wandering xj
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
wandering xj
This is my first post and i would like you guys opinions on a problem. My xj is lifted 7.5 inches on 35's with 4.56 gears and a rubicon express 5.5 inch extreme flex lift kit with 2 inch spacers and a 2 inch add a leaf. All control arms, trackbar bushings are tight, upper and lower ball joints are new, just added one ton steering from seriousoffroad, had an alignment and ended up with 5 to 6 degrees of castor but it still wants to wander a little..the steering box is leaking fluid around the the pitman arm shaft could this be my wandering problem?? any ideas are greatly appreciated..
Last edited by Exocaged xj; 04-27-2016 at 09:38 PM.
#2
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Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
This is my first post and i would like you guys opinions on a problem. My xj is lifted 7.5 inches on 35's with 4.56 gears and a rubicon express 5.5 inch extreme flex lift kit with 2 inch spacers and a 2 inch add a leaf. All control arms, trackbar bushings are tight, upper and lower ball joints are new, just added one ton steering from seriousoffroad, had an alignment and ended up with 5 to 6 degrees of castor but it still wants to wander a little..the steering box is leaking fluid around the the pitman arm shaft could this be my wandering problem?? any ideas are greatly appreciated..
Mine is lifted 6" on 33's w/4.88's and Yukon lockers front and rear. I have the same problem. I've replaced Balljoints, Tierod ends ( serious off road 1" kit)
Steering stabilizer , and welded and drilled a new axle mount for the adjustable trac bar.
My steering box was sloppy and leaking and i figured maybe that was the problem. Replaced the steering box and the steering does feel tighter but it still wanders.
Only thing I have left to check is toe in, tire pressure with the yukon lockers and seeing if maybe I need to tighten up the UCA and LCA bushings abit.
I'm at a loss as to why it is wandering at the moment. Seems to wander more on rutted ,grooved highway way more than it does on a nice flat highway.
Anyone have any ideas?
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Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
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#6
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Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
The hole in the factory axle side mount for the trackbar was wallowed out.
I took a piece of 1/8" plate and drilled a new correct size hole in it then welded the plate to the outside of the factory mount. No more slop in the tracbar !
I took a piece of 1/8" plate and drilled a new correct size hole in it then welded the plate to the outside of the factory mount. No more slop in the tracbar !
#7
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i had a wandering issue twice on my big xj. lifted with 8 inch coils and rubicon express leafs with blocks and shackles.
first time was my steering box/frame mount. my frame was cracking around the bolt heads for the steering box. had my buddy at staangs fab beef it up with his world class brace they make specifically for xj's. made a huge difference. cleared it right up.
second time was my bias ply tires. they were getting worn. when the road was grooved, like when construction scrapes the top off, it was hard to keep it tracking straight. swapped out the tires and that was it.
so, maybe check your frame mount for your steering box, and maybe borrow tires from somebody to see if that might be the problem.
good luck.
first time was my steering box/frame mount. my frame was cracking around the bolt heads for the steering box. had my buddy at staangs fab beef it up with his world class brace they make specifically for xj's. made a huge difference. cleared it right up.
second time was my bias ply tires. they were getting worn. when the road was grooved, like when construction scrapes the top off, it was hard to keep it tracking straight. swapped out the tires and that was it.
so, maybe check your frame mount for your steering box, and maybe borrow tires from somebody to see if that might be the problem.
good luck.
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#8
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Year: 1999
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I agree with caged look at where the steering box is bolted to the frame for cracks between the bolts that hold it. If it has cracked get someone good with a welder to weld it up for you (heat is an issue doing this) then add a plate and brace to the steering gear box to stop the flex.
#9
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Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
I agree with caged look at where the steering box is bolted to the frame for cracks between the bolts that hold it. If it has cracked get someone good with a welder to weld it up for you (heat is an issue doing this) then add a plate and brace to the steering gear box to stop the flex.
I'm already running the plate brace on the outside of the frame that ties into my front bumper. I'm waiting on a JCR steering box spacer (should be here tomorrow) I'll check for cracks again when I put it on.
Whatever the issue is, it wasn't there when I first lifted and replaced all the steering components.( April) Whatever the problem is, it's steadily getting worse. The tires are almost brand new with about 1500 miles on them.
I checked air pressure this morning and they were all within 1lb.
Aired everything to an even 28psi.
#10
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
I'm at 6.5" on 15x12.5x35 bias plies. I've got about 5 degrees of castor (enough that before I dropped some pucks into it, I used to crush the bottom corner of my windshield washer reservoir!) If the tires are cold they wander ALL over the place. Once they warm up they aren't too bad, but you will definitely notice if the road has grooves in it. Big tires just LOVE to catch in the grooves.
The other culprit is toe out, though I doubt this is the case, as you said you just had an alignment done. If you come off the trail and have hit something to toe you out, it will wander all over the place.
The only solution I've heard of is to go hydro, either assist or full; everyone I know big tires who have gone hydro say the tramlining is gone, and they will never go back.
The other culprit is toe out, though I doubt this is the case, as you said you just had an alignment done. If you come off the trail and have hit something to toe you out, it will wander all over the place.
The only solution I've heard of is to go hydro, either assist or full; everyone I know big tires who have gone hydro say the tramlining is gone, and they will never go back.
Last edited by thebyus; 12-06-2016 at 02:46 PM.
#11
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Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
Engine: 4.0
I'm at 6.5" on 15x12.5x35 bias plies. I've got about 5 degrees of castor (enough that before I dropped some pucks into it, I used to crush the bottom corner of my windshield washer reservoir!) If the tires are cold they wander ALL over the place. Once they warm up they aren't too bad, but you will definitely notice if the road has grooves in it. Big tires just LOVE to catch in the grooves.
The other culprit is toe out, though I doubt this is the case, as you said you just had an alignment done. If you come off the trail and have hit something to toe you out, it will wander all over the place.
The only solution I've heard of is to go hydro, either assist or full; everyone I know on big tires who has gone hydro says the tramlining is gone, and they will never go back.
The other culprit is toe out, though I doubt this is the case, as you said you just had an alignment done. If you come off the trail and have hit something to toe you out, it will wander all over the place.
The only solution I've heard of is to go hydro, either assist or full; everyone I know on big tires who has gone hydro says the tramlining is gone, and they will never go back.
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If it is the alignment and you have it done again and all is good go home using guide on this forum measure with a tape measure and write the numbers down for a quick ref. that you can do yourself easily if it's out again.
My XJ has never been to a shop only a home done one.
My XJ has never been to a shop only a home done one.
#13
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Year: 1996 Heep XJ Country
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If it is the alignment and you have it done again and all is good go home using guide on this forum measure with a tape measure and write the numbers down for a quick ref. that you can do yourself easily if it's out again.
My XJ has never been to a shop only a home done one.
My XJ has never been to a shop only a home done one.
I used the straight edge strapped to the outside of the tire method.
I added 1/8" toe in.
Also pulled the steering box again to bolt in the JCR spacer. No cracks anywhere in the frame. Gonna test drive tomorrow.
Welded on some JCR LCA skids while I was under the front also. I dropped both LCA and the bushing were still nice and tight.
Last edited by Force; 10-09-2016 at 07:50 PM.
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I had my track bar, drag link, shock bushings, and LCA bushings replaced and it drove better, but still not perfect. Turns out the main culprit was not owning a jeep for 8 years and daily driving an S60R. haha