Ugh.

That's ugly wiring. Correctly done butt splices, wrapped in tape, I hope?

If it's just twisted and taped, fix that. Get some good quality butt splices (I much prefer the nylon kind) and a decent crimper and fix those connections before you do anything else.


You want something like this:






You do NOT want one of these:





And don't ever do this!






Also, I think I see two white pairs of wires that are connected together, and two purple pairs of wires that are connected together. Fix that too. They may be the same function, but don't combine them like that.

 

ok, i'll see what i can prove today.. tomorrow we have a 1000 mile trip to do in 3 days hopefully get it fixed before then.

thanks

 

hello, first of all you are right twisted and covered with tape, so got me the one from picture number 1 like this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0221&ppt=C0371

the tool in picture number 2 i have indeed and i will throw that in a far corner this new one cost a few dollars more but sure is worth the money makes it so much more fun to do aswell also good investment for the toolbox and will be handy for further use on the jeep.

i purchased a box of the wire connectors and pressed them on as you will see in the picture, after it all was hooked up i slid the radio back into the bracket all hooked up and the interference still remains.



the two orange wire werent twisted together the tape make it look like that after i removed the tape the wire looked like pre-half stripped, my guess this would be for a woofer.

 

Much mo bettah. Nice when you have the right tools, isn't it?

Now, where does your ground wire go? A poor ground is an invitation to problems.

As already mentioned, a couple of caps to ground, and maybe some ferrites, will probably help a lot.

The ferrite beads and the capacitors will be installed on your power inputs. I'm assuming you have one major hot lead (always on) and one lead that is hot when the key is on.

 

ok, back at the ranch.. jeep drove fine for these 1000+ miles, had to add 1 quart of oil half way through the trip. i wish it had more power going up hill other than that it drives fine

ive opened it up again, the yellow one indeed is the constant lead and the red one right next to it does switch on and off by turning the key. the ground wire is together in this whole wire tree and disappears into the dashboard its hard to see where it leads (i was kinda hoping you would know where this goes) it looks like i have to open up the bottom part of the dash to figure that out.
about the ferrite bead im not so familer with, i do understand its suppose but do i need a certain value or range (?mf)
would i be able to find this in an old piece of electronics laying around or maybe the radioshack ?

marc

i really do appreciate you help on this

 

ive found this ferrite bead on an old 12v cig lighter to 9v adapter and installed it on the two inputs of the radio.
first i tried: ground and red through the ferrite (switched with key).. no difference
then i tried: ground and red and also yellow all through the ferrite .. no difference
then i tried: red and yellew together through the ferrite.. no difference (interference remains)



the constant and switched by key lead power wires through a ferrite bead

 

i also want to note, i wasnt able to trace the ground wire yet that leads into the dashboard but while trying this i realized the interference is noticeable only on the moment i plug in the antenna without the antenna FM and AM sounds clear with white noise so to speak i cannot hear the blinkers until i plug the antenna into the radio.

re route the coaxial cable ?

 

another update, ive got the bottom panel off from the dashboard, after wiggling wires back and forth ive noticed all accessories turn off and on while doing this. with a closer look its the connector that connects to the ignition switch, i didnt even take it lose first thing i will do is get a new ignition switch and replace this and take it from there..

 

ok, installed new ignition switch the radio seems to sound a bit more clear the relays switching are still noticable over the speakers, also i have installed a ferrite on each of the two lead wires red and yellow, im not sure how to go about with the capacitors how to install these.. what goes where ? and i havent been able to trace the ground wire that leads to the radio yet even with the bottom part of the dashboard out.. anyone know where this wire goes ?



this is the burnt out ignition switch, wiggling these wires made all accessories go off and on.

 

just took the jeep for a drive and the engine rpm's have gone away which is a huge impovement, still tho i can hear the blinker relay clicking over the speakers but that is not as annoying as the rpm's constantly. Thank you CCKen and BlueRidgeMark for you guys help. i concider this fixed and im happy with it i will keep looking into the capacitor option once i understand how and where exactly.

so in short: replaced ground braided strap from engine to chassis, repressed all wire connections behind the radio, installed two ferrites each on each lead wire and replaced burnt ignition switch.

thanks again and i will move on to the next issue on a new thread

marc

 

Great news! Check the ground for your radio and for the turn signals if you want to clean it up some more. Instead of chasing that radio ground, you could just cut it off and ground it some place close to the radio. That long ground wire isn't doing you any favors.

Caps are easy - connect one end to the power lead, the other to ground. Yes, it does matter which is which with some types of caps. Here's a good write up.