01xjMontucky

Hello all, funny how when you think about a buying a bumper, the last thing you think of is your steering box (at least this was the case for me). Anywho - I got a bumper a few weeks ago and installed it, and let it rust for a few weeks while I waited for my prerunner to show up.
When it showed up - I had it welded - removing and reinstalling the bumper in the parking lot of the shop.
NOW - a few weeks later, I herculined it and had to wait 4 days for it to dry in the garage (its been maybe 50 during the day here in montana).
Got of work at 6 - reinstalled in the dark..
and then.. I stripped out the lowest steering box bolt. I drove around the block (about a mile) and it had backed out about a quarter inch.
I have to drive it to work tomorrow (about 7 miles), so I doused it in loctite and threw a socket in my glovebox.
Since it's the lowest bolt, and easily accessible should I:

rent a helicoil
tap to a bigger bolt and just go grade 8
or -- my preferred -- grind the steering box so that I can properly seat a nut on the outside of the box and go with a longer, slightly slimmer grade 8 bolt + lock nut.

I know it's not toooo crazy complicated and 60 bucks at the shop would probably fix it. It just seems like the bolt through + nut seems like an easy solution. I want to fix it with the box on the rig. Having never tapped threads or used a helicoil, I'm afraid I'd botch the job.


I briefly considered the durango upgrade, but removing the steering box seems like a PITA. Naturally, I could be wrong.

Teach me Oracle, so that I might see.

end story.. enter advice.. oh yes, and thanks, in advance.

(I did scour a bunch of threads, I just thought I'd beg a bit of advice from ya'll)

I put in advanced tech as I am talking about modifying the box + am open to durango upgrade, though I never plan on running more than 33's - current tires are 31/10.50

jomps

well i dont see why you couldnt nut the end and use a longer bolt....or upgrade boxes

01xjMontucky

Honestly - I'd rather save the 150 bucks for a steering box (and the effort to brake all those 10 year old bolts free) and buy some KC's for my new bumper.

It seems like a nut is a fine fix. If I can choose the right threads, I could probably thread through existing threads (whatever's left of them) and then nut the outside.
Stock is
7/16 course bolts 4 inches long, so a 5+ incher and I should be in the money -- story of my life

THANKS... love you guys when I need help.. If I posted half as much as I lurk on the forum i'd have 20k posts. Always appreciate it when I speak up.

gvns8

Just throw a longer bolt in with a nut and call it good or you could upgrade the box to a wrangler box or Durango box.

5-90

You don't exactly "rent" a Heli-Coil, since it's a part you install. However, this is usually the best solution.

If I were going to stress the steering box mightily, I'd also consider using overlength screws and using nuts as backup and locking devices (think "jam nut") with washers or purpose-built spreader plates if possible. Or, use LocTite and a cross-frame brace (clamps to the steering gear, screws to the opposite side of the front subframe.)

I seem to recall that there's not much room for a thread bushing without seriously weakening the part, and overdrilling/overtapping will remove as much material as the HeliCoil will - if not more - and be a weaker repair anyhow. Unless you machine a steering box out of wrought stock and forge it afterwards, a HeliCoil is about the strongest repair you can get (short of actually just welding the box to the frame.)