I'm not an expert, this is common sense. This isn't like a sye which does vary from vehicle to vehicle, this is actual physics that as the axle drops further down, with a fixed length track bar, the axle is going to shift to the side. That's in cause with a standard tie rod track bar, is going to force the tie rod to be torqued to the side. This isn't knowledge of what I e done, this is common sense knowledge.

 

Not a Internet loud mouth, I will admit I might have read his post wrong but that doesn't cover the truth that he will need the track bar relocated. He didn't until now actually state he had tools. So with his statement of not having a lot of money, I'm giving him a realistic notion that its going to be more than just springs and more money as he first thought. I stand by what I say because I know physics and I know mechanics. To say that he won't get death wobble or worn suspension component with a stock track bar that hasn't been relocated is foolish and ill gladly say is dumb. I see enough on this forum and other of people who go half ***, and then complain or whine why it breaks down. Im just giving a realistic view. If money is a issue, then it's best to do it right the first time and so you won't be having to waste money later having to fix things that wouldn't have broke or worn down if it had been done right.



To the OP: now that you mention you have tools, yes you will need to relocate that track bar by drilling a new hole, won't be hard and to minimize wallowing out the hole, if you can get a buddy, weld a washer on to thicken the metal. If money is an issue, you can get by with just the rear shocks, front you would be fine. Also look in to the bar pin eliminators, you can do a junk yard version using the rear sway bar mounts from jeeps, It can help give you shocks a bit more length per say. Another option that would be cheaper and help on ride quality, get longer shackles instead springs. You could either get 1" leafs with 1" shackles or stock leafs with 2" shackle. Might help on drive line angle also.
Unless your caring a lot of weight or doing lots of jumping or off roading a bunch, you can get a way with not doing bump stops. Be weary of your oil pan and (if you have a tranny cooler) tranny lines(ask me how I know lol)

 

Lol man, you're just putting too much emphasis on the track bar thing. Tons of people have ran a stock track bar on 1-4 inches of lift. Obviously if you are into offroading you should be prepared to spend money on a new one. A lot of people can be perfectly fine just drilling the bracket hole over. Those that dont care about the shifted axle can even just leave it be. FYI plenty of aftermarket track bars use a tie rod end...In application things are not as extreme as you're making them sound.


P.S. you can still have steering alligned with an off center axle...

 

Yes aftermarket which the tie rod is centered because the track bar is of length. Force it to the side(to short or too long) then have it do usual suspension movements and it wears down quicker. And yes I'm pushing it because its a simple thing that people for some god awful reason seem to lack understanding of. As I said, he doesn't need a after market, he just needs to either drill a new hole or a longer track bar.
Regardless if you had a front end alignment, your track bar and axle are going to be pushed sideways and wear down quicker. Stop trying to make excuses, be smart, either drill or get a longer one for the appropriate lift.

Not trying to de rail your thread, trying to convey the need to do certain things right the first time instead of half assing.

 

So you're telling me that an inch difference on (just for example) a 36" track bar is going to make or break the effective operating angle of the TRE? We're talking a difference of like a couple degrees here man. The majority of difference is created by the lift itself.

 

Ok, so now that everything is cleared up, thanks demonoid. I think I understand. I did originally want to do a shackle lift, but as I read it they're illegal in my state...

 

What state is that?

 

And do you think any jackass at the inspection station is going to be able to look at your Jeep and say that your lift is illegal? let alone just a cop passing by?

 

disregard demonoid's posts too. just another internet loud mouth easily ignored.[/QUOTE]

yeah x2 hes an idiot lol i am at 4.5 and still have stock front shocks, ordering new ones this week but still did plenty of good hard wheelin with them, and have had 3 jeeps all which when i got them were running a stock track bar,YES it will wear faster but he is way too into it just not working, it will. and once you have a little extra coin go ahead and get a track bar

 

The great state of Maine, where we have a law that says no tires outside of fender flares and no tires over 2" from stock...that'd put me at like 31"s being the legal max...most people have "inspection tires" that they use on a certain day once per year...

 

Are you retarded and can't read? I didn't say he couldn't run stock front shocks, I told him he would be fine with that. And as he said he is tight on money wouldn't you want want to help him in the best way by telling him he needs to relocate his track bar so he can save up for other things? Or you going to be a douche and say its fine and have it wear down on him quicker than necessary and have to spend unnecessary money to replace the track bar? I'm just giving him the best way to do it while saving him hassle and money later, what are you doing?

 

Pro tip: front springs from a ZJ will give you a couple inches of lift. And then you can buy new stock leafs and just do a cheap add-a-leaf kit to jump up the rear. A junkyard is a great place to go, but if you don't have any near you, they shouldn't be too bad at a parts shop.