Quote:
Stlavguy is really over dramatizing it. set it up. drive it around. add what you need to
Yeah lol I felt like he was too, but not as bad as the guy who turned his 3.5 into a 6! LOL but yeah it's all good at least I got some input on the lift which was what I was looking for. Thanks to everyone who participated lol. Originally Posted by Atmos
it might sit a bit taller in the rear but it's no stress. it shouldn't be significant or noticeable. you've got a great starter kit basically becuase you're in it for cheap and you've got some decent rear leaf packs. you can add and customize later. you may need shims/tcase drop, you will not need an SYE and drive shaft if you dont want to afford it right now.Stlavguy is really over dramatizing it. set it up. drive it around. add what you need to
Atmos I really do hope I don't need an sye, or a tcase drop, I'll prob do shims if anything first to see if I get away
Junior Member
Quote:
Stlavguy is really over dramatizing it. set it up. drive it around. add what you need to
really? sharing acquired info that i wish someone had shared with me ahead of time and pointing out areas to potentially save move and have better parts is over dramatizing?....Originally Posted by Atmos
it might sit a bit taller in the rear but it's no stress. it shouldn't be significant or noticeable. you've got a great starter kit basically becuase you're in it for cheap and you've got some decent rear leaf packs. you can add and customize later. you may need shims/tcase drop, you will not need an SYE and drive shaft if you dont want to afford it right now.Stlavguy is really over dramatizing it. set it up. drive it around. add what you need to
Junior Member
Quote:
true, and there are also many different combos of engine, tranny, t-case and front/rear axles. it just happens that the 98 auto ends up most likely needing that, not to mention the other person commenting on this thread with a 98 said the exact same thing.Originally Posted by Atmos
people run way taller lifts without an SYE and get by just fine
CF Veteran
Quote:
I have a 98 XJ w and auto so I can speak from exact expierence
1) you WILL HAVE to do a SYE kit with this lift
2) you WILL HAVE to do a new rear Shaft
3) you WILL Most likely also have to install 3-4 deg. Shims in the rear leaf pack to get rid of drive line vibes even after installing the SYE
No different than any other lift kit on the market. You may see an SYE kit as just an added expense, I (and just about everyone else) see it as an upgrade to ensure proper driveline geometry and eliminate a very common failure point.
4) it is in all respects a 4.5" lift not a 3.5" it will only ever be 3.5" if you load a TON of parts front and rear and even then you will be hard pressed to get it down.
5) If you do this kit and you want it to sit level just remove the second leaf from the bottom of the pack.
See my previous posts regarding lift height.
6) if you havent opened/ installed this kit yet RETURN IT!!!! RE is a good Company but this is not a great "system" and you will learn that the hardway after having it on you jeep.
Research and planning prior to purchasing and installing any lift is critical. Understanding that deviating from the OEM XJ configuration is going to change not only the ride height height but the handling characteristics as well is something that every owner needs to comprehend.
RE uses TJ springs for the kit...... (um..... wtf)
The front springs at extremely hard and are not suited well for everyday use, they are 241lb/in ( that's off road racing type spring rate not DD)
look at 4.5" coils from Clayton off road, if you plan on this being a DD and seeing some great off roading and growth in the future. Or maybe OME 2.5" springs w 2" spacers if this is a DD that is "Mall Rated" and will only see light off road use.
RE uses quite a few parts that are interchangeable between the TJ and the XJ...and the LJ...... and the ZJ. A firmer spring rate isn't a bad thing at all. If you consider that most folks that lift their rigs beyond a basic 3.5" height are generally more apt to add more armor, heavier bumpers, winch, lights, etc then having a firmer spring upfront makes perfect sense.
The lower control arms are good but the Bushings they use are **** poor its an hour glass shaped poly that will deflect quickly and wear out if its flexed off road hard or often at all, not to mention the hard poly they use conduct a ton of noise into the chassis and who wants that.You REALLY mised the mark on this one. The hourglass shaper allows for a lot more articulation as compared to to a straight poly bushing. The original composition left a lot to be desired but that was rectified a long time ago. The new PT-MEG are covered by RE Lifetime Warranty as well.
See page 83
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/info/catalog.aspx
Look at IRO adjustable Rubber/Rubber Lower control arms if this is a DD that will see "some" trail time.... Just as strong but they use OEM style rubber Bushings for a great ride and Maximum sound deading
Or JKS new adjustable lower control arms if you want it to be a great DD and be superbeast off road. its OEM Rubber at both ends but rotates to allow full articulation on the trails.
The RE sway bar Discos are just junk.
Go with JKS I did.Junk? No, they most certainly are not "Junk." They are an option for many that don't wish to invest in the JKS Disco's.
So far the only part from the kit I bought that was good was the rear leaf packs.Opinion, most certainly not a fact by anyone's definition. See my previous comments in this reply.
The RE kit works but its a long way from being great....its just better than all of the crap kits out there. You can do way better with your money doing some reasearch and learning from others mistakes (mine) and putting a system together.
Hit me up if you have any other questions.
Basically your "Facts" are just your opinions, and that's fine. You're entitled to them.Originally Posted by Stlavguy
ok guys here is the truth about the RE 3.5" kitI have a 98 XJ w and auto so I can speak from exact expierence
1) you WILL HAVE to do a SYE kit with this lift
2) you WILL HAVE to do a new rear Shaft
3) you WILL Most likely also have to install 3-4 deg. Shims in the rear leaf pack to get rid of drive line vibes even after installing the SYE
No different than any other lift kit on the market. You may see an SYE kit as just an added expense, I (and just about everyone else) see it as an upgrade to ensure proper driveline geometry and eliminate a very common failure point.
4) it is in all respects a 4.5" lift not a 3.5" it will only ever be 3.5" if you load a TON of parts front and rear and even then you will be hard pressed to get it down.
5) If you do this kit and you want it to sit level just remove the second leaf from the bottom of the pack.
See my previous posts regarding lift height.
6) if you havent opened/ installed this kit yet RETURN IT!!!! RE is a good Company but this is not a great "system" and you will learn that the hardway after having it on you jeep.
Research and planning prior to purchasing and installing any lift is critical. Understanding that deviating from the OEM XJ configuration is going to change not only the ride height height but the handling characteristics as well is something that every owner needs to comprehend.
RE uses TJ springs for the kit...... (um..... wtf)
The front springs at extremely hard and are not suited well for everyday use, they are 241lb/in ( that's off road racing type spring rate not DD)
look at 4.5" coils from Clayton off road, if you plan on this being a DD and seeing some great off roading and growth in the future. Or maybe OME 2.5" springs w 2" spacers if this is a DD that is "Mall Rated" and will only see light off road use.
RE uses quite a few parts that are interchangeable between the TJ and the XJ...and the LJ...... and the ZJ. A firmer spring rate isn't a bad thing at all. If you consider that most folks that lift their rigs beyond a basic 3.5" height are generally more apt to add more armor, heavier bumpers, winch, lights, etc then having a firmer spring upfront makes perfect sense.
The lower control arms are good but the Bushings they use are **** poor its an hour glass shaped poly that will deflect quickly and wear out if its flexed off road hard or often at all, not to mention the hard poly they use conduct a ton of noise into the chassis and who wants that.You REALLY mised the mark on this one. The hourglass shaper allows for a lot more articulation as compared to to a straight poly bushing. The original composition left a lot to be desired but that was rectified a long time ago. The new PT-MEG are covered by RE Lifetime Warranty as well.
See page 83
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/info/catalog.aspx
Look at IRO adjustable Rubber/Rubber Lower control arms if this is a DD that will see "some" trail time.... Just as strong but they use OEM style rubber Bushings for a great ride and Maximum sound deading
Or JKS new adjustable lower control arms if you want it to be a great DD and be superbeast off road. its OEM Rubber at both ends but rotates to allow full articulation on the trails.
The RE sway bar Discos are just junk.
Go with JKS I did.Junk? No, they most certainly are not "Junk." They are an option for many that don't wish to invest in the JKS Disco's.
So far the only part from the kit I bought that was good was the rear leaf packs.Opinion, most certainly not a fact by anyone's definition. See my previous comments in this reply.
The RE kit works but its a long way from being great....its just better than all of the crap kits out there. You can do way better with your money doing some reasearch and learning from others mistakes (mine) and putting a system together.
Hit me up if you have any other questions.
Seasoned Member
Quote:
Atmos I really do hope I don't need an sye, or a tcase drop, I'll prob do shims if anything first to see if I get away
Ill laugh at that comment and chalk it up to ignorance. Originally Posted by 1998xjspt
Yeah lol I felt like he was too, but not as bad as the guy who turned his 3.5 into a 6! LOL but yeah it's all good at least I got some input on the lift which was what I was looking for. Thanks to everyone who participated lol. Atmos I really do hope I don't need an sye, or a tcase drop, I'll prob do shims if anything first to see if I get away
Guess you did comprehend what you were reading. (research shackle relocation kits) theres ONE company that just started making SRK's that adds no lift, and they just started selling them like 2 weeks ago. (had mine before or would have damn sure gave them a spin)
Reloactors had nothing to do with wanting more lift, the additional height is just a byproduct of installing them. They improve your shackle angle which will improve your ride quality.
Ill say it for the second time, if you have a bad shackle angle YOU WILL HATE YOUR XJ.
b/c it will feel like a 91 civic on stock cut springs (first hand experience)SRK adds 1 inch, the 1/5 inch for longer shackle.
Simple math 4.5+1+.5 = 6 closer to 5.75 thou
Where would I be if my RE kit was 3.5? Im guessing the 4-5' sweet spot that seems to be where 75% of this forum wants to be.
I learned along time ago, sometimes its better to be quite and listen maybe you'll learn something. THIS thread, with this much info on the exact product I wanted wasnt here 6 weeks ago when I bought my kit. Yes the info was here, just not all packaged in one place.
For the record, I have no ill feelings toward my decisions to buy my RE kit, I had the disposible income to buy everything else I needed to dail it in. I can see how some would be PISSED if they where on a tight budget.
If I had to do it again, I would have 4.5 in long armed dat bi*ch.
again Good luck bro.
I hope your kit turns out fine.
Seasoned Member
Its a good kit, probably not the best possible option for someone wanting a comfortable DD.
CF Veteran
Ride quality is going to be dependent on the shocks used. This is why the shocks are not included. You are not forced to buy something you don't want.
Junior Member
Interesting info. I installed JKs front swaybar discos have had them in over a year. not a fan they constantly need lubing. And they get sloppy fast allowing some nocking sounds when going over low speed dips or bumps in the road. They are a nice looking piece though.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Guess you did comprehend what you were reading. (research shackle relocation kits) theres ONE company that just started making SRK's that adds no lift, and they just started selling them like 2 weeks ago. (had mine before or would have damn sure gave them a spin)
Reloactors had nothing to do with wanting more lift, the additional height is just a byproduct of installing them. They improve your shackle angle which will improve your ride quality.
Ill say it for the second time, if you have a bad shackle angle YOU WILL HATE YOUR XJ.
b/c it will feel like a 91 civic on stock cut springs (first hand experience)
SRK adds 1 inch, the 1/5 inch for longer shackle.
Simple math 4.5+1+.5 = 6 closer to 5.75 thou
Where would I be if my RE kit was 3.5? Im guessing the 4-5' sweet spot that seems to be where 75% of this forum wants to be.
I learned along time ago, sometimes its better to be quite and listen maybe you'll learn something. THIS thread, with this much info on the exact product I wanted wasnt here 6 weeks ago when I bought my kit. Yes the info was here, just not all packaged in one place.
For the record, I have no ill feelings toward my decisions to buy my RE kit, I had the disposible income to buy everything else I needed to dail it in. I can see how some would be PISSED if they where on a tight budget.
If I had to do it again, I would have 4.5 in long armed dat bi*ch.
again Good luck bro.
I hope your kit turns out fine.
yes you can easily turn a 3.5" lift into a 6", height wise that is. you'll still need a bunch of other aftermarket junk. agreed. that's all you needed to say. I'm not sure why a couple of you guys are so worried about rear ride quality when you've all still got short arms Originally Posted by Malik3404
Ill laugh at that comment and chalk it up to ignorance. Guess you did comprehend what you were reading. (research shackle relocation kits) theres ONE company that just started making SRK's that adds no lift, and they just started selling them like 2 weeks ago. (had mine before or would have damn sure gave them a spin)
Reloactors had nothing to do with wanting more lift, the additional height is just a byproduct of installing them. They improve your shackle angle which will improve your ride quality.
Ill say it for the second time, if you have a bad shackle angle YOU WILL HATE YOUR XJ.
b/c it will feel like a 91 civic on stock cut springs (first hand experience)SRK adds 1 inch, the 1/5 inch for longer shackle.
Simple math 4.5+1+.5 = 6 closer to 5.75 thou
Where would I be if my RE kit was 3.5? Im guessing the 4-5' sweet spot that seems to be where 75% of this forum wants to be.
I learned along time ago, sometimes its better to be quite and listen maybe you'll learn something. THIS thread, with this much info on the exact product I wanted wasnt here 6 weeks ago when I bought my kit. Yes the info was here, just not all packaged in one place.
For the record, I have no ill feelings toward my decisions to buy my RE kit, I had the disposible income to buy everything else I needed to dail it in. I can see how some would be PISSED if they where on a tight budget.
If I had to do it again, I would have 4.5 in long armed dat bi*ch.
again Good luck bro.
I hope your kit turns out fine.
once again you guys are picking apart and blowing out of proportion his 3.5" starter kitQuote:
THIS. the biggest difference for my rear suspension was not full leaf packs, or shackle relocation, it was switching to bilsteinsOriginally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Ride quality is going to be dependent on the shocks used. This is why the shocks are not included. You are not forced to buy something you don't want.
Outlaw Star
CF ADMIN
close
- Join DateSep 2010
- LocationLantana, Fl
- Posts:34,088
- Year1996
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.Slow
-
Likes:227
-
Liked:257 Times in 204 Posts
Quote:
True. Too stiff of a shock will cause a stiff ride. I personally went with the Skyjacker Nitro 7000 they were affordable and don't rattle my teeth out.Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Ride quality is going to be dependent on the shocks used. This is why the shocks are not included. You are not forced to buy something you don't want.
Member
Anyone have any pics of a super ride flexing? How much more flex will a super flex lift offer?
At what level of wheeling is the super ride inadequate and superflex mandatory?
At what level of wheeling is the super ride inadequate and superflex mandatory?
CF Veteran
Brambles just google search the 3.5" super flex and compare it to the 4.5" super flex.
Lots of difference in components. Track bar, upper control arms, shackles. The biggest determinants in flex will be brake line extensions, proper length shocks, and removal of sway bars
Lots of difference in components. Track bar, upper control arms, shackles. The biggest determinants in flex will be brake line extensions, proper length shocks, and removal of sway bars
Member
I am familiar with the lifts and different components that each one comes with, but Im unsure which one is the right one for me
3.5 super ride
3.5 super flex
4.5 superflex
The advantage of the cheaper kits is it leaves money for other upgrades. But the advantage of the 4.5 SF is more factory components are replaced with new ones which hopefully will restore more of the new car feel to an ol sagged out girl!
3.5 super ride
3.5 super flex
4.5 superflex
The advantage of the cheaper kits is it leaves money for other upgrades. But the advantage of the 4.5 SF is more factory components are replaced with new ones which hopefully will restore more of the new car feel to an ol sagged out girl!
Junior Member
Quote:
3.5 super ride
3.5 super flex
4.5 superflex
The advantage of the cheaper kits is it leaves money for other upgrades. But the advantage of the 4.5 SF is more factory components are replaced with new ones which hopefully will restore more of the new car feel to an ol sagged out girl!
More than likely none of the "kits" are what's best.... Look at my first post in this string for more info.Originally Posted by Brambles
I am familiar with the lifts and different components that each one comes with, but Im unsure which one is the right one for me3.5 super ride
3.5 super flex
4.5 superflex
The advantage of the cheaper kits is it leaves money for other upgrades. But the advantage of the 4.5 SF is more factory components are replaced with new ones which hopefully will restore more of the new car feel to an ol sagged out girl!
