I'am removing the sunroof, any advice on welding the patch in from a donor XJ.

 

Remove the entire headliner. Measure 5 times and cut once. Go slow.

 

Thanks TT for the advice.
What about the welding process?
Things like butt joint or lap joint.

 

Why not just leave it and seal it up with RTV well ????............then, IF it starts leaking, you can remove it and patch the roof.

I would get a set of flanging pliers, and flange the edges of the patch. Then install it from inside the jeep, so the flange is inside.......weld it up on top where the patch material meets the cut edge of the roof, and then stich weld on the inside where the outer flange lip meets the stock roof. Then seal the heck out of it with some body sealer.

You could then go back up top and add additional weld on the joint so you have enough to sand it down and get it reasonably smooth.



If you do it the other way, so the flange is on top, you won't be able to get the roof smooth again, and will always have water sitting on the new patch.



.

 

Plan b: Replace the electric with a manual sunroof kit.

 

Plan B won't work hole in roof i too big!

 

Not sure which donor you'd be using for the patch.. The factory sunroof panel has no ribs.. All non sunroof panels have the ribs..

 

Plan "c" done!

 

Not bad !!! That's certainly a quicker and easier solution that breaking out the welder..Glad to see it was a ribbed roof..That made the patch an easy one...

 

Funny thing ... I just posted in another thread the type of welder body shops used to use, and may still, to install patch panels. It makes jobs like this very quick and easy. I've used my Porta-Spot many times.

I like what the OP did here. Nice clean job on a very good looking XJ.

 

I have used a "Porta-Pot"

Seriously, I have a 220 Harbor Freight spot welder. It is very handy but limited reach.
How does the porta-spot work?? do the 2 contact points have to be exactly opposite? how do you line them up perfectly ?

Very interested.

 

Although they have other uses, they are designed so you can weld a patch panel for example without having to access it from the rear. You place the 2 pistol grips about 1" to 3" apart and side by side on the "top" sheet of metal and push the button that is on one of the grips. The 240V current flows through one of the tips to the other and you get 2 spot welds at the same time. You can move pretty quickly with this welder and the welds are both strong and look good.

I also have a portable spot welder like you have. You're right, with those the 2 tips effectively come together and weld through both sheets at once. Likewise, strong and good looking welds. I made a foot operated stand for mine that allows me to free up an extra hand to hold my material. It's great for smaller jobs. The welder is attached with 4 bolts so I can detach it for use in the traditional hand held way.

 

Very interesting on the "One Sided Spot welding"
I would have assumed if both "contacts" were on the top piece of sheet metal, the current (and heat) would travel the most direct path, which is between the contacts on the top sheet.
I am very interested,, as this would greatly increase the versatility of "Spot welding" for me. I see these machines online for around $200 used (just looked)

I love your stand,, That HF pinch welder is HEAVY

 

I understand your assumption and thought so too. I didn't know much about them when I bought it and after a bit of research I was glad I did. If you can get one for that price I'd jump on it. I bought mine used in the '80s. I had it checked out by a shop that sold them and they said it was in perfect condition. They also said that at the time they cost about $1,100 CDN (!!!) and it was mostly body shops that bought them. Weekend guys couldn't afford them. The guy nearly fell over when I told him I paid $50 for it. I got it at a garage sale. A lady was selling her deceased husband's tools. I asked her about it and she said it was an arc welder. I told her was a spot welder and she started to argue with me and wouldn't let up. She was quite nasty. I normally wouldn't do this to an old lady but I said ... "Fine, I'll take your arc welder".

The model after mine has 2 dials on the face. Mine has amps only while the newer ones also have a timer. My Brother who is a wiz with this stuff built a timer into mine. It sure beats holding the trigger while timing the weld in my head.

I totally agree with you on the hand held spot welders. Half the battle is getting it into position and then pulling down on the handle. They're HEAVY! I often thought a foot pedal of some sort might be a better idea. My Brother also built a timer for this one. It's in the metal box you see at the bottom of the stand. In the Porta-Spot he was able to hide most of it inside the cabinet.