No, the pipe wrench idea is right. I used a pipe wrench to remove my rusted out studs. The pipe wrench will tighten around the stud the harder you turn it. Use PB blaster a day or two in advance and it will be even easier.

As for the one that snapped off, just drill it out. Get a drill bit that's like .050 smaller than the stud and drill right down the center. All that will be left are the threads which will fall right out. Then spray some brake cleaner in the hole and run a bottle brush through the threads, then anti-seize your new bolts. Don't forget split washers.

 

Ok I'll give those a try. I figured I could get it done in less than an hour but nothing with a Jeep is ever that simple. I ran out of time to keep messing with it because I had to get to class. I won't have time to look at it again until this Sunday or next weekend. In the mean time I'll let them soak in PB blaster for a while. The studs and the broken one are the issue. They all were coming out but the studs need to soak a little before I try and take them out.

 

Yeah, I misunderstood the extent of your problems. The pipe wrench works great on the studs. They need to come out and will be replaced with longer bolts needed for the TCase drop.
The busted head that left you with a flush bolt...can't help you there, luckily I didn't have that issue. I know some have, and there are various methods to fix it.

 

When in doubt, drill it out

 

Drill, keep it centered as much as you can. Try an EZ out. If it doesn't work, drill in increments, step up one size, drill, next size, drill, until you get close to the threads of the hole, then try to get the remaining bits out, and chase with a tap. If that doesn't work, drill it out completely, and use a nut and washer combo, attach the washer to the nut by welding, then put the nut, washer side facing out, in the hole. Weld in place. Instant nut-sert, carry on.

 

I'm gonna give this a try this weekend hopefully. Sucks working full time and going to school full time. No time for anything other than the weekend.

In the mean time, will it damage anything if I keep driving it like it is until the t case drop is in? the vibrations are from about 15 mph until around 70ish. They're the most shaky between 15 and 30. After 70 or so I can't "hear" them and can barely feel them. I'm hoping that this t case drop will fix it though because I have the 242 t case and the non-expensive option is to do a Hack N' Tap..but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

 

I'll see your full time employee and full time student, and raise you a wife and three kids!!
I only have time to s**t every other day!

 

Ha I have the wife and one kid at the moment. Only free time is Friday afternoon through Sunday. And that's if I don't have a drill weekend for the military. Then it's only Friday afternoon.

 

Getting ready to start this stuff tomorrow. One thing I was thinking is the leaf spring shims that came with the packs, I believe they may be 4* shims. I think they may be backwards. I know..dummy noob mistake. The thicker end is facing the rear. So obviously I should turn the shims around, or should I take them out since I'm doing a t case drop?

 

I watched this video and mine may actually be installed right. I just may not even need them. Not Sure what lift is on this one but he says he has a SYE as well.

 

When removing old bolts plenty of blast and work them back and forth. Never just try and spin them out in one cycle of turn . The built up crud from years of being there just binds up the threads causing breakage.

 

So I got the drop in this weekend and have been driving it for a few days seeing how it is now. The vibes are almost nonexistent but I can still tell there are still some around 20-30. But nothing compared to what they were before. I don't even really notice them unless I'm actually trying to listen for them.

I still have to drill out that bolt that snapped off. I didn't have the time to do it after installing a new oil pan and RMS and going to different part stores cause the first gave me the wrong seal, but that's another story.

I ended up leaving the shims in for now because after looking at it, the axle was likely to be in an even bigger bind if I were to take them out. Maybe as the new leafs settle in more the vibes will go away completely. If they don't then I will probably look into a SYE. However, I have the 242 t case and a Hack n Tap seems to be the only decent option. All others seem to be way too pricey.

 

So caged, what you're saying is that the old driveshaft u-joints are no longer suitable because of the new lift and hence the new driveline angle right?
I am also experiencing the same humming/vibe issue as is Jooman after a 3" lift install y'day. As with him, my rig starts vibing at or around 22 mph or so and then seems to quiet at around 50 or so mph. So would you say that you'd replace both front/rear u-joints on the driveshaft or only one? Then if still no result look into a TC drop and possibly loose leafs?

 

So caged, what you're saying is that the old driveshaft u-joints are no longer suitable because of the new lift and hence the new driveline angle right?
I am also experiencing the same humming/vibe issue as is Jooman after a 3" lift install y'day. As with him, my rig starts vibing at or around 22 mph or so and then seems to quiet at around 50 or so mph. So would you say that you'd replace both front/rear u-joints on the driveshaft or only one? Then if still no result look into a TC drop and possibly loose leafs?
One thing I was also thinking about (and I don't recall if I did this or not, I remember noticing when the leafs were off) maybe I reinstalled new leafs incorrectly with the small and large looped bushings on the front and back reversed, I remember one was smaller and the other larger. Don't recall, but seem to remember that the large leaf bushing side s/b on the front and the small side on the back, going to look at that now.

 

yeah, you may be able to get away with just replacing the joint at the t-case. but don't be surprised if you need to replace the diff joint soon after.