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So today's plan was to get both front wheel hubs changed, change the driver's side axle u-joint, install both new front axle seals & swap out the OEM 12 pt hub bolts to new 10.9 hardness 6 pt bolts.
And as The Mythbusters has shown us "Failure is always an option!"
Unknown to me the driver's u-joint had broke and cracked/bent the outer stub shaft of the axle.
So until my replacement outer stub shaft arrives, I had to rig up an axle plug of sorts since I need my outer shaft to help hold the hub together. - see last 2 pictures below.
The driver's side axle shaft & housing had quite a bit of rust build-up inside, which prevented me from installing the axle seal I bought. I was able to remedy this easily with a trick I learned from Bleepinjeep, I used a 2-1/8" hole saw on a drill and ran it in reverse. Cleared it right out, without damaging the axle tube only removed the rust build-up.
Passenger side axle shaft.
The passenger side axle tube had virtually no rust build-up and required no hole saw modification/clearing.
Got the passenger side axle seal installed.
Shaft fits perfectly inside the seals.
Passenger side all new parts installed.
This is my backyard rigged axle plug. I used a bolt and washers to basically seal the tube shut until I receive my new stub shaft and can reinstall my driver's axle shaft.
Bummed out that I scratched it up taking it in and out multiple times.
Last edited by 98jeepster_xj; Sep 5, 2016 at 01:03 AM.
Installed a 3-position toggle switch (ON-OFF-ON). It allows the stereo to toggle between using the stock wiring to power the stereo(the way Chrysler intended) and using the 2nd battery to power the stereo.
The switch is mounted in an out-of-the-way location on the console trim panel under the stereo.
Basically the switch works the following: POSITION I: Normal OEM stereo wiring operation - unit is only on when the key is on. POSITION O: No power to the unit. POSITION II: 2nd battery connected to the unit - unit is on all the time when the switch is in this position.
Installed a 3-position toggle switch (ON-OFF-ON). It allows the stereo to toggle between using the stock wiring to power the stereo(the way Chrysler intended) and using the 2nd battery to power the stereo.
The switch is mounted in an out-of-the-way location on the console trim panel under the stereo.
Basically the switch works the following: POSITION I: Normal OEM stereo wiring operation - unit is only on when the key is on. POSITION O: No power to the unit. POSITION II: 2nd battery connected to the unit - unit is on all the time when the switch is in this position.
I did the upper hinge repair about a year ago, but didn't do the lower hinge since at the time it wasn't bad.
Now the door is starting to sag and cause other problems like the latch breaking and the lower hinge bushing is gone.
I undid the previously replaced upper pin and cutout the lower pin.
I decided since I was taking this apart I would just replace both pins at the same time.
Close-up shot of the lower body-side hinge.
Freshly painted and new bushings installed.
Both pins reinstalled.
Door remounted, BTW goes so much smoother when you have assistance.
Needed to add a door latch reinforcement plate, since the hinge pins were so worn out they caused the sheet metal around the latch to break away.
The plate "sandwiches" the door shell between the lock and plate, making the whole setup stronger.
Added a needed support leg to my relay box/battery isolator mount. It was beginning to sag too much and cause unwanted wear on the stock relay box mount.
Now that it is finished, the mount is extremely sturdy, no more sagging.
I also added a custom-made battery isolator heat-sink cover.
As it seemed fitting today marks my 3rd year of sobriety and so I used my old "whiskey plate" into the cover.
The fins are extremely sharp and were wearing into my upper radiator hose, mainly due to my having mounted too close to the hose.
Well since I had to completely remove the seat covers to install the seat warmers, I simply tossed them into the washing machine.
I know it sounds crude, but hey it worked. (Front-load washing machines work best as it allows the full width of the seat cover to be washed evenly, with minimal agitation)
Remove all metal rods, hog rings and clips carefully before washing to prevent damage to covers or machines.
Just make sure to use the gentle cycle and cold water only (we don't want any shrinkage).
Either air dry or run through dryer on low heat only.
I used Tide pods for detergent as they have the added benefit of having fabric softener already inside.
I plan on doing the rear lower seat in the near future and adding seat warmers there as well. I will post updates when that happens.
Front-end work & Unforseen Problem
