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Before anyone asks why I didn't go with the T-harness instead, its because I needed a harness that would work best with LED lights and I prefer the hard-wired harness versus the plug-and-play kind.
There are 5 wires to connect to the Jeep:
White = Ground
Brown = Tail Lights
Yellow = Left Turn
Red = Brake
Green = Right Turn
White = Ground
Brown = Tail Lights
Yellow = Left Turn
Red = Brake
Green = Right Turn
Connect the wires as follows:
White = Ground = To Body
Brown = Tail Lights = Brown/Yellow stripe
Yellow = Left Turn = Green/Red stripe
Red = Brake = White/Red stripe
Green = Right Turn = Brown/Red stripe
These wires are found on the vehicle side of the tail light harness connector plug.
I chose to use bullet style connectors versus a wire tap connector.
All tucked away neatly inside of the quarter panel cavity.
I mounted my hi-lift jack using a couple off 3/4" bolts and wingnuts. I drilled the bolt ends to accommodate a 1/4" padlock for security/theft deterrent.
So I'm planning on in the near future upgrading from the stock 90 amp alternator to one of the following options:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290413468818?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIThttp://www.ebay.com/itm/151382826364?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITBoth of these will fit in the stock bracket without modification.
So I needed to purchase a larger battery isolator to accommodate the larger output of the alternator.
I only have one issue so far, size. This isolator is about 4" longer than the one I currently have installed.
It will be a bit of a challenge to get it to fit into Dat Jeep, but I am confidant I can make it work.
Last edited by 98jeepster_xj; Apr 6, 2016 at 09:00 PM.
Unwrapped the new rotors and cleaned them with Brake Cleaner. Taped off the brake pad contact surface of the rotors on both the front and back sides. Got them both taped off. I used metallic red engine paint. I applied 2 light coats and 1 medium coat. I made sure to get it as far inside of the rotor as I could. Inside the rotor vents was extremely difficult. Removed the tape and voila'! This paint needs to be baked on @200 degrees for 20 minutes. I have heard this can be accomplished using a standard home oven.
for a second there I thought you painted the actually disk. Lol. Looks nice.
for a second there I thought you painted the actually disk. Lol. Looks nice.
Thanks!
I plan on using the same color/paint on my valve cover.
From VHT's website they recommend using the engine to bake/cure the color coat on the part.
Which comes in handy since I'm pretty sure the valve cover would not fit in my oven.
I will be painting the calipers at a later date - Still have to order the black caliper paint.
As you can see the pads have worn grooves into the knuckles over time.
I filled the grooves in with my welder and ground them smooth, painted to prevent rusting.
Damn autofocus - there like new again.
Installed the previously painted and freshly baked/cured rotors.
New pads installed and caliper reinstalled.
Last edited by 98jeepster_xj; Apr 9, 2016 at 02:47 PM.
Modified my 2nd fuse relay box bracket to hold my new 200 amp battery isolator.
Basically I just add more steel plate where needed to bolt the isolator down.
Not shown is a support foot to keep the isolator from sagging down.
I was able to reuse all of my battery cables previously purchased.
Last edited by 98jeepster_xj; Apr 9, 2016 at 08:00 PM.
Trailer Wiring
