Upper shock bolt replacement brackets
#1
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Year: 2000 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8L Stroker
Upper shock bolt replacement brackets
Has anyone ever used these? They seem like a great idea. I was curious if anyone had any experience with them. Any drawbacks? Here is a link to someone selling them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKE...6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKE...6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
#3
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Location: southeast NC
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I made my own out of 3/4" x 1" steel stock drill tap bolt to shock hold in place tack remove shock and weld. the brackets are nice, how do they attach to the body?
#4
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
doing my 4.5" Rc lift i had to replaced the rear shocks. sprayed em with wd40 and the all snapped off, so i cut my carpet back, and used a hole cutter in the floor right above the bolts. drilled out the old ones, put new heavy'r bolts in and then plugged the holes in my rear floor and layed the carpet back down. it was a quick easy fix and works great
also if i ever need to replace the shocks again just pop out the caps and bam there the bolts are
also if i ever need to replace the shocks again just pop out the caps and bam there the bolts are
#5
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Year: 2000 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8L Stroker
That was my next plan. I just didn't really want to cut a hole in my floor.
It says they bolt through existing holes on the frame rail. I'll give a review when I get them and install them.
It says they bolt through existing holes on the frame rail. I'll give a review when I get them and install them.
#6
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
they probably do, i just didnt have the time or money to buy shock mounts, floor will be bedlined anyways so whats it matter? lol
#7
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not going to cut my floor board and add a place to leak! Yeah I read they mount to holes in body and then they recommend welding. The pieces I made were basically 1''x1.5''x3/4'' thick drilled a hole in the center tapped,then I mounted to the shock to get alignment correct and tack welded removed shock and finished the welds. very simple and allows easy shock replacement and only sacrificed 3/4'' of shock travel
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#8
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
I was able to knock out the broken studs I encountered when changing my rear shocks and was able to fish in new bolts from the top. I wrapped some thin gauge aluminum wire around the threads, fished the wire in and pulled the bolts through. I was able to work an open end wrench in there from the side access to hold them while I threaded the nuts on from the bottom to install TerraFlex bar pin eliminators. Not much space in the cavity between the shock mount and the floorboad but it can be done. I had both sides done in about an hour but wasn't in a hurry.
Last edited by iflyfish; 09-10-2012 at 08:58 PM.
#10
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Has anyone ever used these? They seem like a great idea. I was curious if anyone had any experience with them. Any drawbacks? Here is a link to someone selling them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKE...6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKE...6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Has anyone ever used these? They seem like a great idea. I was curious if anyone had any experience with them. Any drawbacks? Here is a link to someone selling them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKE...6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKE...6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
Screw it? Why??
#12
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I used the brackets off the rear sway bar. Does the same thing and FREE! All my top bolts broke in the rear. I used an air chisel to break the weld on the bolt and fished a bolt down through. It was easy and don't ever have to do them again!
Last edited by jeepin_xj; 09-11-2012 at 09:08 AM.
#13
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've been using them for about 3mo now. Great design and well built. Also I'm running the 2in design. It was a little challenging of an install with my fat fingers but was an easy install all in all. The install kit came with lock washers but loctite isn't a bad idea cause they loosened up about a month after the installl. Just tightened everything back up and good to go! Worth every penny IMO.
#14
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Year: 2000 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8L Stroker
I just said screw it because I didn't feel like farting around with rusty broken bolts in a tight space. It was worth 80$ not to have to mess with that. Seems like a great idea to accommodate a poor design. Glad to hear the good reviews, makes me feel like I made the right choice.
#15
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I was able to knock out the broken studs I encountered when changing my rear shocks and was able to fish in new bolts from the top. I wrapped some thin gauge aluminum wire around the threads, fished the wire in and pulled the bolts through. I was able to work an open end wrench in there from the side access to hold them while I threaded the nuts on from the bottom to install TerraFlex bar pin eliminators. Not much space in the cavity between the shock mount and the floorboad but it can be done. I had both sides done in about an hour but wasn't in a hurry.