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Replacing purge solenoid tube with flexible hose and eliminating test port.
I just had the pretty common issue of my purge solenoid tube breaking (the one that goes between the solenoid and the tee to the test port + canister). Happened while trying to diagnose a slow evap leak, and I'm thinking the hose may have been the issue.
I could replace with an OEM part, but this thing is only 8 years old and the evap leak CEL started a couple years ago, so I'd rather not go that route. Even the parts of the tube that aren't completely broken are clearly at end of life. Here is where the test port connects to the tee:
I ended up getting parts from anhosefittings.com. A 1/2" 45° female QC to barb fitting, a 1/2" male QC to barb fitting, and 2' of 1/2" FKM fuel hose. The QC fittings are SAE J2044. The hose is super overkill, but it's a short length. I also got some 24 mm constant tension band clamps from Grainger. With how snug the hose was on the barb fittings, I highly doubt the clamps are adding anything, but I'm chasing that evap leak and it's not like they are going to hurt.
I will probably shorten the hose a little more, but I want to see how it settles after a few cycles of engine bay heat. My goal is to minimize stress at the connection point with the OEM hose going to the canister.
Also, I think a mouse or something chewed on the old hose a bit:
That's a solid fix. Using good fuel hose and proper barbed fittings is a permanent repair. Those factory plastic lines are junk and always crack. You've probably solved your evap leak for good. Just double-check your hose routing to keep it away from anything hot.