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Hey guys, just got rid of my car and bought a 2000 Jeep Cherokee with 140k miles. 4.5in Rough Country Lift, Federal 33in Mud Tires, Adjustable Track Bar, Quick Disconnect Sway Bar End Links, Bush Wacker Fender Flares, and a Newer Deck W/Bluetooth (yesss lol ).
Planning on replacing the old Headliner, Install new speakers all around, Rough Country 50" LED Light Bar (284 Watt) (Black Series), put up a roof rack, and possibly add a 24in (120 Watt)LED Bar on the bottom of the aftermarket steel (front) bumper, and another one on the roof in the back of the jeep, HID Headlights off www.CarId.com, and LED cubes on the hood (18 Watt).
The roof rack rails are currently off the jeep, and I need to buy new screws for mounting it back on, so I can put my REAL roof rack on. Does anyone know what type/length/width/etc of screws I should buy for the OEM roof rack rails. I've done some research and people say a lot of different things.
Also, I've heard that the jeep Cherokee isn't wired very good. It's all connected to the computer system or something. With replacing all the speakers, and adding the new LED headlights, Cubes, Light Bars, do you think I need to Rewire the whole jeep? If so, any recommendations on what to use/how to do it in the best way. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I keep driving/learning about this Monster. Thanks guys
Welcome aboard! This will probbaly get moved to the Jeep Builds Section. Just curious as to why you would want to put a lightbar on the bottom of the bumper? That thing will get torn right off. In regards to speakers....the speaker wires themselves wont be an issue, it just depends on how much wiring you want to replace.
Most folks dont worry about replacing all the wiring and just popping in new speakers. Unless you are running an Amp and high frequency speakers, there is no need to change out the wires. You will want to check the wiring where the door hinges. Notorious spot for speaker wires and other wires to break.
When you get in to adding lights, etc bear in mind that your alternator and battery/alternator leads are you limiting factor. Most upgrade to a 136 amp alternator out of a Dodge Durango and 4AWG charging and ground cables. your 2000 should have a 117 amp alternator.
And skip those hids,The cheapo hids you find online don't use a projector housing and will blind people.For better headlights good h4 housings and adding a headlight harness with the relays will give you a lot more light.
Well I was going to mount one of the smaller light bars under the winch. I'll probably go above it now tho. Front speakers are dead due to the problem you were saying earlier, door wires broke off in the hinges. So I'll have to re-do that as well before i put in the new speakers. Thanks for the tip with the alternator etc. Will deff. do that for the high wattage setup. As far as those HID's go, been reading around and found the same **** out. Sucks that those things don't work good. I guess they look really cool from what people were saying, just don't light the road at all lol. I'll get those h4's instead.
Anyone know what a squealing noise might be when i start the car (sounds like its a belt or something by the rhythm it makes). Gets louder as I press the gas, and then it'll go away within 10 seconds of driving. Or if i just start the car and let it sit for 5-10 seconds it wont make any noise when I go. Thanks
Check the belt on it first see if its that,On the hids you can get a good set but your looking 300 to 500 bucks range and they are illegal in a lot of state to add to something that didn't have then factory.But for that same money you can get led head lights like trucklite or jw speaker which are almost as bright and will last a long time.
That is a sharp looking black XJ, I had to install a headliner put in mine when I bought it also was less than a $125 at a shop in the stock material with warranty.
Thanks man, I like it a lot as well. Headliner turned out really good, took me forever tho haha. Just installed a roof rack yesterday 2. Its gettin there