T case drop
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I 6
T case drop
I own a 2000 jeep cherokee 4.0 4x4 with 200000 miles on it and I am thinking about putting a 3 inch lift on it .. When I do I am wondering if I will need a transfer case drop kit to reduce my angle out of my transfer case ? Or is there another cost effective method to reducing u joint wear and vibration from sharp driveline angles
#2
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you are just doing 3", you might not need to do anything to the TC or you might be just fine doing a slight TC drop. Degree shims in the leaf pack might be another alternative.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Degree shims are used between the spring perch and leafs to correct the pinion angle. You want your pinion angle to be 1 degree below relative 0. This accounts for the rising of the pinion from acceleration. Doing a transfer case drop is cheap but it also puts strain on the motor mounts and front output angle. I would recommend an SYE because you may go higher in the future and the SYE will drastically reduce driveline angles making for a much smoother ride. Whatever you choose I hope it works for you.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Degree shims are used between the spring perch and leafs to correct the pinion angle. You want your pinion angle to be 1 degree below relative 0. This accounts for the rising of the pinion from acceleration. Doing a transfer case drop is cheap but it also puts strain on the motor mounts and front output angle. I would recommend an SYE because you may go higher in the future and the SYE will drastically reduce driveline angles making for a much smoother ride. Whatever you choose I hope it works for you.
Couldn't have said it better!
#6
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Year: three x 2001's
Model: Cherokee
I didn't do the t/c drop with my 5" lift but did the Hack'n'tap and used a double Cardin front shaft in my 2001 4.0L classic. Maybe I should use degree shims tho the vibs have been OK...... I blame the tires need a balance first
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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I have an SYE not a H&T with a custom built driveshaft and I still used shims on the differential. 4 1/2" of lift zero issues in driveline an SYE is always a good idea. The T/C drop kit also increases front driveshaft angles and is hard on motor and trans mounts. When you do the lift go with a full leaf/coil kit not an AAL one. A RR SYE can be found for $150 dollar range give or take paid $99 for mine on a special shipping included, don't expect to find a deal like that very often. Once done you will never have to worry about that issue again and know you did it properly the first time around.
You do know the 2000/01's have the weaker/less clearance low pinion LPD30 I guess? A lot of people swap them out for a 97-99 D30 the HP model. They have higher clearance and are stronger than the LP models.
You will need to install a new adj. track bar with that lift to keep the front axle adj. the same width on both sides of the Jeep.
FYI have a look at Rustys 3" full leaf/coil lift package all you need $430 I think they are. His springs are all American made (one of the very few) and the ride is good also been running one for over 3 yrs. now.
You do know the 2000/01's have the weaker/less clearance low pinion LPD30 I guess? A lot of people swap them out for a 97-99 D30 the HP model. They have higher clearance and are stronger than the LP models.
You will need to install a new adj. track bar with that lift to keep the front axle adj. the same width on both sides of the Jeep.
FYI have a look at Rustys 3" full leaf/coil lift package all you need $430 I think they are. His springs are all American made (one of the very few) and the ride is good also been running one for over 3 yrs. now.
Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; 04-13-2015 at 09:40 AM.
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