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who has the best long arm kit?

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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:54 PM
  #1  
1hotboat's Avatar
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From: Los Lunas NM
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default who has the best long arm kit?

I am sure this has been beat into the ground, but my question is this IF all long arm upgrades were on the table and cost was not an issue, who's would you take and why? I am at 4.5 " of lift and may go up 1" (no more) on 33's and I plan on driving on road as well as off. At this time I am about 1/2 way done with a Dana 44 for the front, this XJ will be used.

Thanks
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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I would get frankz's long arm kit. He has been a big help to everyone on is forum and his long arm kit looks beastly and is fairly cheap.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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Metlic53's Avatar
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From: Conroe, Texas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Originally Posted by jmm0122
I would get frankz's long arm kit. He has been a big help to everyone on is forum and his long arm kit looks beastly and is fairly cheap.
i second that, he has alot of sweet deals on his website!
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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From: muskogee ok
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
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I haven't read up on Frankz's but Clayton and iron Rock have some great LA kits.
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 09:49 PM
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From: Austin, TX/ Atlanta, GA
Year: 1999
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frank z has the best radius arm but if you have no budget you might as well go with a true 4 link and get BDS or something
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Old Aug 2, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #6  
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From: Los Lunas NM
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by BigC9164
frank z has the best radius arm but if you have no budget you might as well go with a true 4 link and get BDS or something

Never said I have no budget I said all on the table at no price issue what would you take. Not like a bud giving you a open menu to eat the expensive thing on the menu.

I am looking for the LA set that works not most exp. I want a kit that will hold up with a good cross member and the least maint. good performance .....I guess the best all around. BDS is IMHO way over priced to cover there we don't how you break it warranty
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #7  
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Year: 87
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Look at the Rock Krawler 3 link, or 4 link setup.. Same warranty.

Definately a stable kit.. YOu dont have to do anything to your x-member and everything is a bolt on. I welded all my crap on.. but thats me


Flex shot

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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #8  
89eliminator's Avatar
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From: IN
Year: 1989 Comanche
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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a custom built kit that fits my needs.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #9  
Mike H.'s Avatar
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From: Phoenix AZ
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6ho
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definately Rock Krawler
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 02:33 PM
  #10  
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From: Maine
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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Iron rock offroad or rock crawler. I hear Clayton is decent as well
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 06:11 PM
  #11  
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From: Hayward, CA
Year: 1996
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definitely go with (insert favorite manufacturer here), they make by far the best stuff and will never leave you on the trail. The long arms from (name other manufacturers here) tend to bend/break when you need them the most
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #12  
Zj heep's Avatar
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From: muskogee ok
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
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Originally Posted by Hoooper
definitely go with (insert favorite manufacturer here), they make by far the best stuff and will never leave you on the trail. The long arms from (name other manufacturers here) tend to bend/break when you need them the most
X2

Best reply so far lol.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #13  
N20jeep's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Hoooper
definitely go with (insert favorite manufacturer here), they make by far the best stuff and will never leave you on the trail. The long arms from (name other manufacturers here) tend to bend/break when you need them the most
well put, pretty much the same thing i was going to try and say.

these opinion threads are just that, opinions
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:31 PM
  #14  
afbond03's Avatar
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From: Cheyenne Wyoming
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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I think the only BIG differences between anyones kits are the joints they use and their cross member.
I was pretty sold on a TNT LA Kit. They are local to me, I wheel with them, they have great products, etc, etc.
I ended up buying FrankZ Serious Longarmz. I purchased his front bumper some moons ago and have loved it.
I went with FrankZ stuff because, I like what he makes, he stands behind it, he is still a guy trying to make it out of his garage, and well the price just simply couldn't be touched.
Find a kit where you like the cross member and they use good joints and go for it. Also, be sure you can afford it.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #15  
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Year: 87
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Engine: 4.0
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I will tell you no ones wants to admit they bought something that doesnt work. I have been wheeling the RK kit for 3 almost 4 yrs now. I have had zero issues with the kit I am running. You can do a search and find that RE and RC have either had bushing or joint issues in the last few yrs.

The IRO kit.. the upper arm is sketchy at best if you ask me. From a strictly structual stand point SOlid arms with a bushing at the axle (the part that is always in the mud and on the rocks)and the Heim joint on the frame.

Also there are only 2 kits that are true link suspensions and not a radias arm setup. The BDS and RK... BDS is a true 4 link... The RK is a true 3 link.


I say it is your money buy what you feel like buying, and praise it cause it is the greatest kit money can buy cause you own it. I look at facts... and pics and what actually works.
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