When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
When specifying unit bearing/hub part numbers, be careful to note that there are two styles offered for the XJ. One is for composite rotors (earlier models) and the other is for cast rotors (later models). As long as the hubs match the rotors, XJ's can run either (an earlier vehicle can switch to cast rotors if also using hubs for cast rotors).
Is that an amazon p/n ?
cause for XJs the Timkin 513084 hubs are the ones I've always used.
Just dont want you to go thru the hassle of returning mail order parts if incorrect.
I didnt know this but i guess there are more than one type, I happened to buy the right ones for my 99
1984 through 1989 - Original AMC hubs, use AMC brake rotors, ( Jeep Part Numbers 4723371,
5252725, 53000228, 53000234 ) AMC calipers, AMC steering knuckles, and AMC roller bearing hubs.
The unit hub/bearing are the same part number for both sides of the vehicle.
1990 through 1999.5 - Older Chrysler type unit hubs, use Composite dimension brake rotors,
( Timken Part # 513084, Jeep Part Number 53007449 ) and Chrysler calipers and Chrysler steering knuckles.
The unit hub/bearing are the same part number for both sides of the vehicle.
1999.5 through 2001 - New Chrysler type unit hubs, use Cast dimension brake rotors,
( TIMKEN Part # HA597449 - Jeep Part Number 5016458 ) and Chrysler calipers and Chrysler steering knuckles.
The unit hub/bearing are the same part number for both sides of the vehicle.
I see people doing that.........but...........ball joint/TRE separator is superior.
As we mature we learn to stop beating the **** out of everything that does not deserve to have the **** beaten out of it.
Really? Most of the folks I know, professional and otherwise, use a big sledge and the shock is enough to loosen the tapered joints in a couple of blows if you know where to hit. Doesn't damage anything. I wasn't able to find a tie rod separator tool that fit these knuckles, but I didn't look too hard.
Really? Most of the folks I know, professional and otherwise, use a big sledge and the shock is enough to loosen the tapered joins in a couple of blows if you know where to hit. Doesn't damage anything. t wasn't able to find a tie rod separator tool that fit these knuckles, but I didn't look too hard.
+1.
Almost all knuckles have a spot specifically cast in them to hammer. 2 or 3 manly blows and they always drop right down.
I see people doing that.........but...........ball joint/TRE separator is superior.
As we mature we learn to stop beating the **** out of everything that does not deserve to have the **** beaten out of it.
I think you're confusing separating the knuckle from the ball joints (which you use a hammer for) with separating the ball joints from the axle tube (which requires a ball joint tool).
I used to swear be Moog. In the last 2 years almost all of the parts I bought by them went to cap fast. Haven't read anything about it online, but perhaps the company got outsourced to another country? Either way, no more Moog for me.
I used to swear be Moog. In the last 2 years almost all of the parts I bought by them went to cap fast. Haven't read anything about it online, but perhaps the company got outsourced to another country? Either way, no more Moog for me.
That's how I feel. OEM spicer for joints all around for me. I had bad luck with Moog BJ's too a year ago when I did mine.
I think you're confusing separating the knuckle from the ball joints (which you use a hammer for) with separating the ball joints from the axle tube (which requires a ball joint tool).
No, I'm not confusing anything......and I've done it.
easy, just remove the c clips then use the ball joint tool and press them one direction take the tool off and pull the cap off that you just pressed out turn the tool around and press the other cap off, then to install i just pull the caps off put the ujoint in the axle and on one side lift the ujoint up and put the cap on it and hit the cap with the hammer holding the ujoint so it goes down with the cap until the cap is flush then turn it over push the cap on and hit it down to flush then install the c clips. hope that all makes sense
just got done with this exact job two days ago, took me about 3 hours a side from start to finish. the biggest pain is figuring out which attachments to use to press the ball joints out and in. and make sure you are pressing the ball joints the right direction. Bottom one you press down and top you press up to get them out
