Will this work for sye??
#16
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
this type of SYE has a yolk and does not need the adapter.
yolk
Front drivline bolted straight to the yolk.
This style is a flange, and needs an adapater.
yolk
Front drivline bolted straight to the yolk.
This style is a flange, and needs an adapater.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gainesville!!!
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
Awsome thats what i needed to see, i couldn't really visualize. So basically, shop for a sye with an adapter? Thanks!
#18
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
This is my DS right now, what I was saying is when I put my 4.5 inch lift kit on, am I able to put the cv join off of the front DS onto the back one, at that point and that way I'm able to gain back a little bit of length (same idea as a Tcase drop) ?
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gainesville!!!
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
Anyone have any experience with this or heard anything??http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet...minator/Detail
#20
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
A t/case drop doesn't change the length, just the angle of the shaft. the problem is without a SYE you put that u-joint on the T/cas in a bind from to much angle. a double cardon joint can handle the more sevier angle with out a problem.
You can put the CV in on that driveline. but your paying money for a crappy fix. you will wear out the bushing in the T/case, the slip needs to be in the drivline and not the T/case. with it in the T/case it will but a bind on the slip and go threw seals and bushings. It wont really fix the issues.
I don't know how much Drivelines cost around you but by me they are about 200-300 to have fully rebuilt and welding time, with balence and new joints. you would be buying a CV ($100+) and having it welded to your shaft, cut your shaft down as the cv will add to much length, then balenced... about another $100+ . so for $200+ you could get the proper things to fix it once. H&T's are cheap, so are Drivlines in junk yards.
You can put the CV in on that driveline. but your paying money for a crappy fix. you will wear out the bushing in the T/case, the slip needs to be in the drivline and not the T/case. with it in the T/case it will but a bind on the slip and go threw seals and bushings. It wont really fix the issues.
I don't know how much Drivelines cost around you but by me they are about 200-300 to have fully rebuilt and welding time, with balence and new joints. you would be buying a CV ($100+) and having it welded to your shaft, cut your shaft down as the cv will add to much length, then balenced... about another $100+ . so for $200+ you could get the proper things to fix it once. H&T's are cheap, so are Drivlines in junk yards.
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 11-01-2011 at 11:08 AM.
#21
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyone have any experience with this or heard anything??http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet...minator/Detail
I haven't with the crown brand, but thats the ideal style of SYE. BUT it only works on teh NP231 T/case. (didn't list yours in your veh info)
#22
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Gorillaxj
A t/case drop doesn't change the length, just the angle of the shaft. the problem is without a SYE you put that u-joint on the T/cas in a bind from to much angle. a double cardon joint can handle the more sevier angle with out a problem.
You can put the CV in on that driveline. but your paying money for a crappy fix. you will wear out the bushing in the T/case, the slip needs to be in the drivline and not the T/case. with it in the T/case it will but a bind on the slip and go threw seals and bushings. It wont really fix the issues.
I don't know how much Drivelines cost around you but by me they are about 200-300 to have fully rebuilt and welding time, with balence and new joints. you would be buying a CV ($100+) and having it welded to your shaft, cut your shaft down as the cv will add to much length, then balenced... about another $100+ . so for $200+ you could get the proper things to fix it once. H&T's are cheap, so are Drivlines in junk yards.
You can put the CV in on that driveline. but your paying money for a crappy fix. you will wear out the bushing in the T/case, the slip needs to be in the drivline and not the T/case. with it in the T/case it will but a bind on the slip and go threw seals and bushings. It wont really fix the issues.
I don't know how much Drivelines cost around you but by me they are about 200-300 to have fully rebuilt and welding time, with balence and new joints. you would be buying a CV ($100+) and having it welded to your shaft, cut your shaft down as the cv will add to much length, then balenced... about another $100+ . so for $200+ you could get the proper things to fix it once. H&T's are cheap, so are Drivlines in junk yards.
All I'm saying is by installing the double Cv joint, will add 'length' -false length it maybe- but it would help out the joints and angles some, yes?
& I'm asking for myself...because honestly I don't have that kinda money to drop into a drive shaft and a sye..ya know? And for >20 bucks and some of mine time. I would have a better fix than doing nothing. That's all and sorry to the OP for the hijack.
Last edited by Zack92MJ; 11-01-2011 at 03:33 PM.
#23
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
adding a double cardan joint to a slip yoke shaft (assuming you plan to somehow put the slip yoke back on) will make the angle on the lower joints higher and the angles in the double cardan joint will be lower than your single joint would. The SYE decreases length because the joint bolts up much closer to the transfer case than a slip joke is but the actual joint is longer than the old joint.
just leave it alone, do a TC drop and wait until you can get an SYE
just leave it alone, do a TC drop and wait until you can get an SYE
#24
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
adding a double cardan joint to a slip yoke shaft (assuming you plan to somehow put the slip yoke back on) will make the angle on the lower joints higher and the angles in the double cardan joint will be lower than your single joint would. The SYE decreases length because the joint bolts up much closer to the transfer case than a slip joke is but the actual joint is longer than the old joint.
just leave it alone, do a TC drop and wait until you can get an SYE
just leave it alone, do a TC drop and wait until you can get an SYE
#25
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Greensboro
Posts: 1,220
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I agree with above.
When I did mine, I went to my local jy and picked up a front driveshaft out of a grand Cherokee and it cost me a whopping 15 bucks. I got lucky and scored one off a low mileage rig and the u-joints were in pristine condition.
When I did mine, I went to my local jy and picked up a front driveshaft out of a grand Cherokee and it cost me a whopping 15 bucks. I got lucky and scored one off a low mileage rig and the u-joints were in pristine condition.
#26
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gainesville!!!
Posts: 236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 straight 6
I have the 231 t case....sooo will that sye work with that driveshaft i posterd earlier for a direct bolt on to my93 cherokee with an 8.25
#27
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
adding a double cardan joint to a slip yoke shaft (assuming you plan to somehow put the slip yoke back on) will make the angle on the lower joints higher and the angles in the double cardan joint will be lower than your single joint would. The SYE decreases length because the joint bolts up much closer to the transfer case than a slip joke is but the actual joint is longer than the old joint.
just leave it alone, do a TC drop and wait until you can get an SYE
just leave it alone, do a TC drop and wait until you can get an SYE
No, I dont think you see what I'm saying, or i dont think you get what im saying or im not fully understanding you haha
This is what I'm talking about doing
VVVV - *Haha sorry it's hard to write in paint*
#29
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
like this, this is all good and dandy but the other benefit of the sye is break a ujoint with just the slip yoke all the fluid come out when ds is removed
#30
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0