SYE or not
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1997 4.0 I6
SYE or not
I just went up another 2 inches from my previous setup, leaving me at around 5 inches with 31 inch tires, give or take a quarter or so. Ive heard and been told that with a 231 transfer, i can get away without the sye as long as i have a 1 inch transfer drop, (wich is in the mail), since my jeep doesnt see any trails, is street driven and no flexing (YET)!! Would this be right?? Can i do a hack'n -tap, use a front d-30 shaft and be set? I havnt seen hntap's advertised, where can i get one if needed??
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If u don't feel vibes and the driveshaft isn't sticking to far out of the slip yoke then leave it. I have an AA sye with a d30 front shaft and it works well with 6.5". I would determine this by the vibes but u also don't want ur driveshaft to pop out on the trails lol
#3
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
You can drive and 4wheel all day long with a 5" lift and a 1" TC drop and have little to no vibes. You can do a Hack n Tap SYE with a 5" lift and a OEM front XJ shaft will fit perfectly in the rear. Just make sure you get the shaft out of an XJ that is a 4.0 and auto tranny for proper length.
#4
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Year: 96'
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 160k banks header dumping after the cat
i'm in the same boat as you, i recently went up from 3 to 5''. i did the 1' drop and have no vibes at all, i've wheeled it a few times and have got 80 down the road with no noticeable vibs. i'd say you'll be fine...
#6
You can drive and 4wheel all day long with a 5" lift and a 1" TC drop and have little to no vibes. You can do a Hack n Tap SYE with a 5" lift and a OEM front XJ shaft will fit perfectly in the rear. Just make sure you get the shaft out of an XJ that is a 4.0 and auto tranny for proper length.
Its pretty hard to make those assumptions just because your jeep works that way.
It's been said countless of times though... some jeeps add a 1 inch spacer and get some vibrations, while others have gone 5"+ without even needing a T/C drop.
#7
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Ive been thru 3 options so far, each on improved over the last
1) 1" tcase drop. Easy to make and slap it on to get you thru a few paychecks to get something better.
2) better engine mounts that lift your engine. I bought some Ironman Offroad motor mounts cause stock motor mounts dont like it when you jump the jeep. It raised ~3/4 or something like that and doesnt work with a tcase drop b/c of alignment issues. No vibes and no drop.
3) SYE, either H&T or the expensive one. I still have the motor mounts but need a longer DS so why not a H&T?
1) 1" tcase drop. Easy to make and slap it on to get you thru a few paychecks to get something better.
2) better engine mounts that lift your engine. I bought some Ironman Offroad motor mounts cause stock motor mounts dont like it when you jump the jeep. It raised ~3/4 or something like that and doesnt work with a tcase drop b/c of alignment issues. No vibes and no drop.
3) SYE, either H&T or the expensive one. I still have the motor mounts but need a longer DS so why not a H&T?
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#8
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Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 4.0L
i am looking at going up from 3 to a 5 in lift and havent really put much thought in to a t/c drop kit is it really neccisary to do? or could i get away with out?
#10
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 firepower ignition, cat-back w/ magnaflow muffler, poweraid tb spacer, optima blue top
I've got a R.E. 4.5" system, but it looks higher in the rear to me maybe 5.5". The lift came with a t/c drop, I think 3/4", but after install had vibes so had to put in (I think 6°) shims to bring the pinion up.
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