I made a thread a little while ago about which bearing/seal rebuild kit I should get for my 96 np242 since there seems to be an 'early' and 'late' model with a couple minor differences (from what I could understand).

well I still haven't gotten around to buy it yet as my problem ended up being my driveshaft slip joint, but now I'm looking into a SYE and I have the same problem.

Here are the two I've narrowed it down to RE1801 and RE1807 but I'm really unsure which one is the right one for me.

Is there any way to know which version of the np242 I have like with shaft length or something like that? there doesn't seem to be any info the RE's website and its retailers.

 

go with an IRO. That way you can use stock front driveshaft. If u go with a RE hack n tap, then u would have to buy their special driveshaft because of the flange, or u would have to look for the flange adapter. It's stupid.

Go with the IRO. In case the driveshaft break, u can easily source a spare one to replace it.

 

thanks for the heads up. is this it? http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10482.html

I think I found what's the difference between both. I have the little rubber booth (which seems to fit the category 96+) so I don't need the seal flange they sell separately. So to make sure I got this right, all I would need is that kit and nothing else? (other than getting a front driveshaft and the tools to hack n tap)

 

Is your jeep a ZJ?

 

and yes that is the one

 

sorry long day at work, I read XJ and edited my post afterwards

perfect, thank you!

 

Helpful tip... Get the drill guide jig. I have one and it was very helpful for me.

 

yep I saw it in the suggested parts and was thinking of getting it. while we're on the subject of helpful tips, did you remove the TC or left it on the jeep? and will a regular drill do or I should rent something more heavy duty?

what I mean by regular: http://www.xnls.co.uk/wp-content/upl...inch-drill.jpg

what I mean by heavy duty : http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components...fb6e18c7b5.jpg

 

I already had the t case out because I traded a 231 for it. So I did it on my bench. I think it was more difficult to do so, since it's hard to drill with one hand holding the t case.

Either drill would work but most importantly is doing it slow.

 

alright so I take it that I shouldn't remove it if I don't need to.

cheers

 

right

 

i also say go with the iro. I have read a lot of people disconnect the front driveshaft (for saftey measures) and run the xj in reverse while cutting the output shaft to help get a straight cut