I recently bought a '98 Cherokee, and the guy before me hacked it pretty good. He bypassed the NSS with a pushbutton that went from the battery to the switch to the starter. I've recently replaced the NSS, and removed the wires/switch.

He also had a dual post battery (top and side), and had stuff connected to all 4 posts. I've figured out the (+) side, but it's the (-) I have questions about.

From what looks like the main negative wire (coming from the wiring loom), it's a side mount. He also has a thick cable going from a bolt on the engine block (near the alternator) to the battery using the top mount.

I assume I can get rid of the thick top mount one, but I've replaced the battery with a top mount battery (the positive one is top mount).

I guess my question is.....is it ok to remove the cable that goes to the engine block near the alternator, and only use the negative wire that goes back in the wiring loom. If so, is it ok to switch the connector to a top mount one. And finally, what is it supposed to be/look like?

I've included some pictures.

 

i believe the wire going to the block is a ground and you should not remove it.

 

So should I get a battery with both top and side mounts?? Is that stock?

 

here's a stock(ish) setup, there are at least 2 cables going to each pole so i'm not sure why a side pole would be necessary. if i understand your concern correctly, simply get good battery terminals and secure the wires to them.

 

Ok, I think that's the thing then...I just need to get a better terminal so that they can both connect to a top mount.

Thanks!

 

Looks like he used one of those universal aftermarket clamps to get the two ground wires to the (-) battery connector.

The starter and the rest of the electrical system each have their own separate ground (-) returns.
As others said, a (-) cable needs to go to the engine block to provide hi amperage current for the starter during cranking.
The other (-) wire likely provides a hi quality ground for the rest of the electrical system including the cpu.

If only one (-) wire was used, the voltage drop across the wire to the starter would be great enough to mess with the cpu during cranking.

In addition because of the internal impedance of the battery during hi amperage cranking, there's also an accompanying voltage drop internally in the battery. Combine those two voltage drops (with a single (-)) wire and the voltage to cpu might approach zero volts during cranking.

 

Thanks for that!

 

PO was a butcher.

 

You have no idea...

 

i neve

 

Take a look at this pic. This should be the connections at your coil mount studs.





The connection at the right inner fender is critical.



.

 

Cane's pic shows a good setup.

 

Jerry, there are a couple of people on this forum who sell battery cable upgrade kits. That's not a bad option for you. IIRC, one offers a slight upgrade (4 gauge instead of factory 6 gauge) and then an "I just want mine insanely bigger for bragging rights even though there's no real benefit to it" size.

The slight upgrade would get you into some very nice cables to replace the mess you have.

Another option is to roll your own with cables ordered from www.bestboatwire.com, and military style battery terminals from Amazon.

 

I use upgraded wiring also and my terminals use what a lot of people call "Boat Terminals" that have a lug and wing nut added to the top to add extra wires if need be. I use them for my winch wiring and others that need a direct connection to the battery.


There are other good options but this is an inexpensive way to do so.

 

Hey guys. Im still trying to find some great terminals and wires. For those of you who have changed yours. Whats the length? I noticed that one member was selling off his website but it no longer exists. Any help would be great!