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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
What's the chances of a fuel filler pipe rusting out on a 2000 WJ? I have NOT crawled under it yet, but I smell gas sometimes after I start it, just a whiff, and I've got a Evap system monitor not clearing. I'm going to check it after the sun comes up, but I was just wondering how prevalent this is.
It IS possible that could be your issue. I'm pretty familiar with the WJ however...not all too sure on how exposed the filler neck is to road grime and whatever else could rott the neck. It doesn't take much to set that code, even a small pin hole in the tube would cause it. Ill look at mine and see how exposed it is and we can go from there.
It is tucked up in there pretty well. And the wheel well, and recess that it is in, should protect it from a lot but that's not to say it isn't your issue. Looking at the rusty color of mine in that particular location has me wanting to do some work here lol
Still have to finish up my rack on top but it's getting there. She's almost ready to go. Need to do shocks all the way around so I'm up in the air on if I should just get shocks or buy rough country's 2" lift that comes with shocks
What's the chances of a fuel filler pipe rusting out on a 2000 WJ? I have NOT crawled under it yet, but I smell gas sometimes after I start it, just a whiff, and I've got a Evap system monitor not clearing. I'm going to check it after the sun comes up, but I was just wondering how prevalent this is.
Not familiar with WJ land but on an XJ there are a couple of steel vent lines that connect to the tank. I'm going to assume Jeep did similar to the late models XJs and put the charcoal canister underneath. Mine rusted out and smells like gas there sometimes - oddly it didn't throw a code.
If the filler neck had a hole, you would spill gas when filling up, and the auto-shutoff clicky thing on the gas nozzle wouldn't work properly
Well, a little backstory here might help. My WJ was a pampered garage queen and had ZERO rust on the body or undercarriage when I bought it 75K miles ago. Since then , it has been kept outdoors and driven in deep snow every winter since. In late July, it threw a code for the leak detection pump which I replaced. At the end of the next drive cycle, the code popped again along with one for the the purge solenoid. I replaced the purge solenoid and found a cracked vacuum elbow on the manifold for the leak detection pump which I fixed. It hasn't thrown a code since then, but still has a "not ready" status for the EVAP system. Every once in a while if I get out just after starting it to open the hatch, I smell raw fuel for a second or 2 near the hatch. It doesn't leak on fill-ups even when I squeeze it off after the pump nozzle pops. BTW, it has 198K on it now.
My leak detection pump, purge solenoid, and carbon canister are all under the hood on the driver's side fender panel. I did just recently replace the rear brake pipe under the driver's door and IIRC, the steel tank vent pipe is in the same bracket under there and I may have cracked it from moving it around. Thank you for the brain jump. It got me thinking out of the box. It was still stuck on my wife's Dodge Caravan where the fuel filler pipe disintegrated from rust.
This forum has saved me again! It got me somewhere else to look. I bought this jeep with 125K on it and had NO problems with it until the head cracked at 155K. AFAIK, all the sensors were original until then. Right now I'm up against a NYS inspection by the end of the month and still have 2 monitors "not ready". Being a 2000, it will pass with only 1. The other "not ready" is the 02 heaters. I don't have the $$$ to replace all 4 02 sensors right now, so I figured the EVAP was the place to fix, seeing as how I already replaced the 2 mechanical parts.
One thing I have noticed is the purge solenoid runs ALL the time. IDK if it's supposed to, but I never noticed it before. It's not a Mopar part so it may be noisier because of that. Any thought about that?
Well, a little backstory here might help. My WJ was a pampered garage queen and had ZERO rust on the body or undercarriage when I bought it 75K miles ago. Since then , it has been kept outdoors and driven in deep snow every winter since. In late July, it threw a code for the leak detection pump which I replaced. At the end of the next drive cycle, the code popped again along with one for the the purge solenoid. I replaced the purge solenoid and found a cracked vacuum elbow on the manifold for the leak detection pump which I fixed. It hasn't thrown a code since then, but still has a "not ready" status for the EVAP system. Every once in a while if I get out just after starting it to open the hatch, I smell raw fuel for a second or 2 near the hatch. It doesn't leak on fill-ups even when I squeeze it off after the pump nozzle pops. BTW, it has 198K on it now. My leak detection pump, purge solenoid, and carbon canister are all under the hood on the driver's side fender panel. I did just recently replace the rear brake pipe under the driver's door and IIRC, the steel tank vent pipe is in the same bracket under there and I may have cracked it from moving it around. Thank you for the brain jump. It got me thinking out of the box. It was still stuck on my wife's Dodge Caravan where the fuel filler pipe disintegrated from rust. This forum has saved me again! It got me somewhere else to look. I bought this jeep with 125K on it and had NO problems with it until the head cracked at 155K. AFAIK, all the sensors were original until then. Right now I'm up against a NYS inspection by the end of the month and still have 2 monitors "not ready". Being a 2000, it will pass with only 1. The other "not ready" is the 02 heaters. I don't have the $$$ to replace all 4 02 sensors right now, so I figured the EVAP was the place to fix, seeing as how I already replaced the 2 mechanical parts. One thing I have noticed is the purge solenoid runs ALL the time. IDK if it's supposed to, but I never noticed it before. It's not a Mopar part so it may be noisier because of that. Any thought about that?
I've already checked them. On the WJ with CA emissions, there are 2 fuses. One's marked CA 02 sensors and the other is marked 02 heaters. Both were fine. AFAIK, all the sensors are 200K old. I checked with rockauto for Bosch and all I get is part numbers and lead length. Now I've got to check for Mopar part numbers. I got frightened when one of the Bosch was over $80! My scanner shows I'm getting good information from all the 02 sensors, it's just the heaters that are the problem. That's why I thought the EVAP was the easiest to fix.
Last edited by dave1123; Aug 12, 2016 at 10:00 PM.
no idea on the top part...
