XJ steering upgade, please help me decide
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Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Beirut
Year: 1994 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
XJ steering upgade, please help me decide
1994 XJ country. Situated in Beirut/Lebanon
I use it for hunting and not rock crawling..
I have RC lift kit on it 4"5 inch with 33" tires
Im upgrading the steering and ive been told to swap those OEM parts :
1) ZJ tie rod and tie rod end to XJ.
2) ZJ drag link to XJ
3) WJ track bar to XJ with a Frame Mount
4) ZJ ball joints (4)
Please let me know if i go for those ones thank you. Tony
I use it for hunting and not rock crawling..
I have RC lift kit on it 4"5 inch with 33" tires
Im upgrading the steering and ive been told to swap those OEM parts :
1) ZJ tie rod and tie rod end to XJ.
2) ZJ drag link to XJ
3) WJ track bar to XJ with a Frame Mount
4) ZJ ball joints (4)
Please let me know if i go for those ones thank you. Tony
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 8,014
Likes: 17
From: Louisville,KY
Model: Cherokee
This list will show everything you need now and could use https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ The list of oem stuff only thing on it worth using is zj v8 tie rod ends the rest is the same stuff you got.On a track bar you need a adjustable aftermarket one double sheer.And the zj ball joints are the same part number as the xj ones so no upgrade at all.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 357
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
What are you trying to accomplish with your upgrade?
If you only want a little extra strength then install the ZJ tie rod and call it a day.
If you want even more strength and slightly better geometry then look into an under the knuckle (UTK) inverted t setup.
If you are looking to correct the geometry as close to stock or better than stock as then you're in for a bit more work. That would involve doing an over the knuckle (OTK) kit. This can be accomplished a few ways, the most popular being an OTK inverted t setup. Check out serious's kits, they're what you want.
Even better than that is crossover steering which can be accomplished by doing a WJ knuckle swap (fair amount of work) or other kits that replace the knuckle to accept crossover steering.
When you do anything OTK it requires that you cut off your old axle-side track bar mount and weld a new mount on top of the axle. This is because the track bar and drag link must remain parallel (and as close in length as possible) to eliminate bump steer.
ZJ tie rod is like $100, utk kit is like $300, OTK is like $400 or more depending on what you have to do to the track bar.
If you only want a little extra strength then install the ZJ tie rod and call it a day.
If you want even more strength and slightly better geometry then look into an under the knuckle (UTK) inverted t setup.
If you are looking to correct the geometry as close to stock or better than stock as then you're in for a bit more work. That would involve doing an over the knuckle (OTK) kit. This can be accomplished a few ways, the most popular being an OTK inverted t setup. Check out serious's kits, they're what you want.
Even better than that is crossover steering which can be accomplished by doing a WJ knuckle swap (fair amount of work) or other kits that replace the knuckle to accept crossover steering.
When you do anything OTK it requires that you cut off your old axle-side track bar mount and weld a new mount on top of the axle. This is because the track bar and drag link must remain parallel (and as close in length as possible) to eliminate bump steer.
ZJ tie rod is like $100, utk kit is like $300, OTK is like $400 or more depending on what you have to do to the track bar.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 17
From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This list will show everything you need now and could use https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ The list of oem stuff only thing on it worth using is zj v8 tie rod ends the rest is the same stuff you got.On a track bar you need a adjustable aftermarket one double sheer.And the zj ball joints are the same part number as the xj ones so no upgrade at all.
Andrew is correct I have a 4 1/2" lift also and run 33's and 35's with the ZJ TRE setup many times stronger than stock and I've had no issues with it period, best part cost was under $100.
Mine is not a "Rock Crawler" either all trails in the mountains and off road use. Its a direct bolt-in no drilling required. You will need a track bar like he described above as well, if you look in my signature you will see many of the parts used on my build OEM upgrades as well as aftermarket.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 129
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From: Beirut
Year: 1994 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
What are you trying to accomplish with your upgrade?
If you only want a little extra strength then install the ZJ tie rod and call it a day.
If you want even more strength and slightly better geometry then look into an under the knuckle (UTK) inverted t setup.
If you are looking to correct the geometry as close to stock or better than stock as then you're in for a bit more work. That would involve doing an over the knuckle (OTK) kit. This can be accomplished a few ways, the most popular being an OTK inverted t setup. Check out serious's kits, they're what you want.
Even better than that is crossover steering which can be accomplished by doing a WJ knuckle swap (fair amount of work) or other kits that replace the knuckle to accept crossover steering.
When you do anything OTK it requires that you cut off your old axle-side track bar mount and weld a new mount on top of the axle. This is because the track bar and drag link must remain parallel (and as close in length as possible) to eliminate bump steer.
ZJ tie rod is like $100, utk kit is like $300, OTK is like $400 or more depending on what you have to do to the track bar.
If you only want a little extra strength then install the ZJ tie rod and call it a day.
If you want even more strength and slightly better geometry then look into an under the knuckle (UTK) inverted t setup.
If you are looking to correct the geometry as close to stock or better than stock as then you're in for a bit more work. That would involve doing an over the knuckle (OTK) kit. This can be accomplished a few ways, the most popular being an OTK inverted t setup. Check out serious's kits, they're what you want.
Even better than that is crossover steering which can be accomplished by doing a WJ knuckle swap (fair amount of work) or other kits that replace the knuckle to accept crossover steering.
When you do anything OTK it requires that you cut off your old axle-side track bar mount and weld a new mount on top of the axle. This is because the track bar and drag link must remain parallel (and as close in length as possible) to eliminate bump steer.
ZJ tie rod is like $100, utk kit is like $300, OTK is like $400 or more depending on what you have to do to the track bar.
I want to improve my steering and geometry but seems its impossible without those kits.
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Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Beirut
Year: 1994 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Photos
My track bar is always pushing the ball joint to the right a u can see in the pic and both tie rods rubber are cut and worn (no bad sound coming for them they still stiff).
Thats why i want to upgrade those parts,
so i will go to a ZJ tie rod + tie rod end for the driver side and zj drag link for the passenger side and i leave the ball joints in place. About the track bar im confused what to do to release the pressure on the ball joint.
Im new to Jeep things i use to go hunting with a Lada
Thats why i want to upgrade those parts,
so i will go to a ZJ tie rod + tie rod end for the driver side and zj drag link for the passenger side and i leave the ball joints in place. About the track bar im confused what to do to release the pressure on the ball joint.
Im new to Jeep things i use to go hunting with a Lada
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 357
From: Andover, VT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
My track bar is always pushing the ball joint to the right a u can see in the pic and both tie rods rubber are cut and worn (no bad sound coming for them they still stiff). Thats why i want to upgrade those parts, so i will go to a ZJ tie rod + tie rod end for the driver side and zj drag link for the passenger side and i leave the ball joints in place. About the track bar im confused what to do to release the pressure on the ball joint. Im new to Jeep things i use to go hunting with a Lada
The track bar end at the frame is considered a tie rod end also. That's just the name of the joint, not a ball joint.
Is that a stock track bar? You really should have an adjustable one with a lift. That's what's causing the misalignment.
If you want to refresh your steering components get a ZJ tie rod with two new tre's. Two new tre's for the drag link, and an adjustable track bar. That will get everything nice and tight.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 129
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From: Beirut
Year: 1994 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Skip the ZJ drag link, it's essentially the same thing as the one you have.
The track bar end at the frame is considered a tie rod end also. That's just the name of the joint, not a ball joint.
Is that a stock track bar? You really should have an adjustable one with a lift. That's what's causing the misalignment.
If you want to refresh your steering components get a ZJ tie rod with two new tre's. Two new tre's for the drag link, and an adjustable track bar. That will get everything nice and tight.
The track bar end at the frame is considered a tie rod end also. That's just the name of the joint, not a ball joint.
Is that a stock track bar? You really should have an adjustable one with a lift. That's what's causing the misalignment.
If you want to refresh your steering components get a ZJ tie rod with two new tre's. Two new tre's for the drag link, and an adjustable track bar. That will get everything nice and tight.
I will look for an adjustable track bar here hope to find and i will change only the parts you mentioned.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque, NM
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A friend of mine built mine for just over 200, he based it off this IRO kit http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11060.html
Its full crossover, mine uses 3/4'' heims. only modifications had to do was drill the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8
Its full crossover, mine uses 3/4'' heims. only modifications had to do was drill the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8
Last edited by PurpleToxin505; Oct 22, 2015 at 01:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Beirut
Year: 1994 Country
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
A friend of mine built mine for just over 200, he based it off this IRO kit http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11060.html
Its full crossover, mine uses 3/4'' heims. only modifications had to do was drill the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8
Its full crossover, mine uses 3/4'' heims. only modifications had to do was drill the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8
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Joined: Mar 2011
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Model: Cherokee
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