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I do have fully adjustable upper and lower control arms so adjusting isn't an issue. Though I could not figure out how to "measure" the 5.85* Caster the alignment shop went to, I found a flat place on the differential to attach the gauge. It measured 16* before I started. I extended the lower arms a lot and now it measures 10*. Essentially I moved it 6 degrees. The buckets look better, but the spring still has some bow to it even when it is jacked up with no weight on it. I am gonna leave that side in the air overnight and see how it looks by morning. I wonder if my spring may be junk now and need to be replaced. There is also some angle to the pinion u joint now and I didn't dare get it too far off. It did seem to drive ok on the way home, we shall see.
Are you saying you only adjusted one control arm? Not both lowers? Also, that won't ruin springs. Mine were bowed some but are now straight.
I adjusted both lower arms, for whatever reason, only one spring was/is ever bowed.
Lower control arms set wheelbase and center wheel in well. Upper arms are for adjusting caster. Toe is set last because it changes when caster is adjusted. Take readings off jeep only when it is on wheels or axle is on stands, on level ground.
The following link has a conversion chart for caster readings from flat spot next to diff cover. http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm
Lower control arms set wheelbase and center wheel in well. Upper arms are for adjusting caster. Toe is set last because it changes when caster is adjusted. Take readings off jeep only when it is on wheels or axle is on stands, on level ground.
The following link has a conversion chart for caster readings from flat spot next to diff cover. http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm
The article contradicts what you are saying. They refer to the "packers" to adjust the camber which in effect changes the lower arms, not the uppers. Thank you for sharing though, the chart should come in handy to get a rough idea of what angle I am at.
The article contradicts what you are saying. They refer to the "packers" to adjust the camber which in effect changes the lower arms, not the uppers. Thank you for sharing though, the chart should come in handy to get a rough idea of what angle I am at.
Packers or shims are used on stock lower control arms in a stock configuration. Not the case when using upper and lower adjustable control arms.
The article contradicts what you are saying. They refer to the "packers" to adjust the camber which in effect changes the lower arms, not the uppers. Thank you for sharing though, the chart should come in handy to get a rough idea of what angle I am at.
You also can't adjust camber without getting balljoint inserts or something like that. Or bend an axle...lol
Changed my motor and trans mounts last night and now the exhaust is hitting the trans crossmember
2 steps forward, one step backwards
Might try to out a block of wood and a jack under it but I don't want to crack any welds or my header. If that doesn't work, exhaust shop it is
The bushing is pretty ovaled out, might drill the hole one size larger sided to a big bolt, and have an exhaust shop weld it to the hangar to take up the slack
Changed my motor and trans mounts last night and now the exhaust is hitting the trans crossmember
2 steps forward, one step backwards
Might try to out a block of wood and a jack under it but I don't want to crack any welds or my header. If that doesn't work, exhaust shop it is
The bushing is pretty ovaled out, might drill the hole one size larger sided to a big bolt, and have an exhaust shop weld it to the hangar to take up the slack
Are you sure it's hitting the crossmember? Because when I replaced my trans mount it pushed my exhaust into my floorboards and rattled on them so I took a 4 foot cheater bar and bent the exhaust down a touch...
I put in 4 degree leaf shims, center pins and I bolts. Thanks 5-Speed for getting me those shims and pins! Also, I got some rubicon express sway bar end links put in and they are beefy. I either need to adjust them or my driving habits, because they hit the wheel wells when going over speed bumps now... I believe I have them at the "correct" length but I'm not 100% certain.
Are you sure it's hitting the crossmember? Because when I replaced my trans mount it pushed my exhaust into my floorboards and rattled on them so I took a 4 foot cheater bar and bent the exhaust down a touch...
The trans mount looks flat, but I think it should by a Y shape even when fully installed (it is when I jack up the trans or remove it from the vehicle)?? The exhaust is definitely hitting on the crossmember
Not sure what's going on here, going to try putting the factory one back in to see if its the same deal, I couldn't remember what it looked like before I yanked the old mount out.
The trans mount looks flat, but I think it should by a Y shape even when fully installed (it is when I jack up the trans or remove it from the vehicle)?? The exhaust is definitely hitting on the crossmember
Not sure what's going on here, going to try putting the factory one back in to see if its the same deal, I couldn't remember what it looked like before I yanked the old mount out.
Yeah, mine still isn't that flat and it's been in a while... looks like a bad mount to me.
Measure wheelbase. Will likely find that passenger side is shorter than driver side.
I think I read in the FSM that the rear axle is clocked a bit to compensate for a crown in the road. I don't think the front axle is/should be? Not 100% sure.
I think I read in the FSM that the rear axle is clocked a bit to compensate for a crown in the road. I don't think the front axle is/should be? Not 100% sure.
There is compensation for road crown but exactly where is what I do not know. The front axle has a small amount of 'cross-caster' dialed into it and that has something to do with it.
As for the reduced wheelbase on passenger side, it would be nice to know how this is accomplished.
