get piled into it.)
Carpet Gone!
Well, up to the rear seat. I just cut right across the floor behind the rear seat. I'll remove the rest of the carpet later. I also cut circles around the tie-downs, so there is still carpet and padding stuck to those things.
Passenger-side wheel well.
Driver-Si...holy schnikies!
Holy Schnikies!
(no wonder my turn signals don't work.)
Holy Schnikies!
(At least I have access to the shackle bolt...)
I put a shop light under the wheel well so's you could see the extent of the damage.
Time to Measure
Ok, on to the floor. Since I could see the shackle bolt from below AND from above, that was my reference point. This piece of metal is my ruler. Whatever.
Appropriate amount in from the edge of the frame...
And I have my rough cutting location marked out for the driver's side.
Transfer my measurements to the passenger side...
(you smartie pants bastards will immediately see my error...)
Cut the Driver's Side
Get my Harbor Freight angle grinder out and get to cutting.
Like 45 seconds later and I have a nice hole in the floor.
Voila! Driver Side Shock.
I need to trim some more to get at the rear nut.
Passenger Side Time!
(hmm...something wrong here...)
Exhaust Pipe? Gas Tank?
Where's the shock?
Jerk, the shock is about six inches forward... Because the shocks are on opposite sides of the axle, dumbass.
NEXT:
Trim the driver side floor hole.
Cut a new floor hole for passenger side.
Cut out/Remove shocks.
Clean area.
Wire wheel.
Rust conversion paint.
Install BPEs
Patch both (all three holes)
Patching holes in the floor...
Sheet metal? What kind? I have an old washing machine we're thinking of tossing. Can I cut the sides off and have like 4 big flat pieces of metal to use? Is washing machine steel acceptable for my cheap patches? I saw on one of the guys rebuild threads he used metal from a filing cabinet to repair his floor pan.
And I can't weld, yet, so how to I attach the patches?
Can I use self tappers and this body adhesive/seam sealer I keep hearing about?
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 08-04-2017 at 09:15 AM.
Reason: Added awesomeness. Deal with it.
Duh. I will use some license plates as floor patches. I've got a bunch lying around from when a buddy of mine worked for a used car dealership, and the trade-in car owners usually leave the plates on the car when they trade it in. The dealership doesn't want the plates, so they end up in the dumpster.
And I will use them as floor patches.
No, I didn't get back out there to finish cutting the floor. Yet. But based on the hole for my driver's side shock, I'll easily be able to access the nuts and cut them off. Then I'll punch the bolts down through and the shock'll be uninstalled.
Then I need to work on rust cleanup/prevention and patching these holes.
Last edited by MWMahoneyJr; 08-01-2017 at 12:41 PM.
Duh. I will use some license plates as floor patches. I've got a bunch lying around from when a buddy of mine worked for a used car dealership, and the trade-in car owners usually leave the plates on the car when they trade it in. The dealership doesn't want the plates, so they end up in the dumpster.
And I will use them as floor patches.
No, I didn't get back out there to finish cutting the floor. Yet. But based on the hole for my driver's side shock, I'll easily be able to access the nuts and cut them off. Then I'll punch the bolts down through and the shock'll be uninstalled.
Then I need to work on rust cleanup/prevention and patching these holes.
lol... I have a few of them patching my floor. I wouldn't use them as a permanent affixment, but they work in the interim.
07-26-2017, 10:16 PM
