redrilled mount?

 

No track bar drop bracket on the axle i forgot to mention before

 

6in lift with factory track bar? ??? Idk man whatever works for ya.

 

It does work for me an doesnt limit nothing after changing to re upper an lower control arms my front end it tight an it rides as good as stock.. now dont get me wrong im going to eventually up grade the track bar but to hear people say you cant you cant is bs cause i am

 

i don't understand how you don't have horrendous bump steer with stock steering (drag link) and a dropped trackbar...

 

Its got a little bump steer nothing to affect my driving had the same with my old xj with the 2.5 3 in

 

True, the driver's side does stick out more than the passenger side, but by less than half an inch. The look doesn't bug me, as long as the functionality will be ok.
Going to try the alignment myself this weekend, and see what we can do. Never tried it myself, so probably will take it to a shop to verify afterwards (dont want to ruin a new set of tires), but I do want to see if we can get it close and comfortable without adding longer lower control arms.

Thanks for the advice everyone, will let you know how it turns out!!

 

That much lift and factory track bar u will have whack tire wear. Trust me

 

This. Caster is key here.

 

I posted my alignment shops numbers elsewhere on the forum. Im at 5" with 16.5" lcas. Im got wandering on dips in the road. Ill post again here so you guys can double check me

 

Thay are here.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/che...gnment-152821/

 

well, the holiday season hit hard! Time became a crunch, and the wife was getting upset about how much time the son and I were spending on the Jeep (and not with her). So... appointment with 4 Wheel Parts next Friday to install the longer LCA's and do the alignment... cheaper than a divorce!

My son and I got distracted by the stereo he got for Christmas. While installing that, discovered we could start the Jeep without a key! He said the ignition switch never turned to the "lock" position, but the key came out anyway. In that state, I just grabbed the switch and turned, and it would start. So we got a new switch and changed that out.

The problem was, though, the cam and shaft running back down the steering column appears to have been hanging up on something and not letting the switch go all the way to lock. Jiggled it around some, that seems to have loosened it up, and now it goes to lock and the key comes out as normal. If anyone else has run across that, and has some advice on how to permanently fix it, would appreciate it!

thanks, Adrian

 

I have a 99 xj did a 3 inch OME lift adjustable track bar new shocks every thinf looks good had alighnment. It has wondered since. have asumed it needs more castor. Just havent done anything. I remember with the shop alighnment there wasnt much castor and they said it was all they could get. Have wondered about adding a longer lca and realighnment.

 

Skip 4 Wheel Parts. They sucked for me and provided a poor alignment after the lift they installed (poorly as well).

Take it to a specialized shop that has a dynamic alignment machine (as opposed to static).

 

sorry, but control arm length should not affect the ability of the truck to track straight. My control arms are slightly too short for the lift on the front of my truck, but even so it tracks straight and I can let go of the wheel at 70mph without the fear of a fiery death. I'd also like to point out that it's never been to an alignment shop - done with a tape measure in my driveway.

Bottom line - the toe needs to be set correctly (i use 1/8" toe in), and all the suspension components need to be tight. Both of which can be done outside of an alignment shop with hand tools and a buddy. Spending more on a "dynamic" alignment or 4-wheel alignment is pointless when the only adjustment that means anything on these trucks is front axle toe.