Jrp910

what's up guys I have a 96 Cherokee and I want to lift it, I'm looking to run 33's plan on cutting/flaring the fenders, right now it's stock suspension and it's shot. Not to mention I boUght it with 31's and it rubs like a ***** sometimes. I was going to do the rough country 3.5 lift but I wold like to do the 4 if possible, I just want to know what I will need to lift it, like can I just buy this 4 inch lift kit and be set, or do I have to extend my drive shaft or anything else I will need? Here are the two kits I want to buy, i would like to go with the 4 inch but if I'm going to need a **** ton of extra stuff to do it I rather just go with the 3.5 inch I would like to keep it in the $500 range, any suggestions ?

Thabks for the help guys

Here are the two I was thinking about,

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-623n2.html

or

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-670x.html

Martlor13

You dont want rough country. Look into zone, rustys, or rubicon express. Also you will proabaly need an sye and new driveshaft. Not sure whatvallbthise kits come with but adjustable upper and lower control arms are good to have, sway bar quick disconnects, adjustable trackbar, extended brake lines, and to run 33 inch tires you may want to add in new gears as well.

BlueRidgeMark

Try the Modified section.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/

KaMoore

A jack.

Jeepification

Save up another $500 and get a decent kit with all the fixings.

Guywitha92

Don't forget jack stands

bad_idea

Beat me to it. Rats.

mo8414

Yup do like others have said and save up more money so you can get everything you need. If your going to do it, do it right. Regearing sounds like a good idea too with 33" tires.

bad_idea

Do some research on the forum. This is the MOST asked question. In a nutshell - Rough Country is cheap because it is cheap. You sacrifice quality and the longevity has been reported to be not so good. Buying the lift is the cheap part. After 2" there are a lot of supporting pieces you will need. 33s will need to regear, count on $1500 for that.

Jrp910

What if I decide to run 31's, what would be the highest lift I can do without doing the control arms and drive shaft and ect.

bad_idea

2" and 31s is the commonly accepted limit for minimal modifications. Coil spring spacers and longer shackles with a new set of shocks and you should be good to go. Whole setup shouldn't run more than $250. What is commonly called a 'Budget Boost'.

I'm at 5" and 33s w/ control arm drop brackets, lower control arms, slip yoke eliminator, regeared axles, adjustable drop track bar, drop pitman arm, and a list of minor items. I stopped counting cost. It's somewhere around $2000-2500, and I went the inexpensive route. I bought quality parts, shopping around and built what components I could (I work in fabrication) and did all of the install work myself.

xj_bill

x2, but maybe you can get away with 3" if you use tcase drop blocks to avoid doing a SYE


And you can probably do 2-3" with just front spring spacers and rear lift blocks+shackle drop boxes if you want to go really low budget.

Above 3" I think of like this:

up to 5.5": can get away with short arms and stock steering

over 5.5": open your wallet and buy long arms, OTK steering, relo your track bar into double sheer, etc...