I feel like saving less than 20 lbs using aluminum wouldnt be worth it if you have to stop in the middle of the race to replace a broken tie rod, so they must have a good amount of trust in it.

 

Most race teams no matter the racing have a run life on parts it might be one time or 5.Where i live they do rock bouncing which is rock crawling up a hill at full throttle and those guys use dom for suspension links and steering never seen them break either yet mostly just driveshafts.

 

Serious Offroad 1ton UTK.
No complaints, other than whatever vender he gets the 1ton TRE's from had the wrong size nuts on the ends. I had to put new nuts on both TRE's.

 

Thanks for the input guys but still would like some more. I don't really feel like moving the track bar which is why I rather do an UTK kit. I have a welder, just don't think OTK is necessary. Would like to hear from guys running CavFab or B.Lee kits. I saw a few guys running the serious offroad kit. Anyone use the inserts instead of reaming your knuckles and draglink?


First, welcome to the forum. Second, Please don't hijack my thread (or any threads). This will only send it off-topic which will ultimately kill my thread.
I do my best to help members around here and I'm pretty active throughout the day. I'd be happy to help if you start your own thread. It will also be most beneficial to you because more members will see it and jump in.

 

Cleaned it up for ya...

Don't do inserts. Use a reamer. Just one more thing to go wrong.

 

LMAO...battle of the edits

 

Appreciate that Roni. I'll leave it there for a while so the new guy can see it and hopefully makes a new thread.

I don't mind reaming my knuckles out. Was just interested to see if anyone has ever used them. You still have to drill out your steering parts anyway so what's going one step further and reaming them bad boys out. I'm really starting to lean towards the Serious kit. I do like B.Lee's kit too though. Ugh decisions decisions...

EDIT: HAHA ninja edits! Thanks again for being the clean-up crew here

 

When I got my kit, I got it with the inserts. After looking into it, I decided to not use them, as over time they can wear out, and who wants that? Reaming just made more sense. Solid.

One other note on inserts, in the install instructions it stated you might need to use a section of .003 feeler gauge material to make it fit right. That didn't sit well with me.

 

This is exactly the kind of information I'm looking for. I wouldn't be too happy seeing that a .003 feeler gauge "might" need to be used for the insert to work correctly. Riding the Nope train!

 

I did the Serious kit with the tapered inserts and have had zero problems with them. Yes, I do wish I would have used a reamer tho. It was not fun drilling the knuckles out to 7/8" without a drill press! I damn near burnt up a Dewalt HD cordless drill.
If they get sloppy, I can put new inserts in, or worst case just get new Knuckles and ream them. Didn't see anything in my instructions about using a piece of a feeler gauge tho.

 

Did you simply grab your drill and start drilling your knuckles with a 7/8" drill bit? Because that is not the way to do it lol.

 

Ive been running the b.lee utk hiem system for awhile. Its solid, I wish they had the high clearance one available when I bought mine.

 

Neh, started small, went bigger. Used lots of Cutting oil.
Ended with the 7/8's bit.
Still wasn't fun.

 

Iron Rock OTK with 5/8" hardware. Been solid for 5 years now, though I did just replace the drag link heims this summer with some QA1s. Handles 250 miles per week of daily driving just fine.

 

Cavfab's steering with my Solid diff cover.