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Where to Buy Wiring Supplies

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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:24 PM
  #16  
aj2494's Avatar
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From: Eastern Michigan
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I was thinking about going to a welding shop and having them do it, but that feels like a cop out. I have seen a few videos on where people suggest using a table vice (I don't have a vice or a table to put one on unfortunately), or even vice grips. My big pair might provide enough leverage. Then following up with solder should create a good connection. They don't have to be pretty, just functional. Everything's getting covered up by heatshrink anyways, so I don't care if there are jaw marks or something. I'll keep looking for tools to do this though so it's not so redneck.

Thanks for the offer chipmaker, but I'm in Michigan. Otherwise I'd be all over that.
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 01:37 AM
  #17  
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Soldering creates a cleaner connection than hammer-on, using the right amount of solder and a propane torch. Solder nuggets can be found for battery cable lugs and connections.

One problem when using welding cable is standard 1/0 battery cable lugs are usually to small for 1/0 welding cable. Welding cable has more strands and is a larger diameter than automotove 1/0 battery cable. What have done in the past is strip the welding cable insulation and additional strands with a sharp knife (such as a 3.5" camp/hunting knife), so they are able to fit standard 1/0 battery cable lugs.

There are battery cable lugs for 1/0 welding cable. https://www.fastenal.com/products/de...le%20Lugs%22|~

Here's a site with battery cable sets for the XJ plus wire, terminals, heat shrink and tools if making your own.

http://www.custombatterycables.com/

"Military" Battery Terminals, will hold additional cables ok, Some battery post terminals with top post studs, the wingnuts become loose. I usually need to apply loctite to keep the cables secured.

http://custombatterycables.com/parts..._terminals.htm


Last edited by Muddz; Aug 31, 2015 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 08:03 AM
  #18  
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From: west chester, pa
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https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/qu...e-lugs-163577/

Never had a problem with my cables, has been running them for 2 years now.
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #19  
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by chipmaker
Stay away from the hammer crimper, they suck. Trust me I speak from experience. You can get a manual crimper for cable that size but it cost around $700. If there is an electric motor repair shop in your area they should have a set and be willing to crimp your ends on the cheap. I'm on the app right now so I can't see where you're located, if your anywhere near me I'll do all your crimps for a 12 pack. Provided the cable is already cut to legenth.

Damn I didn't know the manual crimpers were that high but I bought mine quite a few yrs. ago.
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #20  
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From: Belton S.C.
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
Damn I didn't know the manual crimpers were that high but I bought mine quite a few yrs. ago.
I can't remember the name of the ones we have at the shop, they're supposed to be super precision. We make cables for explosion proof motors used in mining operations. We
have them calibrated twice a year.
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 01:34 PM
  #21  
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From: Monett, MO.
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Originally Posted by chipmaker
I can't remember the name of the ones we have at the shop, they're supposed to be super precision. We make cables for explosion proof motors used in mining operations. We
have them calibrated twice a year.

I'm sure mine are not that good but do meet national electrical standards for wire crimping.


I have a friend who has a crimper setup that came with a frame work, (hyd. jack you supplied), and a full set of dies he paid if I remember correctly about $475 for it but it works fine. The dies are what makes the setup so great made in Germany they crimp all the way around from just the single jack point of the 4 ton jack. Wish I had a photo of them to show so simple yet so complicated in design.


As we all know the wiring job is only as good as the poorest connection.

Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; Aug 23, 2015 at 01:43 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #22  
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From: USA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
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Default Crimping tool for occasional home use

Here's a less expensive hydraulic crimping tool. Comes with various dies for cable up to double aught. Some of reviews describe the dies as not crimping to the correct size and standards.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html

There are different qualities, prices and die sizes - Search for "Hydraulic Crimping Tool Kit "

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Ton-12ga-2-0-TEMCo-HYDRAULIC-LUG-CRIMPING-TOOL-KIT-reg-159-5YR-WARRANTY-/371418370131?hash=item567a429053
There's also this type of crimper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAVY-DUTY-CRIMPER-1-0-2-4-8-10-GAUGE-HEX-CRIMPING-WIRE-LUGS-TERMINALS-LARGE-NEW-/252019229595?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Last edited by Muddz; Aug 28, 2015 at 06:28 AM.
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 10:26 AM
  #23  
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From: Macomb,MI
Year: 2001
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I used these solder slugs and no need for expensive crimpers. Everything soldered and shrink wrapped for a good price. I use MAP gas in my torch, drop slug in, heat the fitting till solder melts, press in wire, let cool, put shrink wrap on, and done.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Termina...r-Slugs/p_1036
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 08:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by aj2494
I was thinking about going to a welding shop and having them do it, but that feels like a cop out.

That's not a cop out. That's a smart thing to do.

Vice grips? Bench vice?

That's NOT a smart thing to do. A proper hydraulic press puts TONS of pressure into that crimp. You can't come close to it with a hammer crimper, or any other makeshift tool, no, not even a drill press.

Soldering is fine for those who know what they are doing. That's not many people. It's easy to get it wrong.
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