I mean, lets think about this.

You've got the radius arm setup. Its a double Y, one Y one each side. The two points are attached to the axle, in a fixed configuration, and only one attachment at the body side. Thats alot of load on one joint.

Thats not even addressing the more complex suspension geometry issues that are there because of how the upper link is attached to the lower link.

Again, yes, they work. But there are better options.

And dont get me wrong, either. I'm not an expert who knows everything about everything. I'm just pointing out the facts.

 

In your opinion what would be the better set up for long arms? Are there any long arm set ups that have more than one mounting point to the body on both sides?

 

Well now I'm just flat out curious. You sound like you've spent some time thinking about this, so I'd definitely like to hear your thoughts on a better setup. The configuration of the RC, Rustys, and serious long arms all seem to be about the same. I do see a better setup with the serious longarms based on materials and their TC skid plate that's part of the cross member.

I have looked into IROs longarm which is a 3 point setup, which I've heard mixed reviews due to the extra load with not using the fourth link, which is passes onto the remaining three points of connection.

 

The one joint is fine, you're not gonna blow that off the body. And 90% of people won't notice or care about the bind, antisquat or caster change during travel.

Three links are better, no bind. Four links bind but work well too. Both of those have inherently better geometry.

 

The only setup that I've seen with more than two connection points at the body, is a short arm setup. The location of these four points of a short arm connection has proven to do far more damage to the unibody than the two points of a longarm setup. Maybe, if the Cherokee had an actual frame the four points of the short arm wouldn't cause soo much damage. But either way, it is a known fact that a longarm setup improves handling on any vehicle, while a short arm setup is more likely to make handling worse.

I'm not claiming to know all the facts, this is just from what I've read and what I've noticed going from stock, to short arms, then to long arms.

 

Ideally I would like to go with a 3 link (3 separate arms, no Y link) and a panhard bar.

Mostly because this will help eliminate clearance issues with the front DS and exhaust that one would run into with a true 4 link.



Don't forget the unloading during hill climbs.

 

 

Oops. Didnt catch that.

I'll still stick with the fact that radius arms are the low end of the long arm setups.

And you cant deny it.

So make all kinds of cute smilies all you want.

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/4-link-worth-119446/


Here is a great thread for info on the differences between setups and a bit about the pros and cons of them.

 

In a 3 link you only have 1 joint holding the axle in its castor position.... the stress comes down to one joint either way by your satatment, just saying. But yes there are better options.

But at the end of the day ONLY buy the RC kit if you Also buy the Clayton(or other) joints... you WILL be replacing them a few times for the first year, then buying them as they only have a 1 year warranty.

I like my RC kit other then the joints. I have never had issues with flex, unloading or any other problems other then blowing threw joints half way threw the first trail on the new bushings.

But I would also reccomend a 3 link if you can afford it, I will probably be reduing my fornt LA's to a 3 link in the next year or two...

 

The whole assembly is still attached by 3 separate arms mounted in 3 separate places.

Again, I'm not an expert, but a radius arm is still less favorable than a true 3 or 4 link.

And thats the main point I wanted to make. Most folks may not realize there are better options out there being that most settle with the radius arm becaue "most people don't notice the flaws and issues."