krazynezz

With the use of an sye causing a change of the rear shaft to a double cardan, you want your pinion pointing almost straight at the tcase (a hair down is okay to compensate for axle wrap under acceleration). Fro. The sounds of it, your front drive shaft angles are probably pretty extreme and certainly need addressed as well.

Fred/N0AZZ

I had a 4x4 shop install my shims and they had an assortment on hand to get the differential level, different XJ's my require different shims.


Look at the bright side you gained 1" more clearance with removing the TC drop kit.

xj_sheepdog

Out of curiosity...would a control arm drop kit be beneficial for ones that don't necessarily want to run a long arm kit? This should enable proper angles and get the suspension back to operating properly taking the brunt of the force correct? Or am I thinking in a totally different area?

caged

benificial? yes. it is actually a must if you are above 5 inches and you don't go with long arms. the angle on the front drive shaft is ridiculous with short arms, adjustable or not.

xj_sheepdog

Ok. I was thinking it was a great option for short armers. I'm sure it will help keep that axle from oscillating as well. Too many just throw on a lift without thinking of drive line angle and the possible effects.

Martlor13

But why not just go with long arms if your at or above 4.5 inches? The ride alone is worth it

xj_sheepdog

Oh I couldn't agree with you more. However, some build on a budget. Like I currently am. Active duty, kids, wife without a job currently. You know...struggle budget haha. Back to the point. I bought an xj with prior mods to it. A kid had it. So, naturally no drop kit, no long arms, just a 6.5" with 35/12.5/20s on it to look "cute." I guess thats why they do that I'm not actually sure. But I opted for the drop kit at I believe $185 which will hold me off until I can purchase a 3 link. Right now getting rid of these flashy 20 inch wheels is a must and correcting other key issues.

Eric Wilson

I too, have some questions, if this isn't the appropriate place then I apologize. I recently bought a 00 xj with a 4.5 inch rough country lift. She's been daily driven for a while by a woman, both u joints in the front axle were gone, bushings worn out, etc.
My main concern was the rear of the Jeep was sagged, springs were straight, two leafs were broken, I hacked into the spring packs, replaced the broken springs and added another leaf to bring them back to life, also added a shim to compensate for pinion angle.. Now I have a vibration.. I do not have a sye, I believe I need one, I think there's two options as far as the Tc goes.. The hack n tap or buy the shaft and case. Can anyone give me advice or tell me what you're findings are? Thanks

caged

eric, your problem is most likely just because the rear most driveshaft u-joint is now spinning at a different angle, so it's groaning. if you change that joint, you should get rid of the noise.
you may still need a sye, but this will let you know. if you change the joint and it's all quiet, with no vibes, then you may just be fine without a sye.

some need a sye, some don't. my jeeps are at 4.5 inches and 7.5 inches and neither have a sye, although i do have a brand new sye kit on my shelf for when and if i do.

Fred/N0AZZ

An SYE is one of those things that is best done when you go over a 3 1/2" lift and many do them at the lower height. One thing for sure you will never go wrong with one, it's all good and you regain at least an 1" in clearance from removing the TC drop kit.


Be advised that the RC leafs are the cheapest made and known to sag and a rough ride, I would replace the rear leafs with a new set.


At 4 1/2" I also installed adj. upper and lower control arms to adj. the angles of the front differential and to place the tire in center of wheel well.

Eric Wilson

Thanks for the input guys, I've replaced almost the whole spring pack except the top leaf with the eyes with a superlift pack from the front of a ram charger, I had to play around a bit with the different combinations but I found what I wanted and it seems to ride good and not be too soft if I wanted to pull my trailer.. The springs were brand new and the 2nd leaf down is almost the same length as the factory one with the eyes. I will replace the u joint and post my findings. If I need a sye, what's the pros and cons for a hack n tap vs the actual kit? And what vehicles can I snag a double cardan from? I'm a mechanic for a living g and I have all the capabilities of fabricating, there's a driveshhaft shop next door so I'm not worried about that. Thanks

caged

if you have a 231, just go for the full kit.
if you have a 242, you can only use a hack n tap.

Eric Wilson

231, very familiar with this t case, I currently have a Dakota with two busted t cases in the bed, a new one on the way, and one in my Cherokee lol

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I've installed full SYE kits in 242's. Pretty sure it was a Tom Woods kit. I vividly remember reading the instructions on the first one I did and at one point it said "and this is when you'll drop all the roller bearings" and scoffed thinking I won't drop them. Continue disassembly and welp, I heard a shower of bearings fall and just began laughing as I picked them up. At least they tell you how many you're supposed to have so there is no guess work.

Fred/N0AZZ

The major drawback to a CA drop kit is the amount of clearance that you will lose off road. I wheel with a friend who has them on his short arm and it seems that about every good size downed tree we drive over he gets hung up on them. This applies to larger rocks also and he has bent them on at least one occasion.